Several coffee shops, restaurants and mini markets have opened during 2017 in Kalymnos. The big tumble-down hotel at the end of Massouri is being renovated and within some weeks a new climbing shop is opening up in this area. Although, Ryan Air reduced their flights in 2016 and will in 2017 stop flying to Kos, the entrepreneurship is booming on the island. During 2016, the number of climbers dropped some 20 % and although it seems less climbers have traveled to the island 2017, the number of climbers remain the same as more non-European visitors seem to stay longer periods. One reason for the growing entrepreneurship might be that they hope that the new owner of the airport in Kos, who will increase its capacity, will bring in more flights starting 2018. The municipality is trying to get more funding for rebolting and also improving the paths. Overall, Kalymnos is at it's best with 3 000 routes and not so many climbers so it just might be that this autumn it might be that you could get the peak. Here is an old 8a article.

Some twenty years ago, an Italian World Cup climber fell to the ground and injured himself badly, as he had not tightened his bowline knot. Directly afterwards IFSC made it mandatory to use the eight knot during comps. At the same time, in every WC competition there is a problem to untie the knot that sometimes results in 1 - 2 minutes delay. The O-Key device solves this problem by squeezing it in the knot before climbing. Back on the ground you just take the it out and untie will become much simpler. Possibly IFSC will make it mandatory to use on World Cups. On the other hand, the O-Key is in fact also a Safety First innovation because by squeezing it in, it is like confirming that you have finished your eight knot. Most us have forget this once or have had friends who have forgotten it and in some cases it has resulted in bad injuries. Most of us re-check the knot high up on the route and with the "Safety First" device, all these guys will feel more comfortable. After having used it for some days in Kalymnos, I am very positive about it and possibly this is a game changer when it comes to safety. Once my belayer says, - On belay!, I check my knot answering with - Safety First! Having kids, I will make it mandatory for them to use it and it will be nice to pass it over to my friends, showing I care. The O-Key or "Safety First" device is an invention by Albi Schneider, who ten years ago introduced the belay glasses to the market. He will present the O-Key at Outdoor in Friedrichshafen in June. Yesterday, he got the message that his O-Key made it to the finals where they are about to present the best new products of 2017. The price will be 4 or 5 Euros but Albi also plans to sell them in packages of five for Euro 10, so you can have a package in your rucksack and give away to friends. The O-Key can also be used as your small stick opening your carabiner while going for a stick clip.

Piotr Schab, who has done four 8b+ and harder onsights the last two weeks, is halfway of his goal to do ten 9a's in 2017 by sending Victimas Perez in Margalef. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz "Endurance climbing on pockets with an insecure jump at the end. Extremely painful but all in all it's worth some struggle :)" Now the plan is to start training for the Lead competition season that starts with the European Champion in Italy 30/6.

Jon Glassberg has a personal best of 8B but he is aiming for The Big Island 8C in Fontainebleau. Read his blog on La Sportiva describing his process and plan where he also says that, "Any climber with an athletic disposition, dedication, time, appropriate training and proper diet can climb V10(7C+).

Ten years ago, Albi Schneider presented his CU belay glasses on the market and 8a immediately gave it a thumbs up. Many were skeptical but it was such a great success that it was copied but after a trial, the guys selling it in Europe have to pay a licence. All in all, it has been estimated that at least some 50 000 pairs of glasses have been produced and sold around the world. In Kalymnos, where you can buy the CU's at just 79 Euros at Wild Sport often half of the belayers actually use belay glasses on the sectors with 25+ meter walls. 8a is currently testing another innovation by Albi that probably also will become popular in the future. On the picture, World Champion Angy Eiter is uses her CU's while route reading.

Christof Rauch, famous for having done more than 350 boulders 8A and harder the last 3.5 years, has done his second 8C FA, Iron Knuckles in Kärnten. "Perfect moment! Surely one of the biggest fights I've ever had, and definitely the hardest problem I have ever climbed. I feel in really good shape at the moment and I've never put so much effort into a single boulder problem. I just really wanted to climb this thing and it was always fun to try those moves. All together I worked on this beast about 14 sessions. Two hours after my ascent it started to rain really heavily, so I got soaked on the 50 minute walk back to the car. The problem links a perfect shaped crack with a little feet first section, about 8A+ at itself, into "Hard Knock Life" 8B, all in all about 20 hard moves and there is still an harder exit..." Directly after the send Christof, who is working full time as an electrician and engine building technician, started to work linking the 8A+ traverse with an 8B+ finish. Another fun fact is that it is a 50 min hike to the boulder and as many times before, he did it by himself, in order to get a full day experience challenging some rocks out in the nature.

Tips and tricks for beginners and up Maximizing your grade The 8abc of climbing Shortcuts to 8a Recruitment finger training

Adam Ondra shares some great tips on his Instagram including also a indoor replica of his 9c project in Flatanger, where he is going next.