NEWS

9b and 9a in a day by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra publishes on his Instagram that yesterday he did Stefano Ghisolfi's Lapsus 9b in Andonno, Italy. The same day, after two hours driving, he also did Perfect Man 2.0 9a on the 2nd go in Castelbianco. (C) Jan Novak "Lapsus 9b in Andonno gets its second ascent today after @steghiso. Amazing conditions and feeling pretty strong today. It was so good that we drove down to Castelbianco the same afternoon and I did 2nd go ascent of Perfect Man 2.0 9a after @Matteo_gambaro. Planet Mountain has got some comments from Adam.

Ondra's advice to the kids - onsight and varied styles
Adam Ondra did his first ever interview with 8a when he was 11 years old, where he said; "I always try to climb as many routes of the grade OS (now, it is 8b). I usually don't try harder things for a long time. If I see a nice route, no matter the grade or the character, I want to climb it. Cracks too. I aim to climb all types of routes on various types of rocks." What are the changes you see on the scene in comparison to when you were like 13 years old? What advice could you give to the young climbers? I think the scene of youngsters has changed as there are way more kids climbing pretty hard. More coaches, more scientific approach, but the problem for many remain the same - I often see too much pressure from the coaches and parents (which is even worse), not letting the kids be more independent in climbing and just having more fun in general. Kids should be motivated and psyched to climb themselves - if not, they will probably quit climbing sooner or later. It is important to be ambitious but not focusing too much on the performance. I think kids in general often climb only in certain areas and certain routes, which fit their style and they can push their limits very fast and high. We know that grades are relative, most importantly for someone being only 130cm. It can be frustrating for the youngsters when they grow up, their bodies changing and they do not make any further progression, or not even maintain the level. I think it is very important to climb everything and everywhere when it comes to sport climbing, mostly onsighting but not all the time, and not onsighting in the usual areas suitable for onsights. That way one learns the most and you gain the experience to have fun in the future, because you will be capable of climbing well in any style.

The next weekend, the World Cup tour continues in China and based on the starting list we can see that bouldering is booming. There will be some 20 % more participants compared to last year and all the big names are listed. Interestingly, very few take the opportunity to try out Speed and the same for Speed climbers not trying Bouldering. Talking to several of the athletes, it seems that they wait for the qualification format to be set before they make the decision to go for Combined.

Two 8B+' by Jimmy Webb
Jimmy Webb has done two 8B+'s in Shelter in Bavona and Ill Trill in Magic Wood. Eddie Fowke In total, Jimmy has done 77 boulders 8B+ which is among the Top-5 in the world. When it comes to flashes, he is #1 with ten 8B's and 29 8A+'s and bare in mind that he is one of the guys who most often gives personal grades.

8A+ by Mile Heyden
20 April 2017

8A+ by Mile Heyden

Mile Heyden, who last month did her first 8B+, has done La Cicatrice de l'ohm 8A+ (B) in Fontainebleau. (c) Matti Stanek " I was able to do all the moves in the first session and it took me four total to finally climb it. Two times I fell on the last move before the top out. My next plan is Magic Wood for three days if the weather gets better. Got some open project there like Pura Vida :)

19 April 2017

Grigri+ vs Grigri2

La Rambla 9a+ also by Klemen Becan
Klemen Becan reports on Instagram that he has done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana. This was the 19th ascent, out of which six just in 2017, of Ramon Julian Puigblanque's classical route from 2003. (c) Anja Becan Last year, the 35 year old Slovenian did his first two 9a+'s, Joe Mama and Papichulo both in Oliana. He should also be considered as one of the best onsight climbers in the world with several 8c's under his belt. Until 2013, Klemen competed intensively in the World Cup for 13 years and won the event in 2008.

9a route as preparation for the three Asia Boulder WCs
Domen ล kofic, Lead overall World Cup winner in 2016, will be competing in three Boulder World Cups in Asia starting this weekend in China. Four days ago, he did the first repeat of Jernej Kruder's In Time 9a in Sopata. He also did an 8c second go as well as tried Kruder's 9b+?, picture by Luka Tambaca. "It was just a small break to leave those plastic holds for a day or two." "In Time 9a is Jernej's ex project with a scary 8A dyno at the start followed by a bouldery 8c route. Jernej originally bolted the start two meters to the left but as it was to hard he decided to jump over it :) It's hard to find such complete route that makes boulderers and lead climbers happy at the same time. I will compete the whole world cup circuit, bouldering and lead. I just want to get better in bouldering, some finals would be great. I have a conditioning coach now. I started working with him one month ago but on the wall I still coach myself, no changes there."