Fred Nicole, the leading boulderer some 20 years ago, has put up Chakija in Rocklands saying it is between 8B and 8C. Here his full story from Instagram. "What a crazy week! The last climbing day in the #Rocklands I managed to climb this line on the beautiful orange wall just left of "Stalker" - I was looking at it more closely since my last visit there in May. It is a beautiful orange wall with quite a few strange moves, that took me a while to figure out. I named it "Chakijana", a Zulu storyteller tells it is a meercat, others a hero of their culture... I just liked the sound of it. As for the grade it is difficult to say as I can imagine it sticks better with really cold conditions; it should be around 8b/c - time will tell! In the meantime I was back in Switzerland for a few days and I am now in China! I hope for a great winter bouldering season when I get back to Zurich!"

Mr Kalymnos, Aris T, has said that Kyparissi, located an hour south of Leonidio, has also the potential to be a new world class destination with very high rock quality. Here you will find some more info and the updated Free Topo including almost 200 routes. After the Leonidio Climbing Festival 10-13/11, climbers are invited to try out Kyparissi.

The new sector Arginonta Valley, developed mainly by Aris Theodoropoulos and Claude Idoux, has become possibly the most popular sector in Kalymnos. The approach takes five minutes, and the crag is very well protected, both the long vertical easier routes and the short steeper routes around 7a are of high quality and located in the shade. This was the best addition the island could have had and it might be possible to open some shorter and even harder routes to the left. More info and a Left>Right Topo. There are already some 200 ascents in the 8a data base and Diagora 7a has been ticked 20 times.

Laura Rogora has made her first 8b+ flash, Grazie in La Fortezza. "After the warm up the idea was to try the moves of this 8b+, but when I did the first hard move I decided to try it flash. Thanks to Enrico's beta, and after a hard battle I was able to reach the chain. I was so happy!" The picture, taken by (c) Pietro Migliorati, is from the 9a project, Tomorrow Land in Collepardo. The 15-year-old has previously done one 9a and she is also the reigning Italian Champion in both Lead and Boulder. She is #1 in the 8a female ranking game as well.

Chris Sharma reports on Instagram that he has repeated Joe Mama 9a+ in Oliana, which was bolted by Joe Kinder but Klemen Becan got the FA. (c) Ricardo Giancola "At first a route that I underestimated, it turned into an epic battle that got the best of me. So refreshing to come back this season with an open mind and no expectations other than to just enjoy climbing. Maybe it was in my head or maybe it was all the training with @patxiusobiaga_pucseries last summer."

Kajsa Rosén, who has been in the Top-10 in three World Cups and onsighted an 8c, has done two 8cs in Gorges du Loup. (c) Anders Terlongo "I enjoyed my trip to Georges du Loup a lot. We spent most of our time at the Deverse sector, which offered overhanging routes on tufas and pockets. I like that the shade and wind makes it possible to climb even in summertime. However, what I liked the most about Georges du Loupe was the locals- they were all very kind and helpful! Next up is the Swedish championships and then also the Junior world championships in China. I've just set up a plan for the nearest goals ahead and I'm extremely psyched on doing some hard and structured training again!"

Alex Khazanov has done Underground 9a in Arco. "Glad to have made my first, and Israels first 9a ascent! It was a crazy battle for me. It was the first sport rout I have climbed since February and to say that I was lacking indurance would be an understatement. The progression came with every go, until one time, after a big mental challenge, I clipped the anchor. Even though I mostly (or just) boulder, climbing 9a was a little dream of mine. Well, here it is, and it's the first one of my country!!! Psyched out of my mined right now!"

Roger Schaeli, one of the best and toughest big wall climbers out there, had a presentation at the Kalymnos Festival about his ground-up FA of Oddyssee on Eiger. He started the big project back in 2009 and it actually involved building a small house next to the big wall. After the slide show we had a discussion on how the media should explain the difficulty of the 1 400 metre long route beside saying that the hardest pitches were 8a+. In practice, he agreed that it could be possible to actually try and give overall grades for such routes in order to explain and present them to the media and climbers. As he has done 8cs pretty quick it might be more fair to compare Oddyssee with a 9a route. - The 8a+ grade might not be so impressive but the adventure grade is. We could gather a group of experienced big wall climbers and try to set up a way to explain an overall grade difficulty system. Another subject was ethics and how some guys actually used cheating stick when going for a big wall. - As long as you are honest about your style, everything is fine. But surely, it is not the same adventure to stick clip your way up instead of taking long falls.

Matteo Menardi has done his second 9a, Welcome to the Club in Campo, which actually his father bolted in 1982. "Second ascent after Luca Zardini Canon's FA in 2009."

Joe Kinder, who did his last 9a over three years ago, has done his sixth by Planet Garbage in Rifle. "A route I bolted in 2013. Tried the 9a exit last year and loved it. Returned this June and couldn't take it seriously due to its wetness and my fitness. I came home, trained and returned. Completed it in my two week allotment. Stoked as fuck."