Eva Hammelmüller, who last week sent both 9a and 8c+, has done another two 8c+’ in Oliana. The 24-year-old Austrian is the new #1 in the VL ranking game. (c) Felix Mast

La Morenita (8c+) - ” Really psyched about this line! It’s all about not getting pumped in Morrancita and having enough energy left to do a hard foot swap followed by a shoulder move. Mentally not easy, as you get a lot of time (40m to be more precise :D) to think about the crux. Soft for the grade.


Joe Blau (8c+) ”This route is SO GOOD. The lower part is a nice power endurance bloc, and the upper part is all about hanging on to amazing pockets in the beautiful gray streak. Climbed it after the rain and the last slab was a bit wet, which really strained my nerves... So happy I managed to keep it together!! 2 sessions.”

The latter one she did on her eigth straight climbing day in a row, when she also sent Crimptonite (8b+) on her first try.

How does it feel to be in the best shape of your life?
Climbing is just so much fun right now! We meet so many nice people, have a great time at the crag, and I really enjoy every single route. As the time window in which you can do good attempts is pretty short right now (especially on sunny days), I can’t climb many routes per day; however, the positive thing about this is that I don’t destroy myself completely, so I feel well rested the next day. Every time I go to bed, I am already looking forward to the next day of climbing! Unfortunately, our trip is about to end, but I am also very psyched for training sessions in the gym again!!

Oriane Bertone, who was #8 in the Paris Olympics, has done Gaïa (accroupi) (8A+) in Fontainebleau, video. This was the first 8A+ in two years for the 19-year-old, who won silver at the 2023 World Championship and has placed in the Top 8 in eleven World Cups. Overall, the French climber has completed 16 boulders graded 8B or 8B+, all between the ages of 11 and 15.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying this boulder a few weeks ago, when it was still pretty cold in Font. I put three sessions in the boulder in total; I did the stand in just a few tries (first sesh) and decided to try the low : I went back for one session in the cold (that was not very productive) and one session a few days ago with the sun and an higher temperature, and managed to do it in just a few tries :)

As you know, I’m not a very active outside climber when winter’s here, so I had to wait a little bit for some higher temperatures to arrive 😝

What have you been up to after the Paris Olympics and what are the 2025 plans?
After the games I stopped climbing for almost two months, I felt like I needed a lot more rest than I ever did, and took some time to think about the future and rest my mind and body ☺️ So now I’m back, not as strong as before for the moment but I’m slowly getting better and back at it 👊👊

For 2025, probably and hopefully some more outside climbing and a few comps too, but in short I’m gonna be concentrating on doing things I want to do and enjoy. No comps I specially want to attend for the moment, but it’ll be specified soon ☺️

Tereza Širůčková, who started 2025 by doing a 50 meter 8c+ route, has sent Michigan (8A) and Napříč Amerikou (8A+) in Sklapsko

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
Our trip to the crag came together pretty spontaneously—I realized that my bouldering session lined up with a day when I didn’t have school, so I knew I wanted to climb outdoors. At first, I had my eye on a different boulder in another crag, but then I ran into Adam [Ondra] at my home gym. He recommended this crag and sent me all the info I needed, so the decision was made.

I was beyond excited and had watched pretty much every video I could find. My plan was to try flash Michigan 8A. Unfortunately, it didn’t happen, but I wasn’t far off, and I managed to send it pretty quickly afterward. Then, I jumped on a 7C that my friends were also trying—it would have been a flash if it didn’t share the topout (which was around 5C) with Michigan.

Next up was Napříč Amerikou 8A+, which shares the first move with Michigan before breaking off to the right. I worked out the moves fast, and after about five attempts, I sent it. I couldn’t believe what had just happened—two 8As in one day! The feeling was absolutely incredible. Once the initial rush settled, I checked my video and realized my phone had fallen during the crux. I really wanted to have the footage, both for the memory and for beta on future attempts, so I gave it another go—and somehow, I sent it again. I got to relive that amazing feeling all over again.

What is next and what about comp ambitions for 2025?
Well, I’d like to go back for that 8B, and then the competition season is slowly starting to knock on the door. I only compete in lead. My main goal is to reach the top 20 at a World Cup, so we will see. But that’s more long term dream

Eliot Stephens, with four 8C’s under his belt, has done the First Ascent of Zircon (8C) in Oxwich Bay. ”The crystal project. Several days over a few years, and 4 sessions this year. Some of the smallest crimps I've held, up a slightly overhanging wall. A level up. Onwards to the next local ones.”

Can you tell us more about the FA and the process behind?Found this one tough, even though I’m not sure it’s exactly my style. It’s really basic crimp climbing, small boxes and small moves. But the holds are so bad you only have to get one wrong to mess you up. And a handful of goes holding the crux crimp is enough to end a session. I tried it in 2022 and 2023 but just didn’t make much progress so sacked it off.

It was actually a really nice process, feeling a bit closer each session but just having to stop because of skin. I tried climbing in tape but the holds were just too small. The only negative was after one session I’d have to climb in tape for a week.

Sierra Blair, who previously has sent four 8A+’, has completed The Averager (8A+) in Oak Flats. The 31-year-old retired from the World Cup Circuit in 2019, having finished in the Top 30 in all but seven of 29 events.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The Averager first came onto my radar in February of 2024 when my friend Zach Levy found the line. We worked it for two sessions and I didn’t have much luck getting anywhere on the boulder, so I decided to keep it in mind for next season. We gave the boulder the working name of “The Revenger”.

I started to properly try it when Oak Flat season began again in November 2024. The first move eluded me but I was making progress on the boulder (I could do all of the remaining moves). Matt Fultz made the trip in January 2025 and grabbed the FA, calling it The Averager. Matt’s FA opened the door for me because now I had proof that the boulder was possible. I finally stuck the first move on my eight working session of the season and snagged the send on my ninth session on the boulder. I could not be more excited to send such a long project and I cannot wait for whatever boulder is next for me.

Mikel Linacisoro has had two amazing days in Santa Linya where he first onsighted Rock fucks (8b+), then flashed La Fabelita (8c) followed by a redpoint of Seleccion natural left exit (9a).

Can you tell us more about those three amazing ticks?
Well, two or three months ago I climbed my first 8b+ onsight while I was visiting my home in the Basque Country. This time, we arrived on saturday to Santa Linya and it was raining, super humid... so after the first try of Seleccion I decided to not try it again. I wanted to rest all the day to be fresh for the next day, but I was too motivated to stay the whole day belaying... Rock Fucks was dry and in good conditions, so I decided to give it a try. I usually struggle a lot with kneebars, but this time I was able to climb quite good and found the good beta between these crazy tuffas and the big overhang. Such a great line too!

La Fabelita is a classic route in Santa Linya. I was belaying a friend the day before, and I was so psyched to try it! So while I was waiting for the shadow to come to Seleccion Natural, I could make a really good try. I climbed everything quite good and I was able to clip the chain of Fabelita. After that, when the shadow come to the main project I was so happy and motivated already.

Seleccion is an amazing king line here in Santa Linya! First day I came here in November I saw the route and I said, ”okay, this will be my next project!” I first tried it for like 5 days, more or less 8 tries. I felt good on the lower boulder problems, but broke my skin many times during the attempts and also fall on the last move like 3 times. This made everything a bit more difficult, but it was a great project until the send.

Dylan Chuat has completed Supercrackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger. ”And bam, the little Supercrack fell!! Followed by a pretty crazy session with two 8cs on the first try and an 8a on sight. Have a lovely day!”

The routes the 24-year-old refers to having done second go are Rêve de poutre (8c) and La tournée du patron (8c).

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
I had tried this route a bit back in the day, but I wasn’t strong enough and never came back to try it again until now. To send it, I came for two weekends and then two more days this week.

Allison Vest, with 14 boulders 8B and beyond under her belt, has completed The Fish-Eye Effect (8B) in Red Rock (NV). ”Took a lot for me to execute this one. The “big boy boulder” journey continues!” (c) Jon Glassberg Louder Than 11

What do you mean by ”big boy boulder” and how many sessions did it take?
In a similar vein to Booka Booka Booka (8B), Fish Eye suits the 6 foot [180+ cm] tall male climber the best because of its big spanned moves. I’m sort of on a mission to try and use my 6’2 span more and tackle some of the boulders that don’t have female ascents yet, partially because the size of the individual movement on them.

It can be a frustrating time working on these boulders because, while my arms are long, my legs are short haha so I have to find my own beta.

How tall are you?
I am 169 cm and my wingspan is 188 cm. Doing pull ups is so much harder with long levers hahaha.

Eva Hammelmüller, who last weekend sent her second 9a, has done Blanquita (8c+) in Oliana in just two sessions. ”Long moves in the first part on good holds, long moves in the second part on pretty bad holds :D I really enjoyed this route, yet my skin was not so keen at first (checked it out in the sun, though, which was't my best idea in hindsight). Returned two days later without much better skin but without sun as well, was told better beta (thanks so much again!!) and managed to send the route next go! SO PSYCHED.”

Over the last seven climbing days, the 24-year-old, has ticket a total of ten routes 8a+ and beyond including the epic flash of Mon Dieu (8a+) also in Oliana. ”This was CRAZY. Thought I'd be fast enough and didn't need a headlamp, but it turned out the sun was faster than me, and I had to feel rather than climb my way up the last 15 meters. Thanks Felix for guessing pretty well at which move I was and telling me roughly where to go. Big fight and race against the dark!”

How can you best explain being in your very best shape if your life?
This winter, my main goal was to focus on power and finger strength. However, I struggled quite a lot with colds and being sick the past few months, which is why my training quantity was pretty low. Due to this, I had to rest a lot, but maybe that had a positive effect on my max power (not on my endurance though haha). When we started our trip, I felt strong physically, and I was just SO much looking forward to rock climbing. After a few days of getting incredibly pumped, my endurance also came back, and I think the combination of these factors enables me right now to climb some pretty sick lines!

Martina Demmel, who last month adressed that she has been dealing with eating disorder for ten years, has on her second go sent both Rock fucks (8b+) and Rollito Sharma Ext.1 (8c) in Santa Linya. ”Kneebar-beta to make the top less risky;) slowly finding my flow in that style here!” (c) Vera Bakker

Can you tell us more about the trip?
We've got about 2 weeks in total to adapt to the athletic style in the cave because with our national selection comps for the WC's, there wasn't more "free" time. I'm slowly getting the necessary confidence to find my flow in those powerful moves and it's been a sweet reward to send the whole line so quickly while also making good progress in the main projects...

It's also been cool to see that I could do several dynamic & powerful moves now which I couldn't do 3 years ago... I'm pretty sure that it's connected with not giving myself enough energy back then. Such a good feeling to feel stronger now with an higher weight.