NEWS

Paul Robinson upgrades to 8B+
Paul Robinson has done House of Doom in Hueco Tanks suggesting an upgrade to 8B+ of this problem Daniel Woods put up in 2011. "Great addition Daniel! This thing is so much harder than any other 8B+ on the mountain!" It is very important to have guys like Paul Robinson and Adam Ondra who actually dare to upgrade. There are so many super lines waiting to get more traffic if just somebody would care to upgrade them.

Pioneering the Uncharted life is our Lifestyle
Paul Robinson presents the Uncharted lines quality film about being a pioneer and his lifestyle which he shares with guys like Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods, Chris Sharma and Niky Ceria, featured in the one hour film. Jimmy Webb gets the last word and sums up, "Once it is done, you are satisfied for just that moment, just that small amount of time and shortly after, you find yourself thinking, - That was sick but what is next! And that is just how we are, what we do. I don't think that will ever change."

Felipe Camargo won USD 35 000 on Netflix Beastmaster
Felipe Camargo won among 108 challengers from Brazil, Usa, Mexico, Japan, Korea, Germany the Netflix Ultimate Beastmaster. The prize was USD 35,000! "It was pretty cool! I won the show and the final was together with a Korean who is ex world champion in ice climbing!!" In 2007, the Brazilian was #27 in the Lead World Champion when he was 16 years old. Later he has done three 9a's and also two 8C boulders. He is also one of the guys that have put up many hard core routes and boulders in Brazil.

Ki a fene az a Jim Holloway? โ€“ egy morzsรกnyi tรถrtรฉnelem 1.rรฉsz
Pรกr hete egy Bubb Feri telefon kapcsรกn merรผlt fel a tรฉma, magam is meglepล‘dtem โ€“ mennyire kikerรผlt ez az รšr a mรกszรณ tรถrtรฉnelembล‘l, pedig igazรกn รฉrdemes lenne pรกr szรณban megemlรญteni. รšgy lรกtszik John Gill รกrnyรฉkรกban sajnos szรกmos kemรฉny arc elfelejtล‘dรถtt. Az ล‘ tรถrtรฉnete azรฉrt kรผlรถnรถs, mert 1975-ben (tรถbb mint 40 รฉvvel ezelล‘tt!) megnyitotta elvileg az elsล‘ 8A+ bouldert a vilรกgon (Trice), melyet aztรกn majdnem 30 รฉvig nem tudott megismรฉtelni senki. Hogy ez az รบt jellegรฉnek vagy Jim 193cm magassรกgรกnak kรถszรถnhetล‘ azt nem tudni, mindenesetre a helyiek elmondรกsaibรณl fogalommรก vรกltak a Holloway boulderek. A nehรฉzsรฉgi fokok besorolรกsรกra sajรกtos nehรฉzsรฉgi skรกlรกt hozott lรฉtre; (JHE โ€“ Jim Holloway Easy, JHM โ€“ medium รฉs JHH โ€“ hard). A Trice nevลฑ bouldert Coloradoban vรฉgรผl Carlo Traversi ismรฉtelte elsล‘kรฉnt 2007-ben รฉs fokozta be az amerikai V12 fokozatba (8A+). A mรกsik nagy vad a mรฉg kevรฉsbรฉ ismรฉtelt Slapshot ami 77-ben szรผletett รฉs az emlegetett fokozata csak azรฉrt lett 8A+, mert ez is a hรญres Holloway hรกrmasba tartozott. Kรฉsล‘bb szรกmos fogรกsmorzsolรณdรกs kรถvetkezett be, de az รบt jelenlegi 8B-re titulรกlt fokozata mรฉg megerล‘sรญtรฉsre vรกr. Az รถreg termรฉszetesen ezeket a bouldereit chraspadek nรฉlkรผl mรกszta, ami mรฉg egy fokot emel az old schoolba minล‘sรญtรฉsen. Vรฉgรผl a mรกszรกssal felhagyva emberรผnk bicikliversenyzล‘ lett, de Coloradoban mรกig ott az a tรถbb szรกz V3-V8 boulder โ€“ amit fennhagyott az utรณkor szรกmรกra. ร‰rdekes cikk az alรกbbi linken.

Beginners Guide to Yoga
Prana presents Beginners guide to Yoga. Many of the best climbers in the world practice yoga and it is also very useful to be flexible. "Best of all, you can start today. Right now. Read through the guide below and remember to have fun with it and go at your own pace. The only requirement? Forget what you think you know about yoga."

beta.8a.nu mobilnรก platforma
beta.8a.nu je naลกou novou strรกnkou pre mobily s niekoฤพkรฝmi novรฝmi ลกikovnรฝmi funkciami. 1. Novรฉ vyhฤพadรกvanie oblastรญ a ciest optimalizovanรฉ pre mobily 2. "Najbliลพลกie oblasti" sa dajรบ vyhฤพadaลฅ pomocou Tvojej lokรกcie a mรดลพeลก si nรกjsลฅ aj inลกtrukcie, ako sa k nim dostaลฅ autom 3. Oddelenรฉ Novinky a Video 4. Zdieฤพanie na Facebooku, Twitteri atฤ. ฤŽalลกรญm plรกnom je priniesลฅ jednoduchรฝ a rรฝchly spรดsob, ako si cez mobil zapรญsaลฅ prelez.

The Lead European Championship starts in Italy 30/6 and in the final, the max time will be six minutes instead of previous eight minutes. Even with eight minutes in the World Cup in 2016, the females were sometimes timed out or were often forced to climb the last moves very fast, which made them fall. With a change to six minutes in the final, it is about time for Garnbret, Verhoeven, Rรถck, Markovic, Kim and others who want to be on the podium to change climbing style. In practice, this will mean no more hanging around, trying different beta and chalking. Right from the start they need to climb fast to save time for the more difficult finish. The other change of rules is that there will not be 4+ minutes in the boulder finals but instead a maximum time of four minutes. In practice this also means that the best boulderer should focus slightly more on endurance in their training for the Boulder WC 2017. IFSC reports that the rules handbook 2017 will be released very soon.

8A+ again by Alex Puccio
28 February 2017

8A+ again by Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio has done her 41st boulder graded 8A+, Pull the Plug in Hueco Tanks. The Silver medalist in the World Champion in 2014 has previously also done 16 8B's and two 8B+ making her the best ever female boulderer. (c) Matt Wilder "Unique climbing on this one. Tried on one of our last days last trip and finished it off first day, first thing this trip. My tips are still healing so psyched I was able to do this one with a taped up finger. :)"

beta.8a.nu responsive mobile site
beta.8a.nu is our new responsive site for mobile phones with some new smart functions. 1. New Crag and Ticklist search optimized for mobile 2. Search "Nearby Crags" based on you location and get driving instructions. 3. Separated News and Video pages 4. Share to FB and Twitter etc Next on the list is to develop a very easy and quick way to add routes with your mobile.