Ga-eun Kwon, who sent Southern Smoke (8c+) at age 10, has together with her father Younghye completed La Fabelita (8c) in Santa Linya. Both ascents are shared on YouTube, Ga-eun and Younghye. The 53-year-old, who last year won the Ice World Cup in Korea, gives us their story.

"The climbing trip was planned for Santa Linya during my daughter's winter vacation. We chose La Fabelita as our first project. She solved all the moves on her third attempt and, after a rest day, sent it on her second try. In total, she sent the route on her fifth attempt. I figured out the moves faster, but it took about ten attempts due to my weaker stamina. Haha. Ga-eun also completed "Rock Fucks" 8b+ on her fifth attempt. Since there are many routes graded 8b+ and above here, we plan to climb more difficult routes in Oliana and Margalef next time."

Stefano Ghisolfi has repeated Alex Megos’ The full journey (9b) in Margalef, after projecting it for nine days. (c) Sara Grippo

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was projecting The journey (9a+) and also tried the last part (the full journey). But I was struggling a lot on the 9a+ crux and I couldn't do it and I fell few times before the 9a+ anchor. Today I passed for the first time and then I kept going and did the full journey, the very first time I could to the 9a+.

What is your next focus and how long will you stay?
The focus is now on Sleeping Lion (9b)! We haven't planned how long the trip will be, until it's too warm!

Eva Hammelmüller has during the last week flashed Bon pied, mon oeil! (8b) in Mollans and De Picos Pardos (8b) in Oliana. ”Half-flash, half OS :D Spent nearly to much time in the crux to figure out the moves, but managed to hold on. The upper part is pure pleasure. Again, can’t get much better than that.”

Then yesterday she redpointed Esclatamasters (9a) in Perles & Canelles. In total, the 24-year-old has sent 62 routes 8b+ to 9a and she is #2 in the annual female ranking. ”This route is just PERFECT. Enjoyed every single try on this 40m beast. From tired shoulders in the steep tufa part to sore forearms and fingers in the technical upper part, this route has it all. The nice people I got to know and climb with made it extra-special. Thanks guys!! 8c+/9a imo.” (c) Felix Mast

Can you tell us more about the trip and the most memorable ascents?
As I focused my winter training mainly on bouldering and building up max power, I used the first three days of this trip to gain some endurance again, and I could climb some amazing lines in Mollans and St. Léger. I am especially happy about flashing 2 8bs and making quick work of some routes graded 8b+/8c. When we arrived in Oliana, I couldn’t decide at first which route I wanted to try, but as soon as I hiked up to „Esclatamasters“, I was totally psyched to climb this amazing line!! I spent two days checking out the moves in great conditions, but then it started to rain and we spent a day in Oliana. When I came back to „Esclatamasters“, the sun was out, there was hardly any wind, and I realised how good the conditions in my first two days on the route were. Nevertheless, I started doing repoint tries, and it actually went really well!! I was pretty close to sending on my third day, but I struggled a lot with the warm temperatures.

As the weather forecast predicted clouds for the next day, we decided to climb instead of rest, even though it was our 3rd day on. However, the forecast was completely wrong, and I considered not trying after all. At the same time, I also didn’t want to hike down without even attempting, so I tied in and gave it a chance. I struggled quite a bit to see my footholds in the sun, still managed to do a new highpoint, but split my fingertip in doing so...

After that, I was convinced to call it a day. We chilled at the crag, hung out with nice people, and enjoyed the sunny weather. We were still there in the afternoon, and Felix wanted to film some sequences, so I decided to do another training go. I taped up, tied in, and started climbing. Everything felt really good, I climbed well, and suddenly I was at the jug two quickdraws before the top!!! I really could not believe it. Clipping the chains was so unexpected and felt absolutely amazing!! I really enjoyed the process in this route (climbing basically 2 moves further in each send go :D) and sharing this experience with so many nice people made it extra special!

Antoine Maire, who the last 12 months has done seven 8c+’, has completed Casi mono (9a) in Courchon. The 28-year-old has written short essays for nearly all of his 2,500 recorded ascents, and here is the Google translation of his first 9a.

”Yo my Bro, originally, I’m known in the eigth grade, In Bleau, they worship me like a king on his throne, In Courchon, I crush the mono and become an icon, It’s at the highest level that I shine like Ramon.

In the Nanogone, I land my biggest KO, I stand by my words, that’s my greatest gift. Since I’ve been gone, I feel like I’m in lockdown, This dream gives me the crown, I finally go pro in sports.

Today, I can become an athlete on Insta, With one-arm pull-ups, that and a three-way plan, Just need to get sponsored by Sephora And post 200 videos a month.

I’m sorry, but in a thousand years, When you read my comments on my 8a account, You’ll throw it all away, thinking that Antoine Maire Actually had everything to be admired.

You got it right, I’m a fan of alexandrines, For a 9a, I would’ve sold my own hand, I can thank Seb Bouin’s first ascent, Without him, I’d still be a rookie tomorrow.”

Enrique Beltrán Blasco, with seven 9a’s under his belt, has done Victimas Perez (9a) in Margalef.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I have always wanted to do 9a in Margalef and the conditions and my job allowed me to go further from home (Huesca) this season.

I looked for a route that motivated me and that was a real challenge, for that the Finestra sector is perfect. The process was not very fast since there were days when I could not climb because my skin was so bad

The most difficult part for me was take care the skin and rest two days when I go to the project. I really liked the process because many friends came and I met others there.

There is still motivation and the real thing is Gancho Perfecto (9a).

Adam Ondra, who the last few days has repeated Soudain seul (9A) and flashed an 8B+ and an 8B, reports on Instagram that he has flashed Imothep du sol (8B+) in Fontainebleau. (c) Petr Chodura

Ondra says that with his size the Camille Coudert problem just might be 8B as he did it, ”with a bit of margin”.

Then he tried Coudert’s potential 9A+ sit start project. ”I could do all the moves, too, and I completely fell in love with this boulder. It is just incredible 👊”

It should also be mentioned that Coudert has spent more than 100 sessions on the 9A+ project and today he finally unlocked the second move after borrowing Ondra’s shoes.

The breakdown on the very steep arete with a great focus on the right heal is according to Coudert,
Sit start; 2 moves 8B+ and 4 moves 8B
Stand start: 2 moves 8B/+ and 8 moves 8A

Adam Shahar reports on Instagram that he has completed the fourth ascent of Daniel Woods’ The Process (8C+) in Buttermilks.

The 19-year-old, who was #7 and #12 in his two last World Cups, has previously during the last six months sent his first five 8C’s. His current big project is Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) and after a good session last week, he sent Squoze (8B+).

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I started my process on the line at the end of 2024 flashing the bottom portion. Didn’t end up coming back to it until the end of my trip then when I did the top portion in a short session. After a short hiatus in Salt Lake City I returned to bishop with the sole intention of completing the line. After struggling with weather conditions i finally got a session in last weekend. Monday morning after having some great attempts the session prior I knew it was my time. After rehearsing the top V13 link from the flake to the top I was ready to give it my all. Had another couple of great goes and then suddenly it all clicked! On the go I sent I used Austin’s beta, coming into the left hand Gaston before setting myself up and committing for the last hard moves. Wow it felt amazing to hold that swing from the bottom! Had a gnarley topout experience numb as a mf on the v6/7 outro boulder. Tried probably the hardest I’ve ever tried on a v2 move and it was simple walking from there!

Meant a lot to join a list of the incredible athletes who have topped this one out. Hoping to keep the ball rolling into this new year.

Zach Galla had an amazing summer in Rocklands sending Monkey Wedding (8C), The Finnish Line (8C) and The smile (8C).

Matt Fultz, with eight 8C+’ under his belt, has done Desesperación (8C) and The Hangover (8B+), video, in Hueco Tanks (TX) .

Can you tell us more about the trip and these ascents?
We travelled to Hueco Tanks last week and were unfortunately greeted with record high temperatures. I was a bit disappointed but still used that week to learn some of the movements on both Desesperacion and The Hangover. Then on the first cool, windy day of our trip I was able to send both back-to-back!

Desesperacion is a more difficult entrance into the end of the famous Esperanza. Martin Mobraten made the first ascent in 2019 and called it 8B+, stating that although it was harder than Esperanza it didn't feel a full grade harder. I believe I made the second ascent, and in my opinion it's at least one grade harder! So I think an 8C grade is fair. Either way, it's a great addition to the cave and I'm hopeful the video beta will inspire other people to try it.

The Hangover has a funny history. "Martini on the Rocks" broke in 2005 (I believe) and hadn't been repeated since due to the now outrageous distance between the holds. I found that I was able to reach the holds with my 195cm span, but only barely. After a couple of days of effort, I figured out the trick to the move and was able to start sticking it consistently. Then I added a lower start to the original problem (and more logical in my opinion) for the first ascent. This problem's difficulty is very dependent on wingspan, but for my morphology it felt around 8B+.

Laura Rogora, who during the last five months has sent nine 9a’s, has onsighted American Hustle (8c) in Oliana. The 23-year-old has previously onsighted two 8c’s and her ticklist is superior among the female. (c) crimp.films

Can you tell us more about the onsight?
I am in Oliana for one week. On saturday I tried Papichulo (9a+) but I got a really bad split and yesterday I felt really bad on the route so I decided to switch on something easier. I didn’t start with the idea of onsighing it but then change my mind and I decided to give it all. It was a long battle😆 the route is perfect for onsight because there are some boulders divided by good rests.