NEWS

beta.8a.nu - responsive mobile platform
Our web developer Tieme has added some more nice features to our new responsive mobile platform beta.8a.nu. It is still in beta version but especially browsing on your phone or tablet is a lot easier than on the current site. 1. New Crag and Ticklist search optimised for mobile. 2. Search "Nearby Crags" based on your location and get driving instructions. 3. Separated News and Video pages. 4. Share to FB and Twitter etc. Read more and subscribe for updates to our Beta newsletter here. Currently you cannot add ascents, pictures or anything to your scorecard. This is our next priority and will be updated next year. Please feel free to post any feedback!

Here is the draft of Climbers of 2016 List. Please comment and give opinions. As in previous years, the list is based on sport climbing with more credit for those doing FAs and all climbing disciplines. 1. Adam Ondra CZE 2. Janja Garnbret SLO 3. Ashima Shiraishi USA 4. Domen Skofic SLO 5. Alex Megos GER 6. Anak Verhoeven BEL 7. Nalle Hukkataival 8. Jain Kim 9. Jakob Schubert 10. Alex Puccio, Jernej Kruder, Jongwon Chon, Tomoa Narasaki, Sean McColl, Stefano Ghisolfi, Megan Mascarenas, Melissa Le Neve, James Webb, Alexey Rubtsov, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Laura Rogara, Jonathan Siegrist, Ryuichi Murai, Paul Robinson, Jan Hojer, Gabri Moroni, Shauna Coxsey, Seb Bouin, Chris Sharma, Karoline Sinnhuber, Isabelle Faus, Romain Desgranges, Dani Andrada, Margo Hayes, Edu Marin, Sebastian Halenke, Jessica Pilz, Kokoro Fujii, Petra Klingler, Piotr Schab, David Firnenburg, Charles Alber, Christof Rauch, Katharina Saurwein, Martin Stranik, Miho Nonaka, Akiyo Noguchi, Gauthier Supper, Daniel Fuertes, Mathieu Bouyoud, Toshi Takeuchi, Michaela Kiersch, Carlo Traversi, Angela Eiter, Nina Caprez

Here is the draft of Teenage Climbers of 2016 List. Please comment and give opinions. As in previous years, the list is based on sport climbing with more credit for those doing FAs and all climbing disciplines. 1. Ashima Shiraishi 2. Janja Garnbret 3. Laura Rogara 4. Megan Mescarenas 5. Margo Hayes 6. Loic Zehani 7. Stefano Carnati 8. Jan Vopat 9. Naรฏlรฉ Meignan 10. Stasa Gejo, Nicolas Pelorson, Filip Schenk, Giuliano Cameroni, Ruben Firnenburg, Giorgio Bendazzoli, Brooke Raboutou, Jakob Kronberger, Elena Krasovskaya, Pablo Hammack, Nathan Williams, Felipe Ho Foganholo, Kim Marschner, Max Prinz, Hannah Schubert, Kajsa Rosen, Fedir Samoilov, Sam Avezou, Dinah Marcuson, Matteo Menardi, Austin Purdy, Baptiste Ometz, William Bosi, Borna Cujic, Giorgia Tesio, Vita Lukan, Simon Lorenzi, Jorge diaz-rullo, Moritz Perwitzschky, Amelia Marcuson, Nika Potapova, Chaehyeon Seo, Keita Dohi, Nathan Martin, Kai Ligthner,

Rings - a good start for kids' climbing
Even if your summer house is just 10 meters from a beginner crag with 70 routes, kids very seldom climb. They prefer just to paint on the rock or they want you to pull them up. This autumn we bought some rings and placed them below our staircase and since then our children, 5 and 6years old, have been playing and doing tricks at least one hour every day. Being stronger they have just found out that doing some laps on the auto-belay next to their parents is a lot of fun before they go bouldering.

beta.8a.nu - responsive mobile platform
Novรฝ web developer Tieme pridal na naลกu novรบ platformu niekoฤพko zaujรญmavรฝch funkcii beta.8a.nu. Aj keฤ je stรกle v beta verzii, prehliadanie by malo byลฅ omnoho jednoduchลกie, hlavne na mobiloch a tabletoch. 1. Novรฉ oblasti a Zoznamy ciest sรบ teraz prispรดsobenรฉ pre mobilnรฉ platformy 2. Je moลพnรฉ vyhฤพadaลฅ "Blรญzke oblasti" na zรกklade polohy a zรญskaลฅ trasu pre cestu autom 3. Oddelenรฉ strรกnky pre Novinky a Videรก 4. Zdieฤพanie na Facebooku, Twitteri atฤ. Na tomto linku si mรดลพeลก preฤรญtaลฅ viac a zรกroveลˆ sa prihlรกsiลฅ na odber Beta newsletteru: here. Bohuลพiaฤพ nie je zatiaฤพ moลพnรฉ do dennรญฤka pridaลฅ prelezy, obrรกzky alebo ฤokoฤพvek inรฉ. Je to vลกak naลกou ฤaฤพลกou prioritou a update plรกnujeme na budรบci rok. Budeme vฤaฤnรญ za akรบkoฤพvek odozvu!

Orangutanรญ trรฉning - pokraฤovanie
"Climb like an orangutan and improve your endurance", v slovenskej verzii "Lez ako orangutan a zlepลกi si tak vytrvalosลฅ", je jednรฝm z najhodnotnejลกรญch ฤlรกnkov za rok 2016 ฤo sa tรฝka odozvy v komentรกroch, cez emaily, na Facebooku a dodatoฤnรฝch otรกzok. Dokonca sa na jeho adresu pozitรญvne vyjadrili aj niektorรญ trรฉneri. Zopรกr lezcov sa takisto vyjadrilo, ลพe zmenu v technike pocรญtili uลพ po niekoฤพkรฝch trรฉningoch a tento ลกtรฝl sa rรฝchlo ujal aj v ich okolรญ. Tu je niekoฤพko ฤalลกรญch odpovedรญ a nรกpadov. Podstata celรฉho cviฤenia ลกtรฝlom orangutana je, aby bol lezec pri lezenรญ uvoฤพnenejลกรญ, tรฝm pรกdom pouลพรญval menลกie percento svalovรฝch vlรกkien, ฤo postupne zlepลกuje obeh krvi v tele a tรฝm aj lezeckรบ vytrvalosลฅ. Veฤพa lezcov mรก problรฉm s preลฅaลพovanรญm chytov, ฤo znamenรก, ลพe pouลพรญvajรบ viacej sily ako je potrebnรฉ na udrลพanie chytu. To zรกroveลˆ spรดsobuje, ลพe svaly sa nestihnรบ dostatoฤne uvoฤพniลฅ pri pohybu z chytu do chytu. Pri trรฉningu tejto techniky postupne len s jednou rukou sa ฤlovek automaticky nauฤรญ vypustiลฅ a uvoฤพniลฅ svaly v predlaktรญ pri nasledujรบcom pohybe, keฤลพe ruka bude chvรญฤพku oddychovaลฅ pred dochytenรญm ฤalลกieho chytu. Nezaberie veฤพa ฤasu neลพ si pri trรฉningu ฤlovek uvedomรญ, ลพe automaticky vypรบลกลฅa spodnรบ ruku hneฤ po dochytenรญ alebo zniลพuje kontaktnรบ silu na minimum. Tรฝm, ลพe sa sรบstredรญลก na pustenie a uvoฤพnenie budeลก maลฅ zรกroveลˆ vรฝhodu mikro-sklepania pri nasledujรบcom pohybe, priฤom sa stรกle mรดลพe jednaลฅ o sรฉriu ลฅaลพkรฝch krokov. Zaujรญmavรฉ je, ลพe keฤ sa pozrieme na lezcov Svetovรฉho pohรกra, ich ลกtรฝl je podobnรฝ - vรคฤลกinou zamknรบลฅ na chyte a spraviลฅ pohyb tak kontrolovane, ako sa len dรก, aby pri ลˆom mohli na malรบ chvรญฤพku sklepaลฅ. Tento ลกtรฝl mรก vรฝhodu aj v tom, ลพe namiesto polo-dynamickรฉho dochytenia chytu, pri ktorom je spotrebovanรฉ veฤพkรฉ mnoลพstvo sily, je dochytenie nasledujรบceho chytu plynulรฉ a statickรฉ.

Late Christmas Gifts
21 December 2016

Late Christmas Gifts

Climbers-Fingers have some late funny climbing Christmas gifts for you: Puzzle with 1 000 brikcs, stickers and the calendar. "2pcs of our English calendar A3 - only 30โ‚ฌ including shipping to all over the world. Delivery to Europe in 3 to 5 working days."

Orangutan training follow up
Climb like an orangutan and improve your endurance is the most credited article of 2016 when it comes to feedback through emails and facebook (including follow up questions). Even some trainers have given thumbs up. Some people said that they could feel the change in their technique after just a few sessions, and that it spreads quickly among their friends. Here are some follow up thoughts and answers: The whole Orangutan climbing exercise idea aims to make you climb more relaxed, using your muscle fibers less, which eventually will improve your blood circulation and endurance. Many climbers have a problem with over-gripping, meaning that you use more strength than needed and also that you do not let go of the tension in your forearm muscles as the hand moves between different holds. If you start practicing climbing with just one hand at a time, you will learn to automatically relax and let go of tension in the moving forearm, which will allow it to rest for a few seconds before grabbing the next hold. It won't take too many hours training with the Orangutan technique before you notice that you automatically try to let go of the lower hand and reduce the used contact strength as much as possible. By always focusing on letting go, you will also have the benefit of getting a micro-shake while moving the hand to the next hold, which will save energy for executing harder moves. In fact, looking at the World Cup climbers, you can see that their style normally is to lock off and to do as controlled moves as possible, in order to get a micro-shake. Further more, this style has also the advantage that instead of grabbing the next hold semi-dynamically with an uncontrolled exaggerated landing power, you grab the next hold smoothly and statically.

Denguin a Shin vyhrali prvรฝ oficiรกlny Svetovรฝ pohรกr v ฤพadovom lezenรญ 2016
UIAA vydalo celรฝ sumรกr udalostรญ prvรฉho Svetovรฉho pohรกra v ฤพadovom lezenรญ 2016, ktorรฝ sa konal v americkom Durangu. (c) Blake Ward/UIAA Vรฝsledky: 1. Alexey Dengin (RUS) - Woonseon Shin (KOR) 2. Nikolai Kuzovlev (RUS) - Angelika Rainer (ITA) 3. Maxim Tomilov (RUS) - Eimir McSwiggan (IRE)

Alex Puccio wins again and does an 8B in Hueco
Alex Puccio has done her 15th 8B, Tierre De Sienne in Hueco Tanks. The day before she won her sixth comp in a row, Birmingham Alabama, since her spinal fusion five months ago. (c) Kim Puccio "Left Hueco to do a competition this weekend, won the comp, got back late last night and now today I got another gift! felt good to send! getting stronger!!! :)" In February, the runner-up in the World Championsship 2014, plans to do the US Nationals but she is not sure if she will do the World Cup 2016. Here are her thoughts regarding the Olympics. "The Olympics is good for our sport in a whole I believe. It will bring more money and attention to climbing and I think it will help even inspiring professional outdoor climbers as well. I guess we will see! I personally will probably try out, whatever that is, to be be selected. Even tho I don't really agree or like the purposed format for the Olympics it would be really cool to say you competed in it. Again, we will see!