Daniel Jung has done Black Label in Frankenjura giving it a personal grade of 8c+ as he found new beta. The route was opened by Markus Bock and as Alex Megos, who just repeated another of his FAs, Daniel has doubts about the use of sika. "I have some mixed feelings about this route, the first boulder is on perfect rock, super nice, but the second boulder has one hold with Sika... I'm not sure if it's for reinforcing a thin rock struckture (what I think is just ok) or if it makes a very bad hold better. I was optimistic and I'm hoping it's just reinforced, otherwise I wouldn't be motivated to try it. But at the end I'm not sure if it is a natural hold, that's just the point why I can't feel super happy about an awesome route, if it isn't natural I can't take it as a rock climbing route."

It is not so unusual that an 8a route is mainly 7a until the last bouldery crux. Such routes are seldom popular but there is a great possibility to increase the quality and popularity of such routes - simply add one bolt creating a logical ending of the 7a climb. The same idea can of course be applied on any grade meaning that more great climbing challenges can be created. In practice, the idea with more first anchors also means that you could invite your friend to join you at the crag even if they do not climb at the same level as you. In reality, you do not have to wait until one more bolt has been added in order to create a new anchor and route. Just start climbing and see if you can add a new quality route to the crag and record it with a new name and grade on your scorecard/log-book. Possibly, the FA of the route and the topo producer may think it is a good idea and it would soon become official.

Combined sport climbing will be a part of the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. During the World Championships 2016, it took IFSC several days to publish Combined results and the same thing happen for the Youth Championships. IFSC's problem was that they based the results on wrong criteria and 8a presented this also saying that one podium actually was wrong. IFSC deleted the link showing the results but now, 48 hours later, they have still not presented the correct Combined results. In fact, in their sum-up article on the wrong podium is still visible.

More great news from Adam Ondra on his Instagram account which now has 34 000 followers. "Made it to the Wino tower tonight! Deep satisfaction, peace and fire at the same time in my heart and soul. Perfect conditions today and perfect focus. That means only 11 "easy" (5.10 - 5.12) pitches left. We would have continued, but looks like it will rain soon. Which means forced restday tomorrow and hopefully finishing it off on Monday. Detailed report on @blackdiamond and @mytendon soon." Photo @pavelblazek The weather forecast says that it will be raining until 10 am on Monday and then Adam will have to be really quick as the temperature is already dropping to minus 6 at midnight.

Black Diamond has the latest update from Adam Ondra and here is a part of what he says: "“Pitch 16 can be climbed via the dyno or the loop. If I am not wrong, the dyno was given 5.14c (8c+), and the loop is probably easier—I heard something about 5.14a— but due to the crazy character of the climbing, the grade is not relevant. The dyno might be more logical as a line, but the loop pitch climbs the easiest way up the wall, so I consider both equally logical. I tried the dyno a few times in the last weeks, but I thought I would have to invest considerable effort into the dyno with insecure results, and that is why I decided to climb the loop pitch. The loop pitch or dyno pitch is followed by a 5.14a layback. In between, there is no belay, only a no-hands stance. My original goal was to connect the loop pitch into the layback, making a 60-meter mega-pitch at 5.14c at least." Picture from Pavel Blazek who reports that they have already started thinking about trying the Salathe wall and that he also will start working on Adam's new website.

Jorg Verhoeven is probably the second best all-round climber in the world with outstanding achievements in all climbing disciplines. In 2008, he won the Lead World Cup and this year he was #3 in a Boulder WC and just recently he did the second ascent of Dihedral Wall 8b+ on El Cap. The only climber in the world that can match Jorg's extraordinary multi-discipline track record during the last ten years is Adam Ondra but the amazing thing is the performance gap in between them. Adam/Jorg: Decathlon 135 versus 2: Redpoint 9a or harder 21 versus 0: Onsights 8c+ or harder 9 versus 1: Boulder 8C or harder 13 versus 4: WC/Championships Lead victory 5 versus 0: WC/Championships Boulder victory 9a versus 8b+: Big wall You might wonder if there exists any other athlete that is so superior in comparison with the runner-up in any other sport. Possibly the best way to make a quantitative measurement would be to use Decathlon examples. Jorg would probably win such an event being world class in all disciplines at the same time that Adam could win all events competing with a specialist. To be practical, this means that Adam had to run 100 seconds in 9.5, marathon 2.10, high jump 2.40, javelin 90 meters and pole vault 6 meters. Already seven years ago, being 16-years-old, Adam was the best sport climber in the world and possibly one of the best youngsters in all sports. As of 2017, maybe it is about time to put him on the cover of Sport Illustrated asking if he is the best athlete overall in the world? Picture Heinz Zak

Adam Ondra Dawn Wall'daki 5. gününde 14. ve 15. ip boylarını tırmandı. Black Diamond blog: "5. gün. 4. gün bir felaketti, hala baskıyı üzerimde hissediyordum ve emin olduğum tek şey ise 14. İp boyunun çıkılması gerektiğiydi. Fakat bugün kafam biraz daha değişik, tıpkı tırmanış öncesindeki gibi şakalar yapıyorum ve rahatlıyorum. Şanslıydım bugün çünkü 14. İpboyunu ufak bir ısınmadan sonra ilk denememde ve tereddütsüz çıkabildim. ⠀ “15. İp boyu (5.14c veya d) bir sonrakiydi. Bu ip boyu çok daha uzun ve çok eğlenceli bir 5.13c girişi var (birkaç normal tutamak hatta ayak bile var) ve tiksindirici keskin bir kısakaya bölüm en sonda. Tutamakları fırçaladıktan sonra, zaferin o güzel cep tutamağından birkaç hamle önce düştüm... ve zor bir kararla yüzleşmek zorunda kaldım. Bir deneme daha yapıp parmak derimin açılması riskini mi almalıydım yoksa yarını mı beklemeliydim? Derimin yarın daha iyi durumda olacağı da şüpheliydi. Ben de ilk seçeneği seçtim. Yeniden tırmanmaya başladım. Çok güçlü hissetmeme rağmen parmaklarım terli. Cebin altındaki kısakayaya geldiğimde kararımın yanlış olduğunu düşünmeye başlamıştım. Tırmanışa devam ettim ve kilidi geçtim ki kendi doğaçlama çözümümü kullandım. İstasyona gitmek ise elbette duygusal oldu. ⠀ “Yarın devam edelim. Hala birkaç sıkı ip boyu var ancak hiçbiri bu ikisi kadar keskin ve sor değil.”⠀ (c) Pavel Blazek

Leonido, 2013'ten bu yana açılan 900 rota ile 8a trend listesinde 1 numara ve muhtemelen şimdiden Avrupa'daki en iyi kış tırmanış bölgelerinden. Kireçtaşı renkli ve kaliteli. 3a dan 9a ya kadar rota bulmak mümkün ve en az 1000 rotalık daha potansiyel var. The Panjika şirketi Alman ve yerel tırmanışçılardan oluşuyor ve bölgenin ilk boltlanmasında oldukça aktifti. Sonrasında ise belediyenin oluşturduğu fonla Remy kardeşler 300 kadar rota açtılar. Belediye ölü sezon olan kışı tırmanışla canlandırmak için sıkı çalışıyor ve bir de tırmanış festivali düzenlediler. Ocak ayının ortalaması 12 derece. Çoğu sektör Güney'e bakıyor ve manzara müthiş. Dinlenme günleri için çok fazla bir şey yok ancak dağlardaki eski manastırlar ve tarihi yapılar ziyaret edilebilir. Kalymnos ile direkt kıyaslayacak olursak, burası çok daha iyi bir kış bölgesi, orası kadar yağmurlu ve rüzgarlı değil. Şehir ise Massouri'den çok daha büyük, yani alışveriş ve yeme içme imkanı daha geniş Laonidio'nun Kalymnos'tan daha avantajlı olan bir yanıda rotalara ulaşmanın daha kolay olması ve çok ip boylu rotalar daha iyi durumda. Ayrıca denizden 1000 metre yüksekte tırmanışa da gidebilirsiniz. Gelecek kış, Aris Theodoropoulos namı diğer Mr Kalymnos, yeni Best of Greece rehberini tanıtacak ve Leonidio'daki en yeni ve güzel rotalar da bazı eski rotaların derecelerindeki düzeltme ile birlikte rehberde yerini alacak.

Leonidio, with some 900 routes put up since 2013, is #1 in the 8a trend ranking and probably already one of the best winter destinations in Europe. The limestone is colorful and of great quality with all possible features. Route grades vary between 3a and 9a. There is a potential for at least 1 000 more lines. The Panjika cooperative consisting of Germans and local people was the most active at the beginning. Later the Municipality found fundings for several hundreds lines to be opened and the Remy brothers have put up some 300 routes. The Municipality is working hard to set Leonidio at the climbing map especially for the winter, "ghost-town" season and just recently they organized a climbing festival. In January the average temperature is 12 degrees. Most sectors face south, almost always with a nice view. For the rest days, there is not so much to do but of course you can enjoy some historical places and monasteries high up in the mountains. In a direct comparison with Kalymnos, this is a much better winter destination as it is not as windy and it rains much less in Leonidio. The city is also much bigger than Massouri so you will find a wider range of restaurants, shops, etc. Climbing-wise it is on the same level even if it is not as spectacular. Leonidio's advantage over Kalymnos is also that the approach is generally shorter and the multipitches are clearly better. You can go climbing up to 1 000 meter above see level, too. Next spring, Aris Theodoropoulos aka Mr Kalymnos, will present a new Best of Greece guide including the best and latest also from Leonidio and he will correct some of the old-school gradings in the Panjika topo. All the profit from the current topo goes to bolting.