Nina Williams, who previously has done 36 boulders 8A to 8B, has done No More Greener Grasses 8A+ in Mt Evans. "Pulled all the projecting tricks for this one. Tiger stripes, micro-beta, trying in various weather conditions. Turns out a little humidity is a good thing!."

After a conversation with Dani a few days ago climbing together, he told us his concerns about the fast hatching of the boulderers and the late blooming for route climbers. First of all this is only an evaluation without acrimony, simply extracted from a personal conversation with him. (C) Talo Martín - Muérdago Films "How many climbers can, in their first years of climbing, get to do the maximum grade in bouldering? I think quite a few. And now, how many people who in less than 4 years can climb a 9a+? They almost don't exist. In bouldering I see that it is increasingly unnecessary to have a certain experience and in routes is totally the opposite. You need tenacity, psychology, baggage.. For me, it is easier to climb routes than bouldering. It may also be because of the age, but if I find a problem that suits me, that's it. The real strength is up to about 32 years old. There are many people who have started to climb and have quickly reached to the highest level in bouldering but not in routes. For bouldering you don't have to climb very well if you have pure strength. There are some of the high-level boulderers who have problems to climb a 8a route. Which is even more impressive is that almost the highest grade in bouldering has been climbed barefoot many times by Charles Albert during the last years, even downgrading a 8C+ proposal in Fontainebleau or the last repeat to Monkey Wedding 8C in Rocklands, and nevertheless on routes, just a few have done 8c barefoot. I have tried at least 8 times an 8c+ in Rodellar that I fell on the last bolts barefoot."

Moritz Welt, who did Masters of the Universe 8c (+) on his second go two weeks ago, has done his first 9a, Der heilige Gral in Frankenjura. Bouldering video with Moritz "12 tries, 6 days - first go today... what a wonderful line with amazing moves! Maybe the best route I've ever done... Next thing is just to climb many more routes mostly in the grades 8c and 8c+ but also to do some more 9a's. The priority is just to climb routes where I like the line and the moves to have the most fun possible. I also love onsighting routes.

Adam Ondra comes with great promising news for his 9c Project Hard in Flatanger on his Instagram "Finally some progress on Project Hard. I did the "9b+ link", which is linking the whole route without the first 20m of 8b. Possibly my hardest route ever, except for the fact that is not a route at all... Yet."

Liting Xu jumps two grades and does Fragile Steps 8B in Rocklands in just four sessions. She lives in Singapore which means that she just once a year can go for a climbing trip. "I got my first 8A in Bishop back in 2014, but haven't really been pushing my grade on my other yearly trips. This year I told myself that since it was my 2nd trip to Rocklands, I wanted to find a problem I like to project on and experience what it's like to push myself. I love climbing outdoors. This really means a lot to me :)"

Nika Potapova, who has been totally superior in the European Cup this year, has set a new female Zlagboard record with 02:02:94 in a Vertical-Life event during the World Cup in Chamonix. Video Although many world class climbers had a go, only 12 climbers (10 male, 2 female) have managed to hang for more than 2 minutes. Ramón Puigblanque has the current record at 02:44.35. The organizers of the Zlagboard Contest promise 1,500€ for a new hangtime record. Nika will be able to go for the prize money when she turns 16 in 2019.

Marcello Bombardi, who was #28 in the World Cup 2016, started the season by being #7 in the European Championship and now he won in Chamonix when he entered his first WC final. In fact, four guys topped the route and based on count back, the Italian won against Keiichiro Korenaga having topped faster! Complete results 1. Marcello Bombardi ITA 2. Keiichiro Korenga JPN 3. Yuki Hada JPN 4. Romain Desgranges FRA 5. Loic Timmermans It should also be noted that 22 guys topped both the qualifications routes and the first route was actually topped by 42 climbers. In other words, this was possibly the worst route setting since IFSC started in 1989. The live-streaming was excellent with follow up interviews and also that for the first in 2017 a clock was visible in the screen and also for the climbers. On the other hand, as it turned out to be a route where it was about climbing the fastest, it was difficult to follow who climbed faster.

Janja Garnbret cruised the final route with ease and said it was amazing to do in front of the huge crowd but also that she was not even pumped. Anak Verhoeven, who made the first top, was pleased but at the same time frustrated as she thought they deserve harder routes as they train hard. Including the male four tops, the commentators tried to say it was a great show but in the end everyone agreed that it was a big route setting mistake again. 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 2. Jain Kim KOR 3. Anak Verhoeven BEL 3. Tina Johnson Hafsaas NOR 5. Jessica Pilz AUT Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

I have used my Grigri for at least 15 years as I think it works better lowering down than the Grigri2. Sure the new version can handle thinner and thicker ropes but as I prefer around 9.8, my old one is perfect. The new Grigri+ is optimized for ropes in between 8.9 to 10.5 mm which is really impressive, as well as the anti-panic function. It seems almost impossible that even a beginner can drop you to the ground. There is also a top-rope or a lead belay mode but the difference is not so big and there is not a problem to lead in top-rope mode or vice versa. From a safety perspective, Grigri+ is a big step ahead and you can understand that it will be popular for guides, instructors and indoor gyms. For an experienced climber, I would still recommend one of the first two models. The Grigri+ has the advantage that it comes with a stainless steel wear plate but my 15 year old very well used Grigri still shows no sign of wear. The big disadvantage with Grigri+ is that the anti-panic function makes it harder lower down my kids and the same thing goes for lowering down my wife, when there is rope drag. More info

The Lead World Cup in Chamonix begins today with the qualification at 10.00. Updated results Live-Streaming from the male semifinal today 20:00-22:30 and for the female tomorrow between 11:00-13.30. Finals 20:50-22:30 tomorrow.