NEWS

8c FA by Janja Garnbret and a repeat by Domen Skofic
Domen ล kofic reports on Facebook that Janja Garnbret has done the FA of Ninja Zelva 8c in Misja Pec. Shortly afterwards, Domen managed to do the second ascent. This is one of the hardest FAs ever made by a woman. Domen won the Lead world cup this year and he is also third in the 8a ranking game. Janja also won the female World Cup and the World Championship besides winning both lead and bouldering youth championships with authority. In the 8a Climber of 2016, Janja is #2 and her boyfriend Domen is #4. (c) Stanko Gruden

8C again by Jongwon Chon
13 December 2016

8C again by Jongwon Chon

Jongwon Chon, the Boulder World Cup winner of 2016 who established an 8C in South Korea last month, reports on Facebook that he has done another 8C with the FA of Hymn in Mudeungsan National Park. He has told 8a his secrets previously, "I train 2 days and 1 day rest. First day 4 hours boulder training and 2 hours finger training/sloper training. Second day 4 hours boulder training and 2 hours weight training"

8c+ multipitch FA by Jozef Kristoffy
Jozef Kristoffy has done the first free ascent of the hardest multipitch in the Tatra Mountains. Corona is composed of three pitches, the second one, an 8c+, being the hardest. Jozef worked on the route for the entire summer and sent it in September. Here you can watch a nice video of the ascent. We asked Jozef about the hardest pitch: "The crux pitch is the second one. It's 38m long and 4m overhanging on the whole pitch. It's a slightly overhanging face with long, crimpy moves and bad feet. It should be around 8c+"

Enjoy this training session with the competition climbers Chloรฉ Caulier and Loรฏc Timmermans from Belgium. Coach Dicki shares some thoughts of his training philosophy and about the Kraftboard which was developed by Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb and is used in their new training concept "Kraftfactory.

Gimme Kraft Chloรฉ & Loic! from cafekraft on Vimeo.

Nech sa pรกฤi, trรฉningovรฉ video od sรบลฅaลพnรฝch lezcov Chloรฉ Caulier a Loica Timmermansa z Belgicka. Trรฉner Dicki sa podelil o zopรกr myลกlienok z jeho lezeckej filozofie a porozprรกval o Kraftboarde, s ktorรฝm priลกli spolu s Patrickom Matrosom a ktorรฝ vyuลพรญvajรบ vo svojom novom trรฉningovom koncepte. "Kraftfactory.

Gimme Kraft Chloรฉ & Loic! from cafekraft on Vimeo.

Jain Kim reports on Facebook that she has done Spicy Noodle 8c+ in Yangshuo on her second go. Earlier on the trip she flashed an 8c. Add to that one 8b+ redpoint and two 8a onsights. "It was huge present for me after the worldcup season." In the history books, Jain Kim is already a name in the competition arena and an 8c+ second go should be in the Top-10 most impressive female ascents ever.

Christof Rauch with 176 8A's and harder last two years
Stefan Koechel has made a nice interview with Christof Rauch, the person who has done most 8A's in the world since 2015. Looking at your ticklist of 2015 and 2016 I count incredible 176 ascents fb 8A and harder and the year isnโ€™t even over yet. That means every 4th day you topped out a problem in the 8th grade. How does your body cope with this constant strain? Any advice for injury prevention? Basically I do a lot of stretching and I have to apply a special massage to my forearms and fingers every day due to chronic tendinitis in most of my fingers. I got the inflammations a few years ago when I did 5 sessions a week without any stretching. Now I never climb more than two days in a row and everything is fine. Sometimes I still get some small injuries but in the past I was lucky enough to get nothing too bad.

Alberto Ginรฉs (14) onsights an 8a in Red River Gorge
The Spaniard Alberto Ginรฉs, had a very productive trip to RRG, where he sent a few hard routes: a few 8b's, Ultra Pern and Thug Life, Black Gold 8a+ and Bohica 8a onsight. It's his second 8a onsight during this year after he did El Ramallar, in Chulilla, and his 6th 8a onsighted. He's #5 in the junior route ranking game as well.

Alex Khazanov flashes Mandala 8A+
The classic Mandala 8A+ in Bishop, which 132 ascents in the 8a data base, has got its third flash ascent, Alex Khazanov. The first two flashes of the Chris Sharma great problem were done by Tony Lamiche and Brian Voges. "Andy Lamb and Solomon Barth helped me during the ascent. Solomon did it on his first go this time so I pretty much saw the perfect beta. Unfortunately, as no one really expected this flash, I just have some phone pictures that Andy took on the first moves. In some point he had to come spot. Cant believe I have actually flashed it! A dream come true for me! Ever since I have seen the footage of Chris (Sharma) climbing it, I was dreaming to try it some day. What a feeling it was toping that boulder."