5 November 2016
Adam Ondra tops out the Dawn Wall
Adam Ondra comments on his Black Diamond blog that he has topped out the Dawn Wall after two more days on the wall. National Geographic has also presented an interview with Adam. (c) Heinz Zak
โIt has been a productive 48 hours on El Cap. After the first night and โclimbingโ pitch 15, I rested the whole day, slept as much as possible and at 10:30 p.m. we set off. The first thing I wanted to do was send pitch 16, which did not work outโsoon after getting up I was not feeling very well. But I didnโt give it more tries and continued. Above us, there was untouched terrain (untouched by us). I led (with a few falls) the remaining four pitches up to the Wino Tower in the dark, finishing at 5:30 a.m. All these pitches in the 5.13c range felt quite good.
โFrom Wino Tower we faced 11 more pitches and around 400 meters of climbing. Even though the hardest pitch is only 5.13a, there are some bold pitches too with fairly loose rock. I felt pretty good, and onsighted all pitches except two where photographer Heinz Zak made me stop. I was extremely happy to onsight the 5.12b flare (worst version of offwidth) three pitches below the top. By 2:30 p.m. we were on the summit. This ground up ascent made fixing the ropes justified (according to our ethics), so now the whole line is fixed with ropes and easy to work.
โNow we are down in the Valley, recovering and getting ready for more work on the wall, especially pitch 14 (first traverse) [5.14d] and all the pitches below.โ
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European Youth Series - Imst
1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL
1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
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Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!
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25 March 2008
Ondra does something hard, again...
Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+.
A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโฆ
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Adam Ondra has done two 8c+'s in Frankenjura, Planets Collide and Matador which Markus Bock put up in 2007 and suggested 9a for. Adam says, "in my opinion more 8c+ than 9a, but others should feel free to say more about grade". He also did Showdown, 8c "Stiff grading from nineties, I was very lucky".โฆ
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European Youth Series - Imst
1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL
1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT
Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!
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