Giuliano Cameroni, who has done three 8B+'s during the last three weeks, has just conquered Der mit dem Fels tanzt 8C in Chironico. "3rd ascent. Splendid moves. Have I really done an 8C boulder today?" "First I tried Insanity, which took me four days (this year) to complete. Then I switched to Big Kat (three days this year) and after that I went back again to the right side of the boulder and did Der mit dem Fels tanzt in two more days." Here is his new Ticino video.

Piotr Schab je zdá sa vo svojej životnej forme. V španielskej Santa Lynii sa mu podarilo vyliezť cestu Analogica 9a a potreboval na to len štyri pokusy. (C) Adam Kokot Čo stojí za Tvojou momentálnou top formou? "Myslím si, že je to skôr postupný proces. Poslednú zimu sme začali trénovať čistú silu a stanovili sme si dlhodobejší plán. Bolo to kopu driny, trénoval som spolu s trénerom, fyzioterapeutom aj s lezeckou partiou. Postupne som sa začal cítiť lepšie v ťažších krokoch a cestách. Táto nová sila, ktorú pociťujem počas celého prvého týždňa tu v Španielsku je pre mňa stále prekvapením, no takáto "nová" pozícia sa mi veľmi páči. Ako som vravel, máme aj dlhodobejšie plány, ktoré zahŕňajú aj snahu o 9b :)"

By analysing stats from Similarweb, we can see that 8a.nu is the leading global sport climbing website as all competitors get most of their traffic from their country of origin. The 8a visitors are, on the contrary, evenly spread around the globe. The most interesting fact, however, is that 84% of the 8a visitors come "direct" instead of just clicking on a link on Facebook or Google. Here are the comparison stats. 84% 8a.nu 41% UKC (44% from "Google" & 66% from UK) 32% PlanetM (40% from "Google" & 49% from Italy) 28% R&I (40% comes from social media & 48% from USA) 25% Climbing (43% from "Google" & 49% USA) In the Google and social media era, getting 84% of the traffic direct is extremely good and unique for a global social community like 8a.nu. This also shows a great potential to grow.

Po analýze dát zo Similarweb sme zistili, že 8a.nu je z globálneho hľadiska najúspešnejším lezeckým webom na svete. Väčšina ostatných webov má návštevníkov priamo z krajiny, kde boli vytvorené, kedžto počet návštevníkov 8a je rovnomerne rozložený medzi viacero krajín. Zaujímavý je však aj fakt, že 84% z tých, čo navštívia 8a.nu zadajú adresu "priamo" a nejdú cez link na Googli či Facebooku. Tu je štatistické porovnanie 8a a ďalších populárnych lezeckých webov: 84% 8a.nu 41% UKClimbing (44% from "Google" & 66% z Británie) 32% PlanetMountain (40% from "Google" & 49% z Talianska) 28% Rock&Ice (40% zo sociálnych médií & 48% z USA) 25% Climbing Magazine (43% z "Google" & 49% z USA) V dnešnej ére sociálnych médií, kde globálne weby ako Google a Facebook sprostredkuvávajú linky na mnohé stránky je veľkým úspechom mať 84% "priamych" návštevníkov. Zároveň to však poukazuje na potenciál, ktorý 8a má.

Nathaniel Coleman and Alex Puccio have won the USA Bouldering Nationals, being ahead of Kai Lightner (17) and Ashima Shiraishi (15). Alexey Rubtsov and Brooke Raboutou (15) were third. For Alex it was the tenth time she won! Complete results. It is interesting that Coleman was #9 in the semi and having started first in the final he flashed all four problems. Overall, the results shows again that it seems to be an advantage to start first climbing with less pressure and better friction on fresh holds. The scoring system is not the standard IFSC scheme. Instead, the climbers are ranked individually on each problem which is later summed up. However, the first ranking criteria is the number of tops. This means that if you get a really poor result on one boulder this will have a very negative impact. Sean McColl was ranked #116.5 out of 123 competitors on the last boulder which made him just miss the semi even if he had done the first three boulders in just five tries. With IFSC rules, which focus mainly on your best results, he would have made it to the semi. The biggest drawback of the USA scoring format that it is very hard to follow and analyse the results before everyone has competed.

Rubén Díaz has done the 2nd ascent of La Teoría del Todo 8C (8C+), Iván Luengo's problem of which Alberto Rocasolano did the FA, calling it an 8C+, which was was the Spaniard's first suggestion of this grade. (C) Iván Luengo Rubén says: "Don't know what an 8C+ is and that's why I think it's a solid 8C." Note that Beto has repeated all the 8C proposals in Spain, including even Crisis, Nacho Sánchez's 8C/8C+ in Crevillente.

Yesterday Beto Rocasolano did his first 8B flash, Pin y Pon, an old project of which Nacho Sánchez did the FA and which had remained unrepeated since then. (c) Israel Olcina He wrote on Instagram: Today the planets where aligned and accompanied by my sensei Israel Olcina could flash Pin y Pon 8B and then Gorila 8A+(8A)". FA video by Nacho Sánchez to be watched here.

Po súčte viac ako 3000 hlasov môžeme odprezentovať, aká je podľa vás najepšia voľba lezečky pre rok 2017. Tieto výsledky sa skoro na chlp zhodujú s výsledkami z predchádzajúceho roku. Čísla z roku 2016 sú uvedené v zátvorkách. 44% La Sportiva (46) 18% Scarpa (17) 15% Five Ten (14) 10% Boreal (8) 4% Tenaya (4) 4% Other (3) (Často zmieňovaný bol Ocún) 3% Evolv (3) 1% Mad Rock (2)

Výsledky hlasovania o najlepšie lano pre rok 2017. Oproti minulému roku si najviac polepšil Edelrid. 21% Sterling (21) 17% Beal (19) 17% Edelrid (13) 15% Mammut (17) 13% Petzl (12) 13% Tendon/Lanex (12) 5% Other (5)

Adam Ondra oznámil na Instagrame, že sa mu podarilo preliezť cestu Pachamama 9a+ v Oliane. Photo: Petr Piechowicz "Ďalším na zozname je parádne spojenie ciest Papichulo a Pachamama, ktoré navŕtal Chris Sharma..." hovorí Adam a dodáva, že obtiažnosťou by to mohlo byť 9b, možno aj 9b+. Adam drží titul svetového šampióna na obtiažnosť už dva roky po sebe a za svoju kariéru vyliezol 43 ciest obtiažnosti 9a+ a ťažšie. Na majstrovstvách sveta v boulderingu získal dvakrát striebro a raz zlato. Či má Adam olympijské plány zatiaľ nevieme. Spolu s Adamom je v španielsku aj mladý slovenský borec Tomáš Plevko a sme zvedaví, ako sa mu zadarí. Držíme palce!