29 September 2016
We need more 8C+s - including upgraded 8Cs
The first 8C+ suggestion was done by the former World Champion Mauro Calibani for his FA of Tonino 78 in 2004. Later it was downgraded and that is also the case for most of the 20+ boulders which were given 8C+.
However, during the last years, it seems that we have gone from grade inflation to grade deflation. As it stands, excluding Traverses and contrived Boulders, only Guillaume Glairon-Mondet and Daniel Woods have put their neck out proposing 8C+s for FAs. Daniel first for The Process in 2015 and later he upgraded Hypnotized Minds from 2010 and yesterday for Creature from a Black Lagoon. Guillaume's has later been given a personal grade.
The first and only 8C+ suggested upgrade, after a repeat, was done by Adam Ondra for Gioia in 2011. Talking to several of the best boulderers in the world during the last years, examples of potential upgrades have been forwarded, based on their trying hard without success. Is it not kind of strange that 15 years after the first 8Cs were done, only Daniel Woods, Adam Ondra and Guillaume Glairon-Mondet think they have reached a new level?
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


