NEWS

Two 8b flashes and two 8c+'s by Peter Dawson (18)
peter dawson has had a great trip to Spain again. He has done his first two 8b flashes and also his first two 8c+'s, Blomu R3 in Santa Linya and Joe Blau in Oliana. In the Junior 8a ranking game the 18-year-old is #6. "The most valuable lesson I can take from this trip is to enjoy the process. If it was easy it wouldnโ€™t be worth doing. If itโ€™s hard there is doubt and worry but you must keep going. Sending the route is only half the fun!" Full report on his blogspot.

Katharina Saurwein, one of the best female climbers in the world for the last ten years, has been training Austria Paraclimbers for a year in preparation for the World Championsihip in Innsbruck 2018. In order to increase their possibilities, she has started a Crowdfunding project for them. "Climbing always gave me so much joy, I found a lot of new friends, it created a lot of new goals for me and I had something to look forward to. Also it helped me over hard times, for example when my mum died. While I was climbing was the only time I could forget or at least not think about it for some time. All the Paraclimbers had hard strokes of fate and I hope that climbing will help them forget about it and their handicap, even if it's just for minutes. That's why I'm training them and why I'm so motivated for it."

9a (+) by Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert, who has done two 9a+'s in Oliana during the last two weeks, reports on Facebook that he has done Seleccio Anal in Santa Linya, calling it 9a (+). "an amazing goodbye gift after another very fun catalunya trip." (c) Elias Holzknecht What are your 2017 and Olympic plans? "I'm never 100% sure about my plans since I like spontaneous decisions, but right now I'm planning to go back to bouldering Worldcups this year. There are more reasons to it, first I'm enjoying bouldering a lot too and kind of wanna take the challenge to get back into it, it seemed to have changed a lot over the last years and I had troubles to adapt. Second I really want to travel to some crags that are best in summer and fall and that is why I probably want to skip most lead worldcups for the first time. I'm talking about Rocklands but also have some others in mind, we will see. I do have the goal to make it to the Olympic Games in 2020, still waiting for the final decisions how the qualification for it and the actual format will look like. Obviously I'm not very psyched to start training speed, but it's a sacrifice that I will take nevertheless."

Jakob Schubert si zapisuje ฤalลกie 9a (+)
Jakob Schubert v poslednรฝch dvoch tรฝลพdลˆoch preliezol v ลกpanielskej Oliane dve cesty klasifikรกcie 9a+ a nedรกvno pridal na svoje konto aj Seleccio Anal v Santa Linyi, ktorรบ si zapรญsal ako 9a (+). O preleze informoval na svojom facebooku. "Parรกdna rozlรบฤka s ฤalลกรญm veฤพmi dobrรฝm vรฝjazdom do Katalรกnska." (c) Elias Holzknecht Akรฉ sรบ tvoje plรกny na rok 2017 a ฤo hovorรญลก na Olympiรกdu? "Nikdy si nie som svojimi plรกnmi na 100% istรฝ, keฤลพe mรกm rรกd spontรกnne rozhodnutia, ale zatiaฤพ sa pre tento rok plรกnujem vrรกtiลฅ k Svetovรฉmu pohรกru v boulderingu. Je na to viacero dรดvodov, aj si momentรกlne bouldrovanie omnoho viac uลพรญvam, no takisto je pre mลˆa vรฝzvou vrรกtiลฅ sa spรคลฅ, keฤลพe sa sรบลฅaลพnรก scรฉna za poslednรฉ roky dosลฅ zmenila a mal som celkom problรฉm adaptovaลฅ sa na novรฉ pomery. Za druhรฉ chcem navลกtรญviลฅ viacerรฉ oblasti, kde sรบ najlepลกie podmienky v lete a na jeseลˆ a preto pravdepodobne po prvรฝ raz vynechรกm vรคฤลกinu kรดl Svetovรฉho pohรกra na obtiaลพnosลฅ. Hovorรญm naprรญklad o Rocklands, no rozmรฝลกฤพal som o viacerรฝch, tak uvidรญme. Mรกm v plรกne zรบฤastniลฅ sa Olympijskรฝch hier v 2020, no stรกle ฤakรกm na to, akรฝm spรดsobom bude robenรก kvalifikรกcia a ako bude vyzeraลฅ formรกt samotnรฝch pretekov. Samozrejme nie som veฤพmi nadลกenรฝ z toho zaฤaลฅ trรฉnovaลฅ rรฝchlosลฅ, no je to obeta, ktorรบ podstรบpim."

Meztรฉnlรกbas 8C ismรฉt a francia Mauglitรณl
Charles Albert posztolta a Facebookon a napokban, hogy nyitott egy รผlล‘startot a Dรฉlire onirique 8C-re Fontainebleauban (termรฉszetesen mezรญtlรกb), kรถrรผlbelรผl 10-15 szesรถn utรกn. A kb. 183cm magas Charles รบgy kommentรกlta a dologot:Kรถnnyebb a magas embereknek, most mehetek keresni valami รบj nehรฉz projรณt..." Decemberben, "Maugli" megnyitotta a La rรฉvolutionnaire 8C-t รฉs korรกbban pedig megnyitotta a direktverziรณjรกt a Le Pied ร  Coulisse 8C-nek, melyhez azt a kommentet fลฑzte: Valรณszรญnลฑleg lehetetlen mรกszรณcipล‘vel megmรกszni... EpicTV video presentation

8C barefoot in Font again for Charles Albert
Charles Albert reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of SDS to Dรฉlire onirique 8C in Fontainebleau after about 10-15 sessions. "Easy 8c for tall dudes. Gotta find new hard projects now." Charles is around 183 cm tall. In December, "Mowgli" did the FA of La rรฉvolutionnaire 8C and earlier he did the direct version of Le Pied ร  Coulisse 8C, which is considered impossible if you use shoes. EpicTV video presentation