28 November 2016

9a zhodenรฉ na 8c+ vฤaka vyzutej lezeฤke

Fanatic climbing oznรกmili, ลพe Seb Bouin spravil prvรฉ opakovania Salidad de Sol v Cantobre z dielne Enza Odda a zapรญsal si ho ako 8c+. "Srandovnรฝ trik: pri preleze si Seb vyzul ฤพavรบ lezeฤku a boulder v ceste preliezol bez nej, aby mohol pouลพiลฅ dierku, kde presne pasoval ฤพavรฝ palec. Zvyลกok cesty doliezol s ฤพavou nohou bosou. Charles Albert zaฤรญna maลฅ nasledovnรญkov!" Je dokonca moลพnรฉ, ลพe by sa z tohto mohol staลฅ novรฝ trend. Ak bude pre lezcov jednoduchลกie pouลพiลฅ dierku na celรฝ palec, skรดr ako stรกลฅ na jej niekoฤพko-milimetrovom okraji, potom je logickรฉ, ลพe by sa takรฝto ลกtรฝl mohol ujaลฅ. Charles Albert to uลพ demonลกtroval vo Fontainebleau. Minulรฝ rok 8a poukรกzalo na to, ลพe na trhu by mohol byลฅ priestor pre lezeฤky s oddelenรฝm palcom. Takisto by lezci mohli naliezaลฅ do cesty s obomi lezeฤkami, vyzuลฅ si jednu ฤi obe kvรดli ลกpecifickej pasรกลพi a znovu ich nazuลฅ pri vhodnej prรญleลพitosti. Mohlo by to znamenaลฅ, ลพe sa niektorรฉ cesty dokonca budรบ zhadzovaลฅ. Zvlรกลกลฅ by to mohlo platiลฅ pri tรฝch, kde sรบ umelo vyvล•tanรฉ dierky! Na fotke je design od Mariusa Morstada spred 25 rokov, ktorรฝ v tej dobe posielal niekoฤพkรฝm vรฝrobcom.
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