NEWS

More details to come but the live-streaming will be free tomorrow from the semi and final from Meiringen.

With 115 male participants, many big names failed to make the Top-20 semifinal: Narasaki, Bonder, Schubert, Skofic, Hori, McCall, Piccolruaz, Woods, Landman, Gelmanov, Verhoeven. The boulders were very nice and we did see many top-outs even from many guys lower down in the list. The biggest sensation was Thilo Schrรถter from Norway who was #3. Last week, he was featured on 8a as he is #1 in the flash ranking. Five Japanese made it and in fact, they had seven guys Top-21. Complete results

7 April 2017

IFSC costs

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_competitions/Event_regulations/IFSC_Fee_System_2017-18_Approved.pdf

Three of the big names; Akiyo Noguchi, Margo Hayes and Anna Stรถhr did not make it to the semi Top-20. Complete results

7-day free trial but the "Join" link does not work
FloClimbing has based on the critiscism towards the USD 20 monthly to watch the streaming, commented. "We hear you, and we're offering a 7-day free trial for FloPRO subscribers on FloClimbing.com starting later today and lasting for the rest of this month. In addition, the archives for our April events will be available on-demand, without a subscription, three days after each event." Strangely enough, the link where you are supposed to click on to "Join", does not work. The live-streaming starts on Saturday 11.00 European time followed by the finals at 18.30.

IFSC has created a new Media Policy and based on one person who showed the qualifications live on Facebook and was told to stop. "Level 2 (press) may NOT film Semi-Finals/Finals. However, Level 2 may film Qualifications, provided that o Total footage used is no greater than 5 minutes per discipline; o Videos clearly state from which IFSC event, discipline and round they came. Event media desiring additional footage of the competition must negotiate license fees with the IFSC at least 1 week prior to the event. Filming, LIVE broadcasting or uploading footage of IFSC events without prior authorization is strictly prohibited. The IFSC reserves the right to claim for removal and/or monetisation of this content." In practice this means that Udo Neumann will not any longer be allowed to put together analyses from the events. It is not yet known if coaches are still allowed to film.

Normal free live-streaming at Youtube at 11.00 and 18.30 GMT+2
There will be normal live-streaming at Youtube from the semi and final on Saturday at 11.00 and 18.30, according to IFSC. This is what Floclimbing have posted. "UPDATE: Due to circumstances beyond our control, we will no longer be able to provide live coverage of the IFSC World Cup event in Meiringen on April 8. We apologize for the inconvenience. Visit the IFSC website for details on the event."

79 female and 116 are registered to compete this weekend in the first Boulder World Cup of 2017 which can be compared with 59 and 84 participants last year. This means an increase of 36 % for athletes competing. The live streaming starts 11.00 on Saturday with the semifinals followed by the finals at 18.30. However, you need to pay USD 20 per month for watching the World Cups during 2017. In the world ranking, the first European male is Jeremy Bonder #7. 1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Shauna Coxsey GBR 2. Kokoro Fujii JPN - Miho Nonaka JPN 3. Alexey Rubtsov RUS - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4. Jongwon Chon KOR - Melissa Le Neve FRA 5. Rustam Gelmanov RUS - Petra Klingler SUI

Action Directe 9a by Stephan Vogt
Stephan Vogt has after some 23 days of projecting done the 19th repeat of Wolfgang Gรผllich Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura. Last year his hardest route was 8b as he almost only focused on AD. Already last summer he fell on the last move and his hardest challenge was not to put too much pressure on himself going for it again. (c) Vaidotas Monstaviฤius "On a rainy day with terrible conditions, the first mono, first important foothold and the entire topout being completely soaked, it happens. I was so sure that I wouldn't send it that day but I guess that was exactly what I needed. It is such a rewarding feeling to have a goal for so many years and then finally succeed! I am so grateful to have such great people around me! Thank you for supporting and believing in me! I couldn't have done this without you!!!!"

รprilis eleji sikerek
A hรฉtvรฉge nem telt eredmรฉnytelenรผl a pesti bandรกnak, avagy hรกt igen... "kรผlfรถldรถn is รถsszefรบjja a szemetet a szรฉl" - ahogy mondani szokรกs. A homeless lifestyle-t รฉlล‘ Barabรกs Gรกbor รฉs a jelenleg รฉletmลฑvรฉszkedล‘ Fidy Marci csaptak a lovak kรถzรฉ fรฉlรบton Zรผrich รฉs Innsbruck kรถzรถtt; Bรผrs festล‘i vidรฉkรฉn. A kรถzรถs mรกszรกs eredmรฉnye Gabรณtรณl kรฉt 7c+ second-go a mรกszรณnapok vรฉgรฉn (Black Orpheus รฉs Quadrophenia). De azรฉrt a MarCi sem hagyta el magรกt, kรฉt nappal kรฉsล‘bb Berglsteiner See-n lecsลฑri a Move it 7c+/8a nehรฉzsรฉgลฑ utat - harmadik prรณbรกra! Nice! Szlovรฉniรกban is forrt a vidรฉk. Pรกr napja miรณta megtudtam, hogy van 'gyerekes mรกszรณk' facebook csoport azon is agyalok, miรฉrt van az a felfogรกs itthon - hogy a gyerkล‘c megรกllรญtja a sportkarriert รฉs utรกna mรกr csak a chilles mรกszรกsra marad erล‘ รฉs energia?! Mivel nincs tapasztalatom nem รผres szavakat szeretnรฉk vaktรกban dobรกlgatni, csak ha egy orszรกggal nyugatabbra tekintรผnk akkor mรฉgis a szektorok nagy rรฉszรฉben lรกtni a kis csemetรฉket amikor anyu รฉs apu รฉpp szuperhล‘sรถset jรกtszik a falon. De tisztelet a kivรฉtelnek; pl. az orszรกg legnehezebb รบtjรกtnak szรกmรญtรณ Zed is dead-et (8c/+) รron mรกr kis csalรกdjรกval maga mellett tette oda! Most pedig a tavaly 8b nehรฉzsรฉgi fokozatot elรฉrt Bรกn Tamรกsnak sikerรผlt javรญtani egyet a personal rekordokon รฉs megmรกszta az elsล‘ "egy nap alatt" รถsszerakott 7c+ nehรฉzsรฉgลฑ รบtjรกt Kotecniken, az Oboki szektorban talรกlhatรณ Misija-t.