Dylan Chuat has completed Supercrackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger. ”And bam, the little Supercrack fell!! Followed by a pretty crazy session with two 8cs on the first try and an 8a on sight. Have a lovely day!”

The routes the 24-year-old refers to having done second go are Rêve de poutre (8c) and La tournée du patron (8c).

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
I had tried this route a bit back in the day, but I wasn’t strong enough and never came back to try it again until now. To send it, I came for two weekends and then two more days this week.

Allison Vest, with 14 boulders 8B and beyond under her belt, has completed The Fish-Eye Effect (8B) in Red Rock (NV). ”Took a lot for me to execute this one. The “big boy boulder” journey continues!” (c) Jon Glassberg Louder Than 11

What do you mean by ”big boy boulder” and how many sessions did it take?
In a similar vein to Booka Booka Booka (8B), Fish Eye suits the 6 foot [180+ cm] tall male climber the best because of its big spanned moves. I’m sort of on a mission to try and use my 6’2 span more and tackle some of the boulders that don’t have female ascents yet, partially because the size of the individual movement on them.

It can be a frustrating time working on these boulders because, while my arms are long, my legs are short haha so I have to find my own beta.

How tall are you?
I am 169 cm and my wingspan is 188 cm. Doing pull ups is so much harder with long levers hahaha.

Eva Hammelmüller, who last weekend sent her second 9a, has done Blanquita (8c+) in Oliana in just two sessions. ”Long moves in the first part on good holds, long moves in the second part on pretty bad holds :D I really enjoyed this route, yet my skin was not so keen at first (checked it out in the sun, though, which was't my best idea in hindsight). Returned two days later without much better skin but without sun as well, was told better beta (thanks so much again!!) and managed to send the route next go! SO PSYCHED.”

Over the last seven climbing days, the 24-year-old, has ticket a total of ten routes 8a+ and beyond including the epic flash of Mon Dieu (8a+) also in Oliana. ”This was CRAZY. Thought I'd be fast enough and didn't need a headlamp, but it turned out the sun was faster than me, and I had to feel rather than climb my way up the last 15 meters. Thanks Felix for guessing pretty well at which move I was and telling me roughly where to go. Big fight and race against the dark!”

How can you best explain being in your very best shape if your life?
This winter, my main goal was to focus on power and finger strength. However, I struggled quite a lot with colds and being sick the past few months, which is why my training quantity was pretty low. Due to this, I had to rest a lot, but maybe that had a positive effect on my max power (not on my endurance though haha). When we started our trip, I felt strong physically, and I was just SO much looking forward to rock climbing. After a few days of getting incredibly pumped, my endurance also came back, and I think the combination of these factors enables me right now to climb some pretty sick lines!

Martina Demmel, who last month adressed that she has been dealing with eating disorder for ten years, has on her second go sent both Rock fucks (8b+) and Rollito Sharma Ext.1 (8c) in Santa Linya. ”Kneebar-beta to make the top less risky;) slowly finding my flow in that style here!” (c) Vera Bakker

Can you tell us more about the trip?
We've got about 2 weeks in total to adapt to the athletic style in the cave because with our national selection comps for the WC's, there wasn't more "free" time. I'm slowly getting the necessary confidence to find my flow in those powerful moves and it's been a sweet reward to send the whole line so quickly while also making good progress in the main projects...

It's also been cool to see that I could do several dynamic & powerful moves now which I couldn't do 3 years ago... I'm pretty sure that it's connected with not giving myself enough energy back then. Such a good feeling to feel stronger now with an higher weight.

Yannick Flohé has repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Story of Three Worlds (8C+) in Cresciano. It is a left stand start, including a possible no-hands rest, to the classical The Dagger (8B+). The 25-year-old has previously done three 8C’s and last year he did his first 9a+ route. (c) Max Raeuber

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’ve tried Story 3 in 2022 for one session and figured out the crux move pretty fast. somehow I never came back until this year. After new years I tried for two sessions and linked the no hand rest into the dagger a couple of times but the first two moves are the main crux for me. There’s a hidden toehook for readjusting the right hand after the first move but somehow I couldnt figure it out so I came up with another beta. This trip I came back ant sent on the first day. Also warmer conditions made a huge difference for me as I can’t climb in the cold. In the end I didn’t use the nohand rest because I was afraid of slipping and falling onto my head while resting 😅

What are your plans for 2025?
Focus more on lead my main project outdoors is ratstaman and I want to be in shape for the lead worldcups I’ll take a break from bouldering it’s too much of a headache for me but I hope I find my psyche for next years boulder worldcup season. Nevertheless I’ll compete in one or two cups in Europe like Innsbruck or Prag.

In 2019, the German won the bronze in the Boulder World Championship and in 2021, he became the Combined World Champion. The year after, he won the World Cup in Brixen. Last year he was #9 in the Paris Olympics.

Elias Iagnemma, who the last month did the FA of The Big Slamm (9A), reports on Instagram that he has repeated Jimmy Webb’s Ephyra (8C+) in Chironico. (c) Alessandro Rinaldi

The 29-year-old Italian has sent close to 20 boulder problems graded 8C and harder, placing his ticklist among the most impressive in the world.

How do you compare the difficulty of Ephyra and The Big Slamm?
The six hardest moves on The Big Slamm, 35 sessions, is harder or equally hard as the hardest on Ephyra which took me nine sessions.

What is next?
Spots of Time (9A) in England, if the weather is good next week. Otherwise I will go to Chironico and try Vecchio Leone Sit (8C+) or Alphane (9A).

Chris Sharma made the FA of Sleeping Lion (9b) last year. "The route pushed me in many ways. Physically of course but also mentally and emotionally. It’s one thing to feel capable of something but it’s a whole other thing to restructure your life around an objective like that and bring it into reality. It’s definitely more challenging balancing all the elements of life these days but climbing is such a grounding activity for me so it felt really good to make the time for this.

Specifically though the last hard move of the route, move #54 or something…. I fell off there 16 times over three months. So there was a big psychological element in being able to endure that and not lose hope. Very happy it finally clicked."



Chris started making headlines at age 14 when he won the USA nationals in 1996. The next year he won silver at the World Championship and then he won his first-ever Lead World Cup. From 2000 to 2004, he did one Boulder WC per year and his worst result for four straight years was bronze.

Taking a look at everything he has accomplished on rock over the past nearly 30 years is nothing but astounding.
1996 SuperTweak (8c) at age 15
1997 Necessary Evil (8c+) FA
2001 Biographie 9a+ FA
2004 Practice of the Wild (8C) FA
2007 Es Pontas 9a+ DWS FA
2008 Jumbo Love (9b) FA
2013 La Dura dura (9b+)
It should also be mentioned that Chris has done the FA of the five hardest DWS routes in the world! The latest one Vision Quest (9a) three months ago.

Brooke Raboutou reports on Instagram that she has repeated Spectre (8B) in Bishop (CA). Shorter climbers like Carlo Traversi and Katie Lamb have previously suggested personal 8B+ grades for the Dave Graham boulder.

The 157 cm tall, who got the silver in the Paris Olympics, has previously done over 20 boulders 8B to 8C.

Janja Garnbret reports on Instagram that she has onsighted her third 8c, Popolni mrk (8c) in Mišja Peč. The 30 m route is the least repeated 8c in Misja Pec with 12 ascents in the database, out of which four, were marked as “hard”. It has never been onsighted before and Janja says, “Really proud because I consider this my hardest [8c onsight] until now 🥳”.

James Pearson has completed Guiliano Cameroni’s Mystic River (8C) in Brione. The 39-year-old projeced it for some ten sessions over two years.

”When I first saw footage of Mystic River a couple of years ago, I remember being amazed by the beauty of the rock and the complexity of the moves. I remember saying to myself how I would love to try it one day... I had no idea how big of a part of my life it would actually become. I first looked at the boulder on a family bouldering trip in Switzerland. I'd not been back to Ticino for 15 years, and I was excited to explore some of the new developments, in the hope of finding a project to work on. I tried a lot of really nice boulders on that trip, including ‘Unison’, Poison The Well’, and even ‘Alphane’, but it was Mystic River that really grabbed my attention. Back, then the landing was pretty bad. There was very little sand and pebbles, just a gentle slope of river washed, granite, leading into a cold deep pool. It was difficult to try the boulder without a spotter, and I remember thinking that if I wanted to try this seriously, I might need to get creative.

We returned the following year and this time I started to invest serious time into Mystic River. I was already making good links on the boulder and hoped I might finish it. The river had deposited a nice beach of sand and pebbles underneath, and I started to feel confident trying it on my own. There were still a couple of exciting moments, where I would spontaneously dry-fire horizontally off the boulder when I tried to build my feet up high for the crux move, but I never quite made it to the water! By the end of that trip, the skin on my left hand was destroyed from the singular sharp crux crimp, and my right heel was throbbing from the intense hooks! I had started to regress and knew I'd have to come back for it. Yet, by the time I could get away again, I had some friends send me photos of the river, which was already way too high!

From that point, my obsession with this boulder really began. Sending messages to anyone I knew, who was in Brione, who could potentially check the height of the river for me, planning ways that I could potentially build up the landing, so I could try it again, even if the water might be unseasonably high. In January of this year, I took the chance to head down for a couple of days on my own. Normally the height of the river swells during the summer months and decreases over winter, but as I arrived in Brione, I could see that the river was high, and as I made my way down to the boulder, I found the remnants of a tiny landing. Perhaps enough to try a couple of the moves with a spotter, but no way near enough for me to try on my own.

Luckily, the river had left a huge bank of sand and pebbles just on the right, so I grabbed a small spade from the van and in a couple of hours I’d fashioned a nice flat landing. I had one great session on the boulder, where I fell on the last move and made it consistently through the first half of the problem. By the end of that visit, I knew I could do it... I just needed a bit more time. I don’t enjoy being away from Caro and the kids, yet I was so invested in this boulder, that I was desperate to go back. My plan was to go back to Ticino just before the school holidays began so I could finish it off, and be back in time to do some fun things with the kids. I said goodbye and drove the 10-hour journey to Ticino, alone. I headed directly to Mystic River, and found the lovely flat landing I had left behind, on my last visit, now submerged under 20 cm of water! Two days of digging later, I managed to move enough rock and sand from elsewhere in the riverbed to make a small beach just big enough for my crash pads! It was backbreaking work, but the only option... well, actually, the sensible choice might have been to enjoy any one of the thousands of other amazing boulders in Ticino, but by this point it might be clear that my relationship with this boulder was anything but sensible.

For the next week I lived and breathed Mystic River as I tried to unravel its mysteries. Some sessions felt great, and in others I could barely pull on. Some attempts I fell on the last move, and on the next go I would fall off the first or second. Never have I tried a boulder that is so hard to climb! Whilst the individual moves themselves are not particularly difficult (at least in comparison to other boulders around this grade) they are all, without fail, extremely easy to fall off of. The river polished granite allows for no mistakes in placement or movement, and dry fires and foot slips are never far away. Little by little, I whittled away and began to feel like I could do it, but it was almost time to get back to France and I had to make every session count. The session I climbed, Mystic River was a perfect example of everything. I love and hate about this boulder. When I arrived at the Boulder, I'd all but decided not to climb as I thought the conditions would get better later in the day. Then randomly, a young Italian climber named Pietro Vidi, turned up and asked if I minded if he tried it with me. I still wasn't convinced by the conditions, but thought it was worth a try anyway, as it would be nice to actually climb with someone else for a change.

Pietro is a great climber. He's in his early 20s but has already bouldered several 8C+ boulders, and repeated Tribe, one of the world’s hardest traditional routes. He also happens to be great at knee-bars, and I was pleased to watch him discover a more secure way of using the crucial right knee-bar, that made the middle section feel a little more controlled. I made a really good first try, falling on the final move and a then a few more goes, falling with an unexpected hand or foot slip each time. Everything started to fall to pieces. I spent four or five attempts falling on the first or second move, incapable of making the right heel hook stick. I thought this might be the end of the session... Perhaps the conditions had changed, or perhaps, I was just simply too tired after almost a week of trying the same moves. I almost gave up, knowing that this would probably be my final session of the trip, but decided to take a long rest, change my shoes, and try a few more times... Then I did it on my next go! The successful attempt wasn't any different to many of my previous attempts. I didn't feel particularly solid, or locked in, but either from luck or practice I made few mistakes. Still, it was almost a surprise to actually catch the hold on the last hard move, and you can even hear my delayed scream in the video when I realise I'm still hanging on. Really happy I practised the last slab because even though it's not very hard, I could imagine falling up there with legs as shaky as mine were. I topped out the boulder in a state of disbelief. I'm not sure if the amount of work I had to put in to climb this thing was objectively worth it... But it sure made that moment feel pretty amazing!”