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Frankenjura, Arco and Finale are three crags where sport climbing was born and they are all Top-20 in the crag data base. Based on the trend rating, we can see that 11-12 % of the added ascents are from the last 12 months meaning that they have all increased in popularity in the last year. The crags that have lost in popularity are in general crags from France, Kalymnos and Railay Beach.

98: Yannick Flohe GER - Johanna Holfeld GER 00: Nathan Martin FRA - Urska Repusic SLO 02: Alberto Gines ESP - Luce Douady FRA Complete result Interesting that Germany, who has struggled with poor junior results for several years, got two golds and some more good results. Laura Rogara, who was in the Lead WC final, was just fourth among the 16 year old's. Nikita Potopova, who has been totally superior in Lead this year, was just seventh.

Based on the route setting fiasco in Chamonix, clearly the route setters need some guidelines for how hard the routes should be. Obviously, everyone knows that one top in the final creates the ultimate show but on the other hand such a goal can easily ruin the show making the route too easy with multiple tops. Here are example of guidelines that IFSC could give to their route setters. Any further suggestions? Quarterfinal male grades (female -2) (and #of climbers reached) Third clip = 8a, Midways = 8b+ (26), Penultimate hold = 8c+ (3), Top = 8c+/9a (1) For the semifinal and final, the grades could be the same as it is onsight instead of flash as in the quarterfinal. Further more, the route setters should opt for one third to be eliminated around midway and just one climber reaching the penultimate hold. If there were more than one double top in the quarter final, the route setters should increase the difficulty with half a grade. If there are ties among the Top-5 before the final, the route setters should increase the estimated difficulty by one grade. The above suggested grades will also help the inexperienced climber to understand if there is any idea to participate. Often it seems that the routes are too easy in the beginning, sometimes, also based on the new 6 min rule, turning Lead into a boulder battle instead of measuring who has the best endurance.

The Momentum from Black Diamond has become my wife's favorite climbing shoe. She like that the discrete "Yoga look" instead of climbing in pink, orange or other bright colors. It is very easy to put on and off as well as it is not so sweaty due to its great breathability. The last is flat and the midsole is very soft making it a very comfortable shoe. What amazes me is how sticky and durable the 4.3mm NeoFriction rubber is. In other words, it performs really well for both beginners, standing on big holds or doing shorter routes, as well as for experts who do not want the down turned shoe. Black Diamond will launch several different shoes in 2018 which are produced in Korea. Video presentation

Alex Puccio has done her 21th 8B, The Shining in RMNP and she got it in just two hours in bad conditions. (c) Joel Zerr "Wow, psyched! First day ever at this boulder!!! 90% of the holds were VERY damp and some were actually fully wet! Took about 2 hours of work. Would be a lot nicer to climb without a lake under the start. 2 really cool boulders!!!"" The runner up on the 8B and harder list is Ashima Shiraishi with 15, Isabelle Faus with 12 and Anna Stöhr with 8. Including two 8B+'s, Puccio has done 23. In total there are some 20-25 female who have done an 8B boulder depending on which grades you use.

Nina Williams, who previously has done 36 boulders 8A to 8B, has done No More Greener Grasses 8A+ in Mt Evans. "Pulled all the projecting tricks for this one. Tiger stripes, micro-beta, trying in various weather conditions. Turns out a little humidity is a good thing!."

After a conversation with Dani a few days ago climbing together, he told us his concerns about the fast hatching of the boulderers and the late blooming for route climbers. First of all this is only an evaluation without acrimony, simply extracted from a personal conversation with him. (C) Talo Martín - Muérdago Films "How many climbers can, in their first years of climbing, get to do the maximum grade in bouldering? I think quite a few. And now, how many people who in less than 4 years can climb a 9a+? They almost don't exist. In bouldering I see that it is increasingly unnecessary to have a certain experience and in routes is totally the opposite. You need tenacity, psychology, baggage.. For me, it is easier to climb routes than bouldering. It may also be because of the age, but if I find a problem that suits me, that's it. The real strength is up to about 32 years old. There are many people who have started to climb and have quickly reached to the highest level in bouldering but not in routes. For bouldering you don't have to climb very well if you have pure strength. There are some of the high-level boulderers who have problems to climb a 8a route. Which is even more impressive is that almost the highest grade in bouldering has been climbed barefoot many times by Charles Albert during the last years, even downgrading a 8C+ proposal in Fontainebleau or the last repeat to Monkey Wedding 8C in Rocklands, and nevertheless on routes, just a few have done 8c barefoot. I have tried at least 8 times an 8c+ in Rodellar that I fell on the last bolts barefoot."

Moritz Welt, who did Masters of the Universe 8c (+) on his second go two weeks ago, has done his first 9a, Der heilige Gral in Frankenjura. Bouldering video with Moritz "12 tries, 6 days - first go today... what a wonderful line with amazing moves! Maybe the best route I've ever done... Next thing is just to climb many more routes mostly in the grades 8c and 8c+ but also to do some more 9a's. The priority is just to climb routes where I like the line and the moves to have the most fun possible. I also love onsighting routes.

Adam Ondra comes with great promising news for his 9c Project Hard in Flatanger on his Instagram "Finally some progress on Project Hard. I did the "9b+ link", which is linking the whole route without the first 20m of 8b. Possibly my hardest route ever, except for the fact that is not a route at all... Yet."