Basically, I find often climbing videos pretty boring as you have no insight of how the route is like and how it felt for the climber. One example of this is the 30 min documentary of Ethan Pringle doing Jumbo Love but if you get Ethan's comment as he climbs it, it became one of the most interesting climbing videos I have ever seen. Commentating videos like this should be made standard but possibly it is just Ethan and a few others that can pull it together. Video on demand for USD 3. The video producer is Spenser Tang-Smith and he says that, "Ethan was really happy to do it too, it helped him bring the whole experience to a conclusion." Interestingly, Ethan says that Jumbo Love did not take his full 100 % mental and physical capacity and he shares some insights about that most of the time we only use 80 % of our total capacity.

Rvproj presents the full story including an uncut video form Ethan Pringle's send of Jumbo Love 9b. Ethan had been projecting it for eight years when he did Sharma's 80 meter test piece in 2015. Here is part of what Ethan wrote on Facebook after his send, "WOW!!! Yesterday I climbed my ultimate lifetime dream route, the most bad-ass sport climb I've ever laid eyes on, Chris Sharma's ‪#‎JumboLove‬! WOW. I can't believe it's over. I say that half in a literal sense because when I sent it, it was almost like an out of body experience that I can barely remember happening. My story on Jumbo Love spanned over eight years and involved every emotion I can think of: awe, excitement, love, admiration, longing, apathy, fear, frustration, anger, resignation, acceptance, and eventually, MOTHERFUCKEN GLORY!!!" In 2000, Ethan took the silver in the Youth World Championship and his best result out of seven Lead and Boulder WC's is #16. On rock he has done a handful of 9a's and Biographie 9a+ in 2007, when he was the #1 in the 8a Combined ranking game thanks to three 8B+ boulders he also climbed that year.

Daniel Fuertes has done two 8c+' which share the same start in Rodellar. One is CHC which was put up by Dani Andrada with finishes with a 7b+ after a good rest. The other is Los Cucos which is a FA of Fuertes where the exit is 8b+. "It can be 9a, but this route has a good rest between the two hardest sections and I think that it's 8c+/9a. This fantastic route is 25 meters of super overhanging where you climb down!! Wow!! It's crazy!!! I want to say thank you to Alejandro Bada and Kymy de la Peña, because they climbed with me these days there, and the area was so wet!! I feel lucky, with friends like this, impossible to fail!!" On the picture by David Lopez Campe, Daniel is working on the 15 year project, No Pain no Gain, which is thought to be 9a+. It is 40 meters long out of which 30 meters goes in a roof.

Five Ten has published Boulder World Cup Mid-Season Update including many nice pictures and videos linked. As a matter of a fact, Five Ten is the leading shoe manufacturer in the overall rankings. (Coxsey #1, Garnbret #2, Narasaki #3 and Fujii #5: La Sportiva is second with Watabe #1, Noguchi #4, Chon #4, Klingler #5) "Janja Garnbert whose main focus is actually lead climbing is just 8 points behind Shauna Coxsey in the overall rankings. In the men, Keita Watabe sits in first overall with Aleksei Rubtsov and Tomoa Narasaki in second and third respectively. With just three rounds to go in Vail (USA), Navi Mumbai (India) and Munich (Germany) it would appear to be all to play for in both the men’s and women’s."

www.8a.nu was started as my personal blog where I wanted to spread news of the new routes I put up and also where I shared the training tips I gave as the coach for the Swedish Youth team including Said Belhaj. In 2000, the scorecard was developed by my webmaster Leif Jägerbrand and within some few months, 8a became a very popular global website. Most of the current scorecard pages are actually looking the same as they did in 2000. In 2002, Jonas Emanuelsson joined as the new webmaster and the current website including Ticklists etc are his work. During several years, we have tried to find new web designers that could help us redesign 8a to state of the art look community interaction and user friendliness. Tieme van Veen has helped us with the beta.8a.nu available for mobile phones and within a week or so, you will be able to add routes here much quicker. During this spring, I have lived with my family in Bressanone, Italy, where Vertical-Life is located. It was started by Matthias Polig and friends in 2012, with the aim of creating a worldwide premium topo platform. Vertical Life offers a system to combine printed guidebooks with all the advantages an app can offer. In fact all their partner's guidebooks offer a code to unlock their digital version for free. Until now Vertical Life offers approved content for 50 destinations including Kalymnos, Frankenjura, Yosemite, Magic Woods to name a few. Right now they are working on the Céüse guidebook in collaboration with Arnaut Petit. I do like this approach to base topos on the local community instead of ripping off these local guys by just copying their work and selling it. The local FA's and the community around them including topo authors, rebolting and taking care of access issues etc, are the key in our very fast growing climbing community. Lately, they have also created an App where gym owners can manage their routes, which then also can be Zlagged by the climbers in order to create a training-log. The platform is becoming a more open tool for different players such as gyms, coaches and events. Based on our mutual focus and because VL, in fact, is also a design company, having put up the exhibition The Climbing Gardens of the world in Berlin, we started discussing if they could do a total make over of 8a. I am very happy that finally we have made a deal and that VL will invest in 8a and that they have started to work on this big mission. At the same time, I will remain as the editor-in-chief allowing me to spend more time finding and presenting the latest news and training articles etc. I am very sure that this cooperation will create a much better product. There will be less banners on the first page and it will be easier to add and find routes in the database. Please feel free to give your suggestions on what we should improve and what could be included in the upcoming modern website in order to give you a better experience visiting 8a.nu.

Christof Rauch has done his second 8C FA the last ten days by Styrian Delirium in Weststeiermark. The 23 year old Austrian, who is working full time and got his first sponsor just some months ago, is the one who has done most 8A's and harder in the last three years: 300+. He is also the new #1 in the 8a ranking game. "F**k yessss!! Feels like we have some low gravity days. Felt so much stronger on those moves. Amazing progression from dreaming about climbing this whole line and eventually doing it. Honestly this is not the best line but it connects the two coolest problems in the cave, "The Unnamed Ungraded" 8B, about 15 moves, into the 19 moves of "Sound in Motion" 8B. With the little rest in between this thing climbs more like a route than a boulder. Definitely feels harder than all the other really long boulders I've done. All together it took me around 15 sessions." The picture is from the FA of Traumata 8A+ which he put up this Thursday. In total, the Austrian has done 16 FA's 8A and harder in the last seven weeks.

Our youngest son was 18 months when we first put on a harness on him. Proudly we saw him crawl ten meters up before we realized that we had not taught him to get down... Later we did understoond that it is almost impossible to get down from a slab using a full body harness before they are at least three years old. At that time, we had anyhow started using just a normal harness which is not recommended as they can easily rotate upside down as their head including helmet are relatively heavy. We have never had such a problem but we were very careful in the beginning at the same time we made them just hang and also use a chest harness as a compliment. However, in practice and although our summer place is located just ten meters from a beginner crag they did not start climbing until one month after we had placed gymnastic rings above our sofa in our living room. One hour daily playing with them made they suddenly want to go for the 10 meter routes in the gym. Before this, it seemed that just the challenge was to big for them. When it comes to outdoors, we practice them same comfort philosophy and almost always pull in the rope and try to let them climb as easy and short routes as possible. They also use knee-pads as they otherwise often actually hurt themselves.The biggest success so far is by timing them on the possibly easiest route in the world, 1-2-3 ABC in Kalymnos. During the latest session, they played on it ten times each in a row optimizing the start position as well as tick mark the key holds, to set new records. When it comes to shoes, it works almost as good with just regular shoes. Now their focus is to go for personal record in heights and during the last session, we could here the older one actually hum when he was approaching the anchor at 25 meters. We also often give them a mission cleaning or putting in draws. Yesterday, we actually understood that possibly we should not have focused so much on their climbing as we now spend more time belaying them than we climb ourselves. 1. Buy gymnastic rings and knee pads 2. Let them try the harness at home including hanging in it 3. The shoes must be so comfortable that they can use them several hours 4. Practice hanging and coming down before starting climbing 5. Pull all the time in the rope when they climb 6. Start with the shortest and easiest routes possible 7. Give them missions with the quick draws and chalk

98: Baptiste Ometz SUI - Johanna Holfeld GER 00: Leo Favot FRA - Camilla Moroni ITA 02: Davidi Moroco ITA -Naile Meignan Complete results

"I can see it happening this year, hopefully." Adam Ondra comes with great progress news on Instagram.