
28 November 2016
9a zhodenรฉ na 8c+ vฤaka vyzutej lezeฤke
Fanatic climbing oznรกmili, ลพe Seb Bouin spravil prvรฉ opakovania Salidad de Sol v Cantobre z dielne Enza Odda a zapรญsal si ho ako 8c+.
"Srandovnรฝ trik: pri preleze si Seb vyzul ฤพavรบ lezeฤku a boulder v ceste preliezol bez nej, aby mohol pouลพiลฅ dierku, kde presne pasoval ฤพavรฝ palec. Zvyลกok cesty doliezol s ฤพavou nohou bosou. Charles Albert zaฤรญna maลฅ nasledovnรญkov!"
Je dokonca moลพnรฉ, ลพe by sa z tohto mohol staลฅ novรฝ trend. Ak bude pre lezcov jednoduchลกie pouลพiลฅ dierku na celรฝ palec, skรดr ako stรกลฅ na jej niekoฤพko-milimetrovom okraji, potom je logickรฉ, ลพe by sa takรฝto ลกtรฝl mohol ujaลฅ. Charles Albert to uลพ demonลกtroval vo Fontainebleau.
Minulรฝ rok 8a poukรกzalo na to, ลพe na trhu by mohol byลฅ priestor pre lezeฤky s oddelenรฝm palcom. Takisto by lezci mohli naliezaลฅ do cesty s obomi lezeฤkami, vyzuลฅ si jednu ฤi obe kvรดli ลกpecifickej pasรกลพi a znovu ich nazuลฅ pri vhodnej prรญleลพitosti. Mohlo by to znamenaลฅ, ลพe sa niektorรฉ cesty dokonca budรบ zhadzovaลฅ. Zvlรกลกลฅ by to mohlo platiลฅ pri tรฝch, kde sรบ umelo vyvลtanรฉ dierky!
Na fotke je design od Mariusa Morstada spred 25 rokov, ktorรฝ v tej dobe posielal niekoฤพkรฝm vรฝrobcom.
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16 March 2026
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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