Alex Norton, whose personal best was one 8c+ climbed two years ago, has sent Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. His journey to this ascent, along with his plans for 2025, reflects the ultimate dream of a 24-year-old climber—balancing a deep passion for the sport with his academic path as a PhD student in Sociology. His research explores the experiences of long-term homelessness in the UK.

”Climbing Estado has been a great experience for me. It's really one of the best bits of climbing I've ever been on and having that head wall where you can just fight and fight really made it for me. It's one of the best processes I've had trying a route.

I checked the route out for a day or so last February and to be honest got totally shut down and intimidated, i went straight to Margalef to get on some pockets. This New Year I’d planned a trip with a bunch of mates from the UK. I was meant to be out for 2 weeks and I thought id just spend a day on Estado to see how it felt in between sessions at Margalef again. My mate Arlo Rogers convinced me to get back on it and I was immediately taken by the route, I felt like a different climber instantly and far more comfortable. I put some days into the climb and then extended my trip to try to finish it. I didn't end up doing it in January but felt so close that I knew I was coming back. We celebrated Arlos' accent of the route by pulling an all-nighter in Barcelona before getting a 7am flight back to Birmingham.

I then spent the next 4 weeks heading to the Foundry and School Room in Sheffield training hard with Estado in mind. Being at El Pati with good mates made days at the crag really special. Learning how to approach such a long route from trying this with Eder Lomba and Arlo helped a lot and coming back down to cornudella to share beers with everyone after long days at the crag is probably what made the whole thing so unstressful, it's been a unique moment on this route where redpointing really didn't feel that stressful!

I’ve got a few more days before coming back to the UK now. I might have a look at some hard routes in Margalef before I leave, possibly Victimas del Futur! I'm heading to America as well soon after I'm back in Sheffield, we've planned a little road trip checking out BIshop and Yosemite with the goal of getting absolutely terrified on Freerider. I'm also hoping to return to the Frankenjura at some point this year to try and finish Action Direct and to be honest I'm pretty excited for some days back on longstanding projects at Ravens Tor and Malham Cove.”

Laura Rogora, with ten 9a’s under her belt just the six last months, has repeated Gio Placci’s Tre Mou Polacche (9a) in Arco. The 23-year-old climbed her first 9a at age 14 and has since completed around 40 routes graded 8c+/9a or harder—an exceptional achievement among female climbers. The Italian athlete has also been a strong competitor, winning two World Cups and claiming gold medals in both Lead and Combined at last year’s European Championship. (c) Nicollo Pieri

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the route for the first time in January, but it was extremely cold, and I couldn't really try it properly. However, I understood that it was a cool line, so I wanted to come back.

Ten days ago, I tried it again and figured out the moves. I came back last Sunday, and after improving the sequences, I made a promising attempt, falling on the last hard move.

Yesterday, I had all the beta in mind, and on my first try, I made it to the chain. The route is divided into two hard sections, separated by a good rest. The second section is really cool and complex, with a lot of options.

Alexandra Boyadzhieva and Isabelle Gibbs have ticked Lethal Design (8A+) in Red Rock (NV). The long endurance boulder has been recorded in the database 155 times, with over 25 of those by female climbers and Isabelle comments. ”Every girls first v12! (I am girls).”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Lethal suited me really well. Agro crimping for 20+ moves. I tried the boulder a handful of times over the past 10 months. I’m based in Los Angeles currently so it’s about a 5 hour drive to Las Vegas. I almost didn’t go on the weekend I sent as January and February are busy for me at work so I hadn’t been able to climb as much as I’d like. My fiancé encouraged me to try anyways. I sent Sunday morning on the first try from the bottom that day. Nobody else at the boulder or the surrounding boulders which is unheard of for the Kraft area. A great intro into the grade.

Can you possibly share a picture of both you and Alexandra?
I actually don’t know Alexandra at all. She was walking up to the boulder right when I was packing up to leave so unfortunately no pictures of us together. Just a crazy coincidence we both sent on the same day.

Later Alexandra has also sent Baggins Left Exit (8A+) in Little Cottonwood. ”Crazy week 4 me?”

Iris Bielli, who did her first 8c last year, has ticked C'era una volta in America (8c) in Cornalba. (c) Nabil Rossi

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
C’era una volta in America is a historic route characterized by technical and fingery climbing alternating with more powerful sections that require some dynamic moves. Over the winter I decided to give it a try even though I was mainly focused on university studies and training. I had a good impression from the first attempt, but over the five days I tried, I struggled to maintain the concentration needed to complete it.

In the last two weeks I was finally able to take a break and return to rock climbing with a better mindset. Last Sunday in fact, I managed to climb Anarchia in 3 attempts; it’s an 8b+/c on a leaning slab that perfectly suits my climbing style. Then, this Sunday, I returned to Cornalba with the right determination. After one go to review the moves, I closed the route. I'm happy with this achievement as it represents a small step out of my comfort zone.

Stefano Ghisolfi, who three weeks ago sent The full journey (9b) in Margalef, has repeated Chris Sharma’s Sleeping Lion (9b) in Siurana. In total the Italian has done 14 routes 9b and beyond. His goal is to send two more 9b’s in different crags during this trip. (c) Sara Grippo

How was the process taking it down?
I tried it the first time in November 2023 at the Siurana climbing festival. Them I came back this year and I started trying it again at the same time as The Full Journey. I did a total of 11 days on it, I fell 3 times at the top crux.

Which crags and 9b routes are coming up next?
Santa Linya for Neanderthal first, then Oliana for Fight or Flight.

Le Bombé Bleu is a legendary project in Buoux bolted by Marc Le Menestrel in 1991. Many of the best climbers in the world have tried it, and possibly Nico Pelorson has gotten the closest after projecting it for four sessions where he finally tried it without shoes.

It starts with an 8-meter 7a intro until you reach a big balcony. From there, a couple of moves on jugs followed directly by the crux.

Have you done all moves and possibly the route with one hang?
Yes, I did the route from the 2nd move three times. One time I did the first move but I did it with the lower quickdraw in my right hand, not the hold (;

Can you describe the crux move?
The crux is a cup and ball movement. You have to jump with your feet from a ledge and your left hand in a small mono that is just the size of two fingers and the right in an undercling. If you get your fingers well in the next two finger pocket it is not very hard to hold the swing. But 99 times out of 100 you aim a little to the side.

Do you plan to continue the project?
I would like to, but I need to find someone motivated also to try it for at least three months. The route is in a somewhat isolated area. There are not many other routes nearby. It is not easy to find belayers.

Alex Megos has flashed Ben Moon’s Agincourt (8c) and La chiquette du graal (8b+) during a six days climbing trip to Buoux, where he also tried a famous 9? project.

Can you tell us more about the preperation and the running beta for the flashes?
I just got a tiny bit of beta while I was climbing. I mostly watched my friend Felix [Neumärker] on it twice and had him explain the holds to me. We also watched the video from Seb Bouin.

What is the story of the picture?
It's some street art on a ruin (destroyed house) just before the parking of the area. Someone thought it would be cool to have some climbing graffiti. It's Patrick Edlinger*.

What about the Bombé Bleu famous project?
After a couple of days on the route it didn't feel possible yet. You need a very strong big toe 😂. Bombe Bleau is really hard and very very specific. The first jump is very very hard, but for sure possible. It will be very tricky to actually stick the move from the ground. And then you still have the rest of the route after that.

Did you manage to do all other hard moves?
Not even close actually. After the first jump there are still a lot of hard moves. Nico Pelorson does the sequences without shoes to be able to use his big toe in the pockets. I also tried that but I had absolutely no chance without shoes. The problem is, also with shoes I had no chances of doing the moves. It felt hard, awkward and one pocket is quite small.

* Patrick Edlinger (1960–2012) was a French rock climber and one of the pioneers of free solo climbing. He gained fame in the 1980s for his bold ascents without ropes, and sending several 8c’s during the 80’ies, including the second ascent of Agincourt. Known for his grace, strength, and mental focus, Edlinger helped popularize sport climbing through films like La Vie au Bout des Doigts (1982) and Opéra Vertical (1983). His influence on modern climbing was immense, inspiring generations of climbers with his philosophy of movement and dedication to the sport.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo finished his trip to Flatanger last summer, where he sent two 9b+', by ticking Illusionist (9a).

Martina Demmel, who last week first did two 8c+’ in Santa Linya , has completed another two last weekend.

Open your mind (8c+): ”The curiosity was back to go "A muerte" in these athletic moves! Prime cold condis brought the friction on another level. The "nothing to loose" mindset on the wall let me commit enough, especially for its 3 big moves. After already surprising myself in my 2nd try, I remembered all my footholds what let me flow to the chains the next try including a little power-scream!!”

La Fabela (8c+): ”Several out of my comfort-zone moves and plenty of possible solutions for all hard sections... I've been 1-hanging it from the first day on, but kept on falling in the upper crux (6 times around the pinch)... finally my body was just executing the choreographie! Completing this classic makes me really proud:)) (what's a rare thing for me to say)!”

How can you best explain your super shape?
While I was in police school in fall & winter, I had about 3,5 months of only training inside, mainly for the lead comps. The weeks before coming here, I already felt like I could fight longer in lead routes but also my max strength improved, so I was glad that it reflected also in how I was feeling in the cave. It took about 10 days to adapt to the athletic style because my body felt really destroyed after the first days only climbing in steep terrain. To not force any send too much was another challenge on its own. Accepting to walk away without finishing my proj's brought me the necessary confidence and joy on the wall to start the send-train;)!

Pepa Šindel, who did his first 9a at age 15, has done Capricorn (8c+) and Nid De Fadas (9a) in Leonidio.

Can you tell us more about the trip?
I flew to Leonidio with my brother Venca for a week and my main goal was Capricorn. However, I managed to send it on the first day on the third attempt. I felt quite strong so I started looking for something harder. I was recommended the route Nid de Fadas in the Nifada sector. Right after the first go, I started to get obsessed with it as how nice it was. The beginning is very overhanging with long moves on on good holds and pockets, then there is a kneebar in which you can't rest too much, but you can concentrate on the following CRUX, which is surprisingly a Frankenjura style boulder on one and two finger pockets. In the middle of the boulder, there is a bad clipping and a risk of a groundfall, so I had to extend the quickdraw twice. The second half of the boulder are long pumpy moves on small crimps. After that comes a nohand kneebar rest and an overhanging finnish on nice jugs. You just have to watch out that you dont get pumped too much. The last disturbing part were the last two meters where the holds were wet. According to my information, this is the second repetition.