NEWS

Thor's Hammer 9a (+) by Magnus Midtbรธ
Magnus Midtbรธ has done Thor's Hammer 9a (+) after some 15 days of work on the 55 metre long upside-down monster in Flatanger. Magnus bolted it in 2011 and then Adam Ondra got the 9a+ FA. Later an easier sequence was found and Magnus has decided to say it is a very hard 9a like Ondra and Seb Bouin. (c) Matthew Moore McMahon "I went to Flatanger two times this summer for working on it. This trip I did it already on the fourth day. I still had the moves dialed from the summer and the friction was much better. This winter I plan to travel to Spain several times. We are just about to open a new climbing center in Oslo and that will take some time. What about competitions and the Olympics? No plan but most probably I will compete some more but just not now. Olympics within four years is absolutely one alternative. Even if I am not a fan of the format I think it is a good start.

8c DWS for Jernej Kruder and his Es Pontas challenge with Hojer
Jernej Kruder, one of the best all-rounders with his activity ranging from Bouldering comps to multi-pitches, comes with great news on Instagram. ยฉ Kerstin Helbach "Baam! Yesterday I stucked the dyno once again :) but this time decided to finish in direct finish named Pontax 8c. @chris_sharma opened this line a year before he sent Es pontas, so it must be a second ascent after 11 years. Luckily I feel more comfortable on dyno now, so I started working on original line. Together with @janhojer we're getting higher now and I think we have equal chances of success. So there is no battle for second ascent, cuz after 10 years, few days wouldn't make any difference. Let's hope the waves calm down and we can be back in the game.

Fanatic Climbing has got some comments from Alex Megos after his FA of Supercrackinette 9a+ in St Leger. "It took me 3 days and I think it's 9a+. About the sends in the East face, I did l'Enfumette but I think it's 8c+ (originally graded 9a by the man who did the first ascent Kevin Aglaรฉ). Took me 4 tries. I did as well too "Concept Extension", 8c+."

8th 8C FA by Dave Graham
Dave Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, reports on Instagram that he has done an unexpected FA of Topaz 8C in RMPN/Wild Basin. The first 8C FA by Dave Graham was The Story of 2 Worlds, which has become one of the most famous Boulders in the world. "This boulder is somehow long-winded; it begins with some strange technical footwork and a tedious set up for a punchy frontal divisive move to a pinch, the gateway to the last precarious sequence of foot moves and hand shifts and mini bumps. I had no clue I would end up on the top the try I actually climbed it, in a really rare rock climbing moment, tension and nerves through the final sequemce were toned down as each move I completed, I genuinely thought I was falling and about to slip off every move of the final sequence. AMAZING."

8B-C FA by Fred Nicole (46) in Rocklands
Fred Nicole, the leading boulderer some 20 years ago, has put up Chakija in Rocklands saying it is between 8B and 8C. Here his full story from Instagram. "What a crazy week! The last climbing day in the #Rocklands I managed to climb this line on the beautiful orange wall just left of "Stalker" - I was looking at it more closely since my last visit there in May. It is a beautiful orange wall with quite a few strange moves, that took me a while to figure out. I named it "Chakijana", a Zulu storyteller tells it is a meercat, others a hero of their culture... I just liked the sound of it. As for the grade it is difficult to say as I can imagine it sticks better with really cold conditions; it should be around 8b/c - time will tell! In the meantime I was back in Switzerland for a few days and I am now in China! I hope for a great winter bouldering season when I get back to Zurich!"

Kyparissi - Updated Free Topo
Mr Kalymnos, Aris T, has said that Kyparissi, located an hour south of Leonidio, has also the potential to be a new world class destination with very high rock quality. Here you will find some more info and the updated Free Topo including almost 200 routes. After the Leonidio Climbing Festival 10-13/11, climbers are invited to try out Kyparissi.

Arginonta Valley on Kalymnos - The best of the best
The new sector Arginonta Valley, developed mainly by Aris Theodoropoulos and Claude Idoux, has become possibly the most popular sector in Kalymnos. The approach takes five minutes, and the crag is very well protected, both the long vertical easier routes and the short steeper routes around 7a are of high quality and located in the shade. This was the best addition the island could have had and it might be possible to open some shorter and even harder routes to the left. More info and a Left>Right Topo. There are already some 200 ascents in the 8a data base and Diagora 7a has been ticked 20 times.

8b+ flash by Laura Rogora (15) and going for 9a again
Laura Rogora has made her first 8b+ flash, Grazie in La Fortezza. "After the warm up the idea was to try the moves of this 8b+, but when I did the first hard move I decided to try it flash. Thanks to Enrico's beta, and after a hard battle I was able to reach the chain. I was so happy!" The picture, taken by (c) Pietro Migliorati, is from the 9a project, Tomorrow Land in Collepardo. The 15-year-old has previously done one 9a and she is also the reigning Italian Champion in both Lead and Boulder. She is #1 in the 8a female ranking game as well.

9a+ in Oliana by Chris Sharma
Chris Sharma reports on Instagram that he has repeated Joe Mama 9a+ in Oliana, which was bolted by Joe Kinder but Klemen Becan got the FA. (c) Ricardo Giancola "At first a route that I underestimated, it turned into an epic battle that got the best of me. So refreshing to come back this season with an open mind and no expectations other than to just enjoy climbing. Maybe it was in my head or maybe it was all the training with @patxiusobiaga_pucseries last summer."

Two 8cs by Kajsa Rosรฉn (19) in Gorges du Loup
Kajsa Rosรฉn, who has been in the Top-10 in three World Cups and onsighted an 8c, has done two 8cs in Gorges du Loup. (c) Anders Terlongo "I enjoyed my trip to Georges du Loup a lot. We spent most of our time at the Deverse sector, which offered overhanging routes on tufas and pockets. I like that the shade and wind makes it possible to climb even in summertime. However, what I liked the most about Georges du Loupe was the locals- they were all very kind and helpful! Next up is the Swedish championships and then also the Junior world championships in China. I've just set up a plan for the nearest goals ahead and I'm extremely psyched on doing some hard and structured training again!"