NEWS

Hukkataival 9A boulderรฉben 4 000 prรณba van!!!
Outside online magazin csapatta kรฉszรญtett egy szuper interjรบt Nallรฉval aki az elmรบlt รฉv legnagyobb fล‘hล‘se lett a 9A boulder megyitรกssal, Burden of Dreams-el. Nemrรฉg a 8a.nu szavazรกst is indรญtott arrรณl, mi volt a legnagyobb รกttรถrรฉs a tavalyi รฉvben รฉs Ondra egyhetes Dawn Wall projektje, ami a vilรกg legnehezebb 9a nehรฉzsรฉgลฑ nagyfalas รบtja - bizony bizony csak a mรกsodik helyre volt elรฉg. Mert bizony az, hogy Nalle รบj fokozatot nyitott a boulderezรฉsben; a legendรกs 9A boulder fokozatot (V17) az nem csak egy eszmรฉletlen mรฉrfรถldkล‘, hanem egyben egy pont is (mit pont felkiรกltรณjel!!!) annak a vitรกnak a vรฉgรฉn, hogy egyรกltalรกn lรฉtezhet-e a 8C+ os boulder fokozat. ร‰vekig ment a huzavona, a fel-le fokozgatรกs รฉs รญme itt a boulder feketรฉn-fehรฉren, amit Nalle tรถbb mint nรฉgyezerszer prรณbรกlt meg (4000!) tรถbb รฉv alatt. Hรกt kรญvรกncsian vรกrjuk a kisfilmet, mely Februรกr 8.-รกn dobรณdik piacra. 2010 Mรกrciusรกban รญrt egy elรฉg provokatรญv bejegyzรฉst a szemรฉlyes blogjรกn a tรบlzรกsokrรณl รฉs az รบj boulderfokozatok kรฉsล‘bbi lefokozรกsรกrรณl: "Mi mind dobรกlรณzunk a nagy fokozatokkal รฉs szรฉp flash szรกmokkal, ezรฉrt kapunk a magazinon cรญmlapot รฉs aztรกn vรฉgignรฉzzรผk, hogy nรฉhรกny hรณnappal kรฉsล‘bb a bouldereink mind lefokozรณdnak..."

Pachamama 9a+ Ondrรกtรณl รฉs รบton a kรถvetkezล‘ megaprojรณ
Adam Ondraposztolta Instagramjรกn, hogy lekรผldte a nehรฉz 9a+ -ba sorolhatรณ Pachamama-t, amit Sharma nyitott mรฉg 2009-ben รฉs azรณta is tudtommal csak ketten tudtรกk ismรฉtelni. Az egyik Ramon Julian volt, azon a hรญres nevezetes megล‘rรผlล‘s hetรฉben, amikor nรฉgy 9a feletti utat csลฑrt le Olianan. A mรกsik ismรฉtlล‘ Sachi Amma volt, aki รฉlete รบtjรกnak tartotta, 14nap melรณt tรฉve a megmรกszรกsba kรฉt รฉv alatt. "The best route in my life." -รญgy a komment. Adam To do List-jรฉn most a Chris รกltal nyitott megaprojekt variรกns szerepel, ami a Papichulo รฉs Pachamama รถsszekรถtรฉse 9b - 9b+ lehetsรฉges fokozattal. Adam instรกjรกn panaszkodott, hogy kiesett a megmentล‘ kancsรณk elล‘tt a legvรฉgรฉn รฉs tรถbbet kellett a Pachamama-val foglalkoznia mint tervezte korรกbban, "de legalรกbb be fog รฉpรผlni a projรณra, aminek ugyanez a vรฉge." Photo: Petr Piechowicz

The stats presented below are based on more than 3 000 unique votes from the poll Best Climbing shoes 2017. The results are almost identical in comparison to the last years. In brackets, you have the 2016 results. 44% La Sportiva (46) 18% Scarpa (17) 15% Five Ten (14) 10% Boreal (8) 4% Tenaya (4) 4% Other (3) (Ocun often mentioned) 3% Evolv (3) 1% Mad Rock (2)

The results shown are based on close to 2 000 unique votes from the poll Best Climbing Rope 2017. We can see that Edelrid have strengthened their position. 21% Sterling (21) 17% Beal (19) 17% Edelrid (13) 15% Mammut (17) 13% Petzl (12) 13% Tendon/Lanex (12) 5% Other (5)

4 February 2017

Best Crash Pad 2017

Based on close to 2 000 unique votes from the poll Best Crash Pad 2017. In comparison to last year, we can see that Organic have strengthened their position. 27% Organic (22) 14% Ocun (15) 11% Black Diamond (14) 9% Moon (10) 8% Other (8) (Asana most mentioned) 5% Metolius (3), 5 % Pad (5), 5 % Edelrid (4) 4% Snap (4), 4 % Petzl (5), 4 % Mad Rock (4) 3% Mammut (3)

On Bouldering reports that Sean McColl and Daniel Woods (9 times champion) did not make it into the Top-20 semifinal in the USA Nationals. Alexey Rubtsov and Ashima Shiraishi won the qualifications. There were 118 males competing in one group meaning that some had to stay more than 9 hours in Iso. Semi live streaming starts at 9.50 UTC -7, 5.50 Euro time.

9a+ by Adam Ondra on the way to a harder project
Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done Pachamama 9a+ in Oliana. Photo: Petr Piechowicz "Next on the list is an amazing linkup bolted by Chris Sharma of Papichulo and Pachamama," which Adam says could be 9b hard or even 9b+. In total, the Lead World Champion of the last two years has done 43 routes 9a+ and harder. In the three last Boulder World Championships, he got one gold and two silver medals. The big question for 2017 is whether the Czech is going for the Olympics or not.

9a again by Piotr Schab during a surreal day in Santa Linya
Piotr Schab has done his eighth 9a, Ciudad dos Dios in Santa Linya. "SURREAL DAY! I wanted to optimize the betas, but stuck the crux and somehow managed to finish the route. 3rd go, can't believe it!" Before the big send, Piotr had done one 8c (+) on his second go and an 8c as the plan was to do just an endurance training due to rather poor conditions! In the 8a ranking game, the 20-year-old Pole is #3.