NEWS

Adam sends the 9a pitches 14 and 15
Adam Ondra has sent both pitches 14 and 15 during his fifth day on the Dawn Wall. He comments on his Black Diamond blog: โ€œDay 5. As day 4 was a complete disaster, I still felt a lot of pressure, as I knew that sending pitch 14 is almost a must. But today, my mindset was different. I tried to make jokes, being relaxed and focused only just before the climbing. I was lucky enough to be precise and send pitch 14 (5.14d) on my first go after a little warm up.โ € โ € โ€œPitch 15 (5.14c or d) was next. This pitch is much longer and has a very nice and enjoyable 5.13c intro (with a few normal holds and even footholds) and a heinously sharp boulder problem at the end of the pitch. After chalking up the holds, I had a heartbreaking fall, a few moves below the jug of glory... and I had to face a hard decision. Should I give it one more try and try risk cutting my skin open or wait for tomorrow? It was rather unsure whether my skin would be better the next day. I took the first option. I started climbing again and despite feeling strong, my skin was really soft and sweaty. On the jug below the boulder problem, I almost thought my decision was wrong. I kept going nevertheless and somehow made it through the crux, where I had to improvise with my beta, as I was unable to reach with my foot all the way due to my sliding fingers from the razorblades. Getting to the anchor was emotional of course.โ € โ € โ€œLet's continue tomorrow. Still quite a few exciting pitches, but none of them are as sharp and hard as these two.โ€โ € (c) Pavel Blazek

19 November 2016

Ondra interviewed

National Geographic in depth interview after the falls on pitch #14. It should be noted that this sentence could be said is misleading as they top roped almost half the pitches. "Finally, over 19 continuous days in January 2015, Caldwell and Jorgeson achieved the first free ascent of the routeโ€”meaning they climbed each and every pitch in its entirety without a fall."

Adam 9a lฤฑk 14. ve 15. ip boylarฤฑnฤฑ tฤฑrmandฤฑ
Adam Ondra Dawn Wall'daki 5. gรผnรผnde 14. ve 15. ip boylarฤฑnฤฑ tฤฑrmandฤฑ. Black Diamond blog: "5. gรผn. 4. gรผn bir felaketti, hala baskฤฑyฤฑ รผzerimde hissediyordum ve emin olduฤŸum tek ลŸey ise 14. ฤฐp boyunun รงฤฑkฤฑlmasฤฑ gerektiฤŸiydi. Fakat bugรผn kafam biraz daha deฤŸiลŸik, tฤฑpkฤฑ tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ รถncesindeki gibi ลŸakalar yapฤฑyorum ve rahatlฤฑyorum. ลžanslฤฑydฤฑm bugรผn รงรผnkรผ 14. ฤฐpboyunu ufak bir ฤฑsฤฑnmadan sonra ilk denememde ve tereddรผtsรผz รงฤฑkabildim. โ € โ€œ15. ฤฐp boyu (5.14c veya d) bir sonrakiydi. Bu ip boyu รงok daha uzun ve รงok eฤŸlenceli bir 5.13c giriลŸi var (birkaรง normal tutamak hatta ayak bile var) ve tiksindirici keskin bir kฤฑsakaya bรถlรผm en sonda. Tutamaklarฤฑ fฤฑrรงaladฤฑktan sonra, zaferin o gรผzel cep tutamaฤŸฤฑndan birkaรง hamle รถnce dรผลŸtรผm... ve zor bir kararla yรผzleลŸmek zorunda kaldฤฑm. Bir deneme daha yapฤฑp parmak derimin aรงฤฑlmasฤฑ riskini mi almalฤฑydฤฑm yoksa yarฤฑnฤฑ mฤฑ beklemeliydim? Derimin yarฤฑn daha iyi durumda olacaฤŸฤฑ da ลŸรผpheliydi. Ben de ilk seรงeneฤŸi seรงtim. Yeniden tฤฑrmanmaya baลŸladฤฑm. ร‡ok gรผรงlรผ hissetmeme raฤŸmen parmaklarฤฑm terli. Cebin altฤฑndaki kฤฑsakayaya geldiฤŸimde kararฤฑmฤฑn yanlฤฑลŸ olduฤŸunu dรผลŸรผnmeye baลŸlamฤฑลŸtฤฑm. TฤฑrmanฤฑลŸa devam ettim ve kilidi geรงtim ki kendi doฤŸaรงlama รงรถzรผmรผmรผ kullandฤฑm. ฤฐstasyona gitmek ise elbette duygusal oldu. โ € โ€œYarฤฑn devam edelim. Hala birkaรง sฤฑkฤฑ ip boyu var ancak hiรงbiri bu ikisi kadar keskin ve sor deฤŸil.โ€โ € (c) Pavel Blazek

Leonidio - Avrupa'nฤฑn yeni kฤฑลŸ tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ bรถlgesi #1
Leonido, 2013'ten bu yana aรงฤฑlan 900 rota ile 8a trend listesinde 1 numara ve muhtemelen ลŸimdiden Avrupa'daki en iyi kฤฑลŸ tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ bรถlgelerinden. KireรงtaลŸฤฑ renkli ve kaliteli. 3a dan 9a ya kadar rota bulmak mรผmkรผn ve en az 1000 rotalฤฑk daha potansiyel var. The Panjika ลŸirketi Alman ve yerel tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸรงฤฑlardan oluลŸuyor ve bรถlgenin ilk boltlanmasฤฑnda oldukรงa aktifti. Sonrasฤฑnda ise belediyenin oluลŸturduฤŸu fonla Remy kardeลŸler 300 kadar rota aรงtฤฑlar. Belediye รถlรผ sezon olan kฤฑลŸฤฑ tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸla canlandฤฑrmak iรงin sฤฑkฤฑ รงalฤฑลŸฤฑyor ve bir de tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸ festivali dรผzenlediler. Ocak ayฤฑnฤฑn ortalamasฤฑ 12 derece. ร‡oฤŸu sektรถr Gรผney'e bakฤฑyor ve manzara mรผthiลŸ. Dinlenme gรผnleri iรงin รงok fazla bir ลŸey yok ancak daฤŸlardaki eski manastฤฑrlar ve tarihi yapฤฑlar ziyaret edilebilir. Kalymnos ile direkt kฤฑyaslayacak olursak, burasฤฑ รงok daha iyi bir kฤฑลŸ bรถlgesi, orasฤฑ kadar yaฤŸmurlu ve rรผzgarlฤฑ deฤŸil. ลžehir ise Massouri'den รงok daha bรผyรผk, yani alฤฑลŸveriลŸ ve yeme iรงme imkanฤฑ daha geniลŸ Laonidio'nun Kalymnos'tan daha avantajlฤฑ olan bir yanฤฑda rotalara ulaลŸmanฤฑn daha kolay olmasฤฑ ve รงok ip boylu rotalar daha iyi durumda. Ayrฤฑca denizden 1000 metre yรผksekte tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸa da gidebilirsiniz. Gelecek kฤฑลŸ, Aris Theodoropoulos namฤฑ diฤŸer Mr Kalymnos, yeni Best of Greece rehberini tanฤฑtacak ve Leonidio'daki en yeni ve gรผzel rotalar da bazฤฑ eski rotalarฤฑn derecelerindeki dรผzeltme ile birlikte rehberde yerini alacak.

Day 4 - Ondra fails seven times on pitch 14, 9a
Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he fell seven times on the first 9a pitch during day 4. "Damn! Climbed super poorly, so much pressure, so nervous! Needed 7 tries to make it through the first boulderproblem on pitch 14, a boulderproblem that i never really found very hard before, but somehow felt really hard today. I slipped on my first try, then on my second try, then just freaked out and felt so insecure with my feet trying to climb as carefully as possible but kept slipping nevertheless. Then, on my 7th try, I did the boulderproblem, and fell from the last move. Hard to find some optimism, but I will try it again. Tomorrow and hopefully with better mindset. Thanks everyone for encouragement! I am sorry for today, hopefully there is still the chance!"

The mayor of Leonidio, Lysikatos Haralampos, was elected in 2013 and since then he has given a high priority for climbing and also created space in the budget for buying bolts and improving parkings and paths. During the climbing festival he also tried climbing for the first time. - Safety and quality is very important for us and please feel free to contact us and share your opinion. We plan to set up signs at the sector with important info such as emergency telephone number, general safety and collect your garbage infoetc. Next year we plan to run yet another climbing festival. As we do not have any prior knowledge to climbing we are very glad for everyone that is helping out to develop Leonidio. We do not want just positive feedback. We want everyone to give their honest opinion and advice so we can learn and improve.

3. Gรผn- Ondra yedi kere 9a lฤฑk 14. ฤฐp boyundan dรผลŸtรผ.
Normalde 3. gรผnรผn dinlenme olmasฤฑna karar vermiลŸ olmasฤฑna raฤŸmen, Adam Ondra tฤฑrmanฤฑลŸa devam etti ancak ne yazฤฑk ki hesabฤฑndan duyurduฤŸuna gรถre Instagram yedi defa ilk 9a ip boyundan dรผลŸtรผ. "Lanet be! Mal gibi tฤฑrmandฤฑm, รงok fazla baskฤฑ, รงok fazla endiลŸe! 14. ip boyunun ilk kฤฑsakaya problemini geรงebilmek iรงin 7 defa denemem gerekti. Aslฤฑnda daha รถnce bu problemde fazla zorlanmamฤฑลŸtฤฑm ama bugรผn รงok zor geliyor. ฤฐlk denememde kaydฤฑm, ikincisinde รงok dengesiz hissettim ve korktum ve yine de sรผrekli kaymaktan kurtulamadฤฑm. Ardฤฑndan 7. denememde bu kฤฑsmฤฑ geรงtim ancak bu sefer de son hamleden dรผลŸtรผm. ฤฐyimser kalmak zor ancak yine deneyeceฤŸim. Umarฤฑn yarฤฑn ve daha temiz bir zihinle. Cesaretlendiren herkese teลŸekkรผrler. Bugรผn iรงin รผzgรผnรผm, umarฤฑm hala bir ลŸans vardฤฑr!"

Day 2 - Ondra has finished pitch 13
Adam Ondra comes with the great news on Instagram, "Tired but relieved face! Made it up to the start of pitch 14! As @alexhonnold brought some dark chocolate for @tommycaldwell and @kjorgeson on their push and it seemed it helped them, Heinz did the same today. But he told me that I must deserve it first:-) And send pitch 10. I did in rather dramatic way on my 2nd go. Then, I almost finished the chocolate while having a few heartbreaking goes on the pitch 12 to calm my nerves. Luckily it all worked out and we are getting deserved sleep. More detailed info on @blackdiamond and @mytendon coming soon." On Pavel Blazek's Instagram, Adam explains that he actually did send pitch 12 on his fourth go and here you have the full report on Black Diamond including speculating an upgrade of an 8b+ pitch. Tendon has also presented all news from Adam the last month. Tomorrow Adam plans to rest and then go for the crux pitches; 9a, 9a and 8c+. It should be noted that during the FA Caldwell and Jorgesson needed six days to do the first 13 pitches swing lead, i.e. half on top rope.

It is quite common that hard core routes get intermediate anchors, i.e. an extra bolt is placed on a 9a route and makes it an 8c or so. This is something that, in our opinion, could also be done on easier routes in order to create more challenges. In Leonidio, Claude Remy has put up a sector with several 23 meter long 6b's with intermediate anchors at some 15 meters above the ground, creating some 5c's. It is a very good initiative and hopefully this trend will spread around the globe.

2. Gรผn- Ondra 13. ฤฐp boyunu bitirdi
Adam Ondra harika haberlerle geliyor Instagram, "Yorgun ama rahatlamฤฑลŸ durumdayฤฑm! 14. ฤฐp boyuna ulaลŸtฤฑm! @alexhonnold @tommycaldwell ve @kjorgeson iรงin รงukalata getirdiฤŸi gibi, Heinz de aynฤฑsฤฑnฤฑ bana yaptฤฑ ama รถnce bunu haketmem gerektiฤŸini sรถyledi:-) 10. ฤฐp boyunu dramatik biรงimde ikinci denememde รงฤฑkabildim. Ardฤฑndan, 12. ฤฐp boyuna yaptฤฑฤŸฤฑm birkaรง umut kฤฑrฤฑcฤฑ denemem sฤฑrasฤฑnda รงukalatayฤฑ neredeyse bitirdim. Neyseki tรผm yorgunluฤŸumuza deฤŸdi ve biraz uykuyu hakettik. Daha รงok bilgi iรงin @blackdiamond ve @mytendon coming soon." On Pavel Blazek's Instagram, Adam 12. ฤฐp boyunu 4. denemesinde รงฤฑkฤฑลŸฤฑnฤฑ aรงฤฑklฤฑyor full report on Black Diamond Tendon Yarฤฑn Adam dinlenmeyi ve ardฤฑndan kilit ip boylarฤฑnฤฑ denemeyi planlฤฑyor; 9a, 9a ve 8c+. ลžunu da belirtelim ki i.ร‡. sฤฑrasฤฑnda Caldwell ve Jorgesson 13. ฤฐp boyunu bitirmek iรงin 6 gรผne ihtiyaรง duymuลŸlardฤฑ.