16 February 2025

Eva Hammelmüller flashes two 8b’s and does Esclatamasters (9a)

Eva Hammelmüller has during the last week flashed Bon pied, mon oeil! (8b) in Mollans and De Picos Pardos (8b) in Oliana. ”Half-flash, half OS :D Spent nearly to much time in the crux to figure out the moves, but managed to hold on. The upper part is pure pleasure. Again, can’t get much better than that.”

Then yesterday she redpointed Esclatamasters (9a) in Perles & Canelles. In total, the 24-year-old has sent 62 routes 8b+ to 9a and she is #2 in the annual female ranking. ”This route is just PERFECT. Enjoyed every single try on this 40m beast. From tired shoulders in the steep tufa part to sore forearms and fingers in the technical upper part, this route has it all. The nice people I got to know and climb with made it extra-special. Thanks guys!! 8c+/9a imo.” (c) Felix Mast

Can you tell us more about the trip and the most memorable ascents?
As I focused my winter training mainly on bouldering and building up max power, I used the first three days of this trip to gain some endurance again, and I could climb some amazing lines in Mollans and St. Léger. I am especially happy about flashing 2 8bs and making quick work of some routes graded 8b+/8c. When we arrived in Oliana, I couldn’t decide at first which route I wanted to try, but as soon as I hiked up to „Esclatamasters“, I was totally psyched to climb this amazing line!! I spent two days checking out the moves in great conditions, but then it started to rain and we spent a day in Oliana. When I came back to „Esclatamasters“, the sun was out, there was hardly any wind, and I realised how good the conditions in my first two days on the route were. Nevertheless, I started doing repoint tries, and it actually went really well!! I was pretty close to sending on my third day, but I struggled a lot with the warm temperatures.

As the weather forecast predicted clouds for the next day, we decided to climb instead of rest, even though it was our 3rd day on. However, the forecast was completely wrong, and I considered not trying after all. At the same time, I also didn’t want to hike down without even attempting, so I tied in and gave it a chance. I struggled quite a bit to see my footholds in the sun, still managed to do a new highpoint, but split my fingertip in doing so...

After that, I was convinced to call it a day. We chilled at the crag, hung out with nice people, and enjoyed the sunny weather. We were still there in the afternoon, and Felix wanted to film some sequences, so I decided to do another training go. I taped up, tied in, and started climbing. Everything felt really good, I climbed well, and suddenly I was at the jug two quickdraws before the top!!! I really could not believe it. Clipping the chains was so unexpected and felt absolutely amazing!! I really enjoyed the process in this route (climbing basically 2 moves further in each send go :D) and sharing this experience with so many nice people made it extra special!
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