Adam Ondra 32 ipboylu Down Wall'un büyük çıkışı için dinleniyor. İp boylarının yarıdan fazlası 8a+ dan daha zor ve 4 8b+, bir 8c, bir 8c+ ve iki 9a var. Tommy Caldwell ve Kevin Jorgesson'nin aslında bir takım İ.Ç.'ı yaptıkları çok iyi bilinmiyor. Bunun anlamı ipboylarının yarısının tepeden emniyetli çıkılmış olması. Bununla birlikte yan geçişler olan iki 9a'yı ikisi de lider tırmandı ve Jorgesson'in lider çıktığı 8c+'ı Caldwell 8c'lik bir diğer yoldan çıktı. Sonuçta, Caldwell ve Jorgesson 16 tırmanış günü ve evvelinde 6 yıl çalışma harcadılar. Adam ipboylarının yarısını tepeden emniyetli tırmanma lüksüne sahip olmayacak ve bu da onun çıkışını daha zorlu hale getiriyor ki kimi zaman sadece geleneksel malzemelere güveniyor olacak. Adam'ın tırmanışında yanında olacak Pavel Blazek üç hafta önce Instagram hesabından şöyle yazmıştı: "İkimizde bunu çok komik bulduk - Adam daha önce hiç geleneksel tırmanmamıştı, bense hiç çok ipboylu rotada bulunmamıştım, hiçbirimiz daha önce ne cumarlamış ne de büyük bir duvarda sabit ip hattı kırmuştuk ... Galiba zor yoldan öğreneceğiz :) :) :)"

Gonzalo Larrocha has done his third 9a in 2016, Seleccio Natural in Santa Linya. "The power of the multi- execution. I guess that it can be soft in its grade But I was struggled in those two moves."

Edu Marin has made the FA of the five-pitch-long Tarragó Plus 8c located in Montserrat, which was the first playground crag for both Edu and his father, Novato, who belayed him. Tarragó was first freed by the Pou brothers in 2013 as an 8b+ and first Edu repeated the original line but two days later he opted for combining the two crux pitches and creating a 55 meter 8c with lots of ropedrag. "After freeing Tarragó, I thought that it would be best to join pitch 4 (8a) and pitch 5 (8b+), as the anchor was situated in the middle of a very difficult sequence. It was logical to me to rest after, not during that crux." "It is one of the most amazing routes I have ever climbed, aesthetically perfect, very aerial and exposed."

The best conditions are normally said to be around zero degrees and sunny or a couple degrees warmer with no sun. On the other hand, cold fingers will not make you climb anything. The best tipson how to keep warm taking advantage of the prime conditions is actually to wear Vertic sleeves or something similar to keep your forearm warm. The blood from your heart is 37 degrees warm and the best way to keep this temperature until it reaches the non protected fingers is by having an extra layer all the way to the wrist. This in combination with an open glove will have the best impact making you able to climb harder in lower temperatures. Here are more tips on how to keep warm, other than wearing a lot of clothing and being active while resting, especially doing the windmill. 1. Warm up inside 2. Put your gloves and shoes inside your clothing 3. Use a bigger pair of shoes so you can wear socks 4. Electric or chemical heater that can be put in your chalk bag

Adam Ondra and Alex Megos had an onsight focus as juniors and they have become, without injuries, the best in the world. On the other hand, we hear about more juniors getting finger injuries at the same time as they are focused on projecting hard, redpointing or competing in Bouldering. Sometimes, 8a actually do not report about remarkable redpoints by kids if it turns out that they have been projecting it for too long. In practice, it is easier for a kid to find and redpoint an 8a route where being short or having thin fingers actually helps than onsight a 7a. The problem is of course that once you have done an 8a, it may feel very disappointing to fall on a 7a onsight. For adults, you should have a wide grade pyramid based on factor three at least but for a children are at risk if the factor is below five. So have you not done five 7c+'s and onsighted five 7b's yet, you should not go for an 8a project! It should be noted that the original idea with the 8a ranking game is to count the Top-10 climbs and give good bonuses for onsights and flashes, in order to reduce the interest of just working on some few long term redpoint projects. Here is our new onsight/flash ranking. Juniors that are doing great also in this category are: Jan Vopat, Laura Rogara and Oriane Bertone.

Adam Ondra comments on his Instagram that he has just freeclimbed the pitch 10 (8b+) of the Dawn Wall. It seems that his final attempt is getting closer and closer. "One more day on the wall;-) Pitch 10 5.14a in the bag. For me the hardest pitch besides the two traverses (14 and 15)"

Seeing how much effort Adam Ondra put into working on this line and the comment he has already made on the Dawn Wall, it is clear that Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgesson's FA sticks out as probably the most impressive FA in the world. Two months prior to their 19-day FA in 2015, Tommy reported at Facebook, "Oh my goodness!!! After six years I finally sent this beast of a pitch. Inspired by Keven's fight to the death near miss.This officially means all the hard individual pitches have been redpointed. I am so psyched my hands are shaking!" Clearly, any of Adam Ondra's three 9b+ FAs and Nalle Hukkataival's recent 9A FA are also at the top when it comes to vision and dedication but it can not be compared with guys spending 100+ days up on portaledges to find out that it is possible - after six years of work! On the other hand, if Adam Ondra can repeat the Dawn Wall after just two months in Yosemite and just about three months after winning the Lead World Championship and being #2 in Bouldering, the Czech will set another new standard in the history of climbing. A month ago, Adam onsighted a super steep 8c+ and two weeks ago he prepared himself for the Dawn wall by onsighting more steep Routes in Jailhouse and doing some hard Boulders in LCC. Does there exist any other sport athlete in the world that can combine explosive power with ultra endurance like the 23-year-old? (c) Pavel Blazek

Adam Ondra'nın Dawn Wall rotasına koyduğu onca çabayı ve yaptığı yorumları gördükten sonra, şunu anlamak daha da kolaylaşıyor ki Tommy Caldwell ve Kevin Jorgesson'nin ilk çıkışları dünyadaki en etkileyici ilk çıkış. 2015'deki 19 gün süren ilk çıkışlarının iki ay öncesinde Tommy Facebook hesabından şöyle yazmıştı, "Aman tanrım!!! Altı yıldan sonra sonunda bu hayvani ip boyunu çıkabildim. Keven'nın ölümüne savaşı bana ilham verdi. Bunun anlamı tüm ipboyları tek başına çıkılmış oldu. Heyecandan ölüyorum, ellerim titriyor!" Açıkçası, Adam Ondra'nın üç 9b+ İÇ'ı ve Nalle Hukkataival'nın yakınlardaki 9A İÇ'ı tepede duruyor ancak bunlar adanmışlıkta ve ilerigörüşlülükte bu çocukların 100+ günü duvarda geçirmeleri ve bu çıkışın mümkün olup olmadığını anlamaya çalışmalarıyla kıyaslanamaz- Altı yıl çalışma sonunda! Öte yandan, eğer Adam Ondra Dawn Wall'un tekrar çıkışını iki ayda ve lider dünya şampiyonasını kazandıktan ve kısakayada ikinci olduktan sonra yapabilirse tırmanış tarihine yeni bir çıta koymuş olacak. Bir ay önce, Adam inanılmaz sert hayvani bir 8c+ rotayı ilk görüşte çıktı ve iki hafta önce Jailhous' ta daha çok dik rota ilkgörüş çıkışı yaparak ve LCC'de bazı sert kısakaya çıkışları yaparak kendisini bu çıkışa hazırladı. Acaba dışarıda bir yerlerde patlayıcı kuvveti dayanıklıkla birleştirecek 23 yaşında herhangi bir sporcu var mı? (c) Pavel Blazek

The Greek coastal town of Leonidio is holding its first Climbing Festival on November 10-13 using a smart and simple tool for their open Marathon event: climbers can register in pairs, climb all day long and mark their route ascents in the Vertical-Life Climbing App on their smartphones. Points are counted automatically according to the 8a.nu ranking game. This new, digital system has already been used on different events, like Melloblocco and the Kalymnos Festival. It has proven to be helpful and fun for both event organizers and climbers. Through the app, the participants can access the festival topos and get real-time info on what others are climbing. With the Vertical-Life app and 800 routes to climb, the first major climbing festival in Leonidio promises to become an awesome event! App download: Vertical-Life. More info Leonidio Climbing Festival

Tendon has the latest update from the Dawn Wall. It seems that Adam Ondra is almost ready for going for his big push. (c) Pavel Blazek "We had two busy day on the wall, but extremely important motivating ones! At first, I tried the pitch 14, where I still had no idea about what to do in the last boulder problem. After a little session, I could finally do the moves and soon after I gave it a go, but I realized that my beta for the intro moves on the last boulderproblem did not work. It took me a lot of time, skin, frustration and swearing to finally find a satisfying sequence, but I was exhausted and my skin thrashed. I still gave it a another that night, slipped on the first boulderproblem but then continued to the anchor. Which gave me a lot of confidence that next time it should work out. Second day, I was incredibly lucky to get overcast day, so I could make a lot of work. At first, we took some pics with Heinz Zak in pitch 14 (5.14d), then went down and sent pitch 8 (5.13d) and toproped pith 7 (5.14a). After lunch, I went for pitch 11 (5.13c) and linked the whole crux sequence, then linked the whole crux in pitch 12 (5.14b). Then we went down for toprope session on pitch 10 (5.14a) which is always desperately wet in the dark, but I still made it with one hang in toprope. To finish the day, I just re-checked the moves on pitch 9 (5.13c). It seems like I need yet to work a bit more on pitches 10, 12 and 13 (5.13b) and then pitches 1-6 (only 5.12b to 5.13c range) and I would be ready to go for the push. Can't wait!!!"