NEWS

Do not top rope directly in the anchor
Geir Evensen has published this picture on Facebook in order to educate climbers NOT to top rope directly in the anchor.

Wash your rope and increase its lifespan
Cosmin Andron has published a detailed article in regards to washing the rope and increasing its lifespan. Ii is interesting is that Tendon has actually developed a specific detergent. "Spring is here and it's the best time to check your climbing bag and do some cleaning. Rope is a textile product and it's possible to wash it in the washing machine or by hand. It not only removes all the dirt but it also prolongs the life span of the rope. The water temperature should be set between 30 - 40ยฐC and instead of common washing powder a special rope cleaner should be used for safe washing without changes in rope parameters. The rope should be dried properly in a dark place protected from direct sunshine and away from heaters."

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In 2004, Dave MacLeod made tha FA of Rhapsody and with 8c and E11 iw was a contendor for the hardest trad route in the world. The fame was also based in the video which really showed his commitment and how dangerous it was. Dave actually said it could be potentially deadly. Later it was repeated by several people, everyone of whom said it was not dangerous if you instead used dynamic belay. The grades were also questioned as well as the fact that it was an elimination. Jacopo stays away from all this and just says that he is so impressed by Dave, who put it up.

Climb Kalymnos, which just recently reported that Ryan Air will stop flying to Kos in 2017, comes with more bad news. Olympic Airlines will as of tomorrow stop flying from Athens to Kalymnos. It is said that Astra Airlines will take over but reduce to three flights a week until 2020. It seems that the best climbing destination will get even better soon as it will get less crowded but how to get there in the prime season as the charter companies mainly fly from mid May to September? Here are some low price airlines alternatives (as of 2016 but it does not fit Kos airport info): Easy Jet did fly to Kos from Milan, London and Glasgow this year; Vuelving from Rome; Air Berlin. Anyone who have some further tips how to get to Kalymnos in 2017?

Do not miss one of the greatest competition videos ever presented.

The first 8C+ suggestion was done by the former World Champion Mauro Calibani for his FA of Tonino 78 in 2004. Later it was downgraded and that is also the case for most of the 20+ boulders which were given 8C+. However, during the last years, it seems that we have gone from grade inflation to grade deflation. As it stands, excluding Traverses and contrived Boulders, only Guillaume Glairon-Mondet and Daniel Woods have put their neck out proposing 8C+s for FAs. Daniel first for The Process in 2015 and later he upgraded Hypnotized Minds from 2010 and yesterday for Creature from a Black Lagoon. Guillaume's has later been given a personal grade. The first and only 8C+ suggested upgrade, after a repeat, was done by Adam Ondra for Gioia in 2011. Talking to several of the best boulderers in the world during the last years, examples of potential upgrades have been forwarded, based on their trying hard without success. Is it not kind of strange that 15 years after the first 8Cs were done, only Daniel Woods, Adam Ondra and Guillaume Glairon-Mondet think they have reached a new level?

Second 9a by Jakob Kronberger (15)
Jakob Kronberger, who did his first 9a last year, has done the FA of Die rechte Hand 9a in Salzburger Land. In the new Age & Gender Bonus ranking game, the 15-year-old is #5 overall in the world. "The route is an old project of Klem Loskot. Its a short bouldery route with 10 hard moves on small holds. The route is just a part of a superhard project. After the 9a is over, there is a boulder which is for shure 8B but it should be possible for stronger climbers. There isn't a possibility to rest in the route. It would be very interesting how hard the whole route is. Maybe 9b but I can't really tell how hard it exactly is because I am not even able to do all the moves of the upper boulder. If anyone is interested in the route, feel free to contact me."

8c+ (b+) MP by Roland Hemetzberger
Roland Hemetzberger comes with the great news on Instagram that he has repeated Alex Huber's multi-pitch Nirwana, giving a personal grade of 8b+, instead of 8c+.