NEWS

9a by Markus Jung in Frankenjura again

Markus Jung has done The Essential 9a in Frankenjura. More great pics by © Tobi Körner and a report in German. "I had The Essential on my do-to-list since my brother Daniel climbed it in 2013. When I came back to figure out the moves again everything went surprisingly well. I became very confident on the route and had a good progress. Took me just three days of attempting.. I'm just super happy." In total, Markus has done four 9a's meaning he is six behind his brother Daniel. Other successful sport climbing brothers are Firnenburg, Zanone, Ometz, Hörst, Cossey and Stranik brothers . Any others?

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Being sick and no training but still 8B for Jarkko Linkosuonio

Jarkko Linkosuonio shares his amazing story and shows that everything is possible even if you have Chronic Fatigue Syndrome and possibly also a Lyme disease. Here is his Vimeo account. (c) Anni Manninen "In 2009 when I was 18 years old, I was in a really good shape and I wanted to be a professional rock climber. In the beginning of 2009 I got really sick. My heart beat was really high all the time, I had bad fatigue, brainfog and my recovery was slow when I tried to train. Doctors couldn't find anything wrong with me and I just tried to rest. I rested some months and nothing got better. In June 2009 I decided to go for a road trip in Europe and climb, no matter how I felt. I felt quite bad and I needed a lot of rest days but I managed to climb some hard boulders. I did over 20 8A-8B boulders, one 8b+/c sport route and some 8b's. We came home in November 2009 and after some time I decided to stop climbing because I felt so bad. My condition got worse and worse every year. At the end of 2011 I couldn't even walk properly. I had to stop working and I got long sick leave and CFS (Chronic fatigue syndrome) diagnose. At the end of 2012 I started to try everything to heal myself in the long run. Nowadays it's also suspected to be Lyme disease. After that my condition has gotten slowly better every year! I'm not completely healthy but I feel better! In the spring of 2014 I started climbing a little bit again after a 4 year brake of doing any kind of sport. I climbed average 5 times per month and mostly easy stuff. At the end of the year I managed to do two 8A's and one 7C+ flash. 2015 January-March my condition was quite bad and I climbed maybe 5-10 times in 3 months. 21st of March I managed to do 3rd ascent to Super Mario 8B in my first session. That was really surprising! After that I have climbed about 1-3 times per week and I have done quite many hard boulders and been really close on an 8B-8B+? Now I have been taking it really easy the last few weeks because I have had some problems with my fingers. So far I have visited only boulders where there is short approach because my legs get pumped really easily. I also get tired fast and I usually need two rest days after one session. My goal for this year is to climb 8C boulder and to heal myself perfectly!

Marco Zanone does Sky 8B (+) Best hard boulder in the world?

Marco Zanone is having some great days in Rocklands, having done ten boulder 8A and harder during the alst week including Sky 8B (+). It was put up by Daniel Woods and in fact, most of the 15 ascent comments in the 8a data base, say it is the best or one of the best boulders in the world. Best boulder in the world?! Dreamed about this one for too long, now it's reality. 5 stars line."

Cameron Hörst (14) does his first 8c and Jonathan (12) does 8bs again

The Hörst family is in Frankenjura and Cameron (14) has done Raubritter, see picture. "Amazing line! super powerful, and sequential climb. My hardest climb yet and first 8c." Little brother Jonathan (12) has done two 8bs and both have onsighted Hitch-hike the Plane, 7c+. Their father Eric, is one of the most known climbing trainers and authors in the world and is also a major collaborator of 8a. Last month, we published an article where Eric warns kids and coaches about growth plates fractures in the fingers due to too much focus on campus board and bouldering.

9a FA link-up by Stefano Ghisolfi

Stefano Ghisolfi, who last year won one Lead WC, has done the FA of Hell'Avaro 9a in Tetto di Sarre. "Rain didn't stop, so Sarre is the only near destination where is possible to climb even if there is a storm. The conditions were not the best but I climbed a new connection from Hell to L'avaro, little harder than l'avaro, but not a full 9a (9a- could be a good grade!)"

Luzan Matyas gets progress for his Action Direct big project

Matyas Luzan has done more than 300 sessions of campusing, doing hard pocket circuits and replicas of Action Directe, during the last 15 months. Lately, he has been training with a 10 kg weight west with great progress. He is currently training very intensively 10 - 12 hours a week and he plans to go to Frankenjura in both August and October. - I have also set the pinch section on my campus board (the section where I had trouble) and tried to campus the moves in a controlled environment. After a month of trying and failing now I begin to climb it easily I make campusing replicas on a board which is a very controlled and adjustable environment. Luzan's personal best is 8b but he is fully committed to jump four grades. "There is no bigger source of motivation than challenging what you like. I tend to operate on a whole different level when I enjoy something, I lose sight of the difficulty somewhere.

Luckily only a broken thumb and a fractured rib but we can all learn from this. 1. When the terrain gets steeper, clip as early as possible as you otherwise are at risk for hitting the wall. 2. Always check that you have the rope in between your legs or you can turn upside down. 3. Dynamic belay will reduce the pendulum swing into the wall. 8a tips for soft falls and dynamic belays.

Mathieu Bouyoud has done the FA of Balmophilie which actually was his fifth 9a FA in La Balme. In total, the french has done eleven 9a's and he is #5 in the 8a ranking game.

97: Hannes Puman SWE - Jessica Pilz AUT 99: Stefano Carnati ITA - Janja Garnbret SLO 01: Mikel Linacisoro ESP - Mia Krampl SLO Complete results Although Slovenia and Austria were the best countries as normal, also Italy had equally good result and the great thing was that many more countries, beside Germany, have gotten closer. The most superior winner, as always, was Janja Garnbret who as usual topped out all routes.