2015 World Cup şampiyonu Jongwon Chon, Stockholm'deki La Sportiva Legends'de tüm rotaları ilk denemede çıkarak şov yaptı. Formata göre yarışmacılar önceki gün rotalara çalışmışlardı ve bugün 3 deneme hakları vardı. Jongwon bir saatte kazanmayı garantiledi ve ilginç olan şu ki yarışmayı kazanandan başka kimse La sportiva kullanmıyor. Video. 1. Jongwon Chon KOR 5t5 5b5 2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 5t7 5b6 3. Alex Megos GER 4t4 4b4

Jongwon Chon, víťaz Svetového pohára v boulderingu 2015, predviedol na La Sporiva Legends Only v Štokholme parádnu šou a preliezol všetkých päť bouldrov prvým pokusom. Netradičný redpoint formát znamenal, že si súťažiaci mohli nacvičiť problémy už dva dni pred pretekmi. Vo finále mal každý pretekár na boulder tri pokusy, no keďže sme videli mnoho topov, Chon si zaistil titul za približne jednu hodinu. Zaujímavé je, že je jediným spomedzi piatich účastníkov, ktorý lezie v lezečkách od La Sportivy. Video. Výsledky na pódiu: 1. Jongwon Chon KOR 5t5 5b5 2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 5t7 5b6 3. Alex Megos GER 4t4 4b4

Za posledných 40 rokov navŕtal tento švajčiar viac ako 15 000 ciest a dĺžok. V posledným rokoch sa zameral na lezeckú oblasť Leonidio, predtým sa pohyboval na Klaymnose. Claude vraví, že v posledných tridsiatich rokoch viac-menej stále pracoval na polovičný úväzok a všetok ostatný čas venoval robeniu nových ciest spolu so svojim starším bratom. Na fotke istí miestne deti, ktoré si prvý raz vyskúšali lezenie. Prosím, nepýtaj sa ma, prečo mám zrovna takúto mániu. Moja žena sa ma to už pýtala toľkokrát, no ja jednoducho nemám odpoveď. Vo Švajčiarsku žijem pri oblasti, kde môžem každý deň vyjsť z domu a jednoducho začať robiť nové cesty. Takisto som rád súčasťou toho, keď sa otvárajú nové lezecké destinácie ako Kalymnos či Leonidio." V poslednej dobe už Claude nemusel tak často platiť za istenia, ktoré osádzal, no okrem toho si všetky náklady hradí sám a za robotu nedostáva žiadny plat. Je to zvláštne, často sa stretávam s lezcami, ktorí si myslia, že toto je moje zamestnanie a že mám z toho celkom slušný zárobok." Za zmienku takisto stojí, že nedávno dostal Albert Mountain Award a jeho otec Marcel (94) v lete preliezol osemdĺžkové 5a.

Pred jeden a pol rokom Era Vellu prirovnal Jonathan Siegrist k 8c-čku a pred rokom si ju Magnus Midtbö ako prvý zapísal za 8c+. Na fotke je v ceste nalezený Pablo Barbero. (c) TrilobitePro Pred týmito vyhláseniami bola Era Vella jednoznačne najpopulárnejším 9a-čkom na svete s viac ako 30 prelezmi počas piatich rokov. Po návrhoch na zhodenie však zažila len dva prelezy počas posledného roka a pol. Táto cesta v španielskom Margalefe je z dielne Chrisa Sharmu a v databáze 8a je jednou z najlepšie hodnotených ciest vôbec. Môže byť tento pokles v jej popularite spôsobený tým, že si lezci radšej vyberú iné 9a ako by riskovali, že po ich preleze bude Era Vella zhodená?

Sachi Amma stopped competing after he won the World Cup in 2014. Next year he reached his goal to do ten routes 9a or harder. In 2016, he has slowly been shifting again and just stopped doing hard routes after a 9a+ in Flatanger this summer. (c) Sam Bié above Leonidio.

"I can not find any value to be a better person by comparing myself with other climbers. That is why I stopped competing and climbing hard routes. Why do I need to be better than the others? I my case, I had strong beliefs that I am the tiniest concept of myself. I needed to cover this weakness by doing amazing things (winning comps or climbing hard) but I noticed that you will never be satisfied by being better than the others. Because the essential problems are just covered and they are still there.

Please do not misunderstand that this way of thinking applies to all people. I think competition is very good way to learn yourself (And I know that lots of my friends who compete do it not just for winning....) I am pretty sure that comparing with others never gives you the real happiness.

So what is your goal now? (10 seconds of silence) I do not know... I am in the maze of my life. Today the image of climbing, specially media's focus, is mostly about power, strong or crazy. It is masculine. But my point of view, human has a feminine side too which is like smooth or beautiful. If the balance of climbing becomes more feminine, it will be beautiful! But this new vision came to me after stop pushing myself and it is still an undeveloped area for me.

And another vision is to createa place where climbers can show there passion and spirit, specially in Japan. There are not so many slideshows or film festival in Japan. I hope people who loves climbing (even if they are not strong) stands up more. I just want to get more ideas to enjoy and expand the potential of climbing.

Could not Tokyo Olympics become a motivator for fame and sponsors again? I have thought about this a lot and first I did hesitate but, no. This huge topic let me think what I really want to do and it was not Olympics.

So what is the next plan? I keep asking myself this all the time as I asked myself, "Why am I doing this?", when I was competitive... (10 seconds of silence)I will go to Spain for three weeks in December. But I do not know what I will climb. But I believe if I just keep being myself, life goes where I want to go!

Adam Ondra has posted Erik Sloan's updated topo, in which "Some grades of the pitches have been changed according to my feeling." On his Instagram Adam also presents some interesting historcal facts about the Dawn Wall. In fact, Adam's personal both up- and downgrades have been forwarded and here is the breakdown of the 19 pitches 8a and harder: 9a, 8c+, 8c/2, 8b+/3, 8b/2, 8a+/5, 8a/4.

Muriel Sarkany, one of the best competition climbers in the history, has done the 50 meter long endurance monster, La Rubia 8c+ in Villanueva del Rosario. Three years ago, the 153 cm tall did her first 9a Punt'X being 39 years old. Between 1997 and 2004, Muriel won the Overall WC 5 times and the remaining 3 years she was the runner-up! (c) Julie Sprooten - I tried the project two weeks in April until it became completely wet and then I came back last week. For the next month, I would like to use my good shape to try others routes but I have to see with the forecast! Here these last days, it rained a lot and been very cold, 7 degrees. After around 35-40 min of climbing, my feet were like ice and I wasn't feeling them anymore. It was really mental.

Muriel Sarkany, tarihteki en iyi yarışmacılardan dı. Şimdi ise 50 metrelik dayanıklılık canavarını parçaladı, La Rubia 8c+. 153 lük sporcu 3 yıl önce 39 yaşında ilk 9a sını çıkmıştı ve 97-2004 arasında 5 kez dünya kupası kazanmıştı.(c) Julie Sprooten - Bu projemi Nisan'da iki hafta kadar çalışmıştım ve geçen hafta yeniden başladım. Bomba gibiyim önümüzdeki ay başka rotalara da saldıracağım. Tabi hava müsade ederse. Son günlerde donduk, hava 7 derece ve donmuş ayaklar tırmanışı zihinsel bir savaş haline getiriyor.

Muriel Sarkany, jedna z najlepších súťažných lezkýň histórie, preliezla 50 metrové vytrvalostné monštrum La Rubia 8c+ vo Villanueva del Rosario. Pred tromi rokmi vo veku 39 rokov vyliezla táto 153 cm vysoká belgičanka svoje prvé 9a, Punt X v Gorges du Loup. V období 1997 až 2004 stála Muriel na stupni víťazom päťkrát a zvyšné tri raz skončila druhá! (c) Julie Sprooten "Cestu som nacvičovala už v Apríli počas dvoch týždňov, až dokým kompletne nezatiekla a najbližšie som sa vrátila iba pred týždňom. Počas nasledujúceho mesiaca by som rada využila dobrú formu na prelezenie ďalších projektov, no uvidíme, aká bude predpoveď! V posledných dňoch tu dosť pršalo a bola zima, iba 7 stupňov. Po cca 35-40 minútach lezenia som mala pocit, že mi nohy zamrzli a vôbec som ich necítila. Bola to celkom brutalita."

Ocun's best shoe for bouldering and performance climbing is the new Oxi. One of the guys testing it said it was super good but the other person with a norrower foot did not like the fact that they just had one lacro placed high up. This means that you cannot tighten the shoe as good further down on the foot. With a lot of sticky rubber both on the heal and toe, Oxi is especially good for heal - and toehooking. Other than that they did turn out to be quite stable and stiff, also really good on edging. Here is how Ocun presents them: "The Oxi has a prominent sticky rubber toe patch, perfect for toe hooking. The quick to slip on heal is powerful yet comfortable. Additional sticky rubber around the heal makes the slipper brilliant for heal hooking. The Grippin sole offers superb sensitivity throughout. Together these features make the Oxi the weapon of choice for hard bouldering. The slipper design and the single Velcro closure ensures a perfect fit and makes slipping the shoe on and off between problems a breeze."