NEWS

Three 9a's during a rainy week for Alex Megos
Alex Megos, who two weeks ago was #7 in the Munich Boulder WC and who won the semifinal one week later in the Arco Lead WC, has delivered again. On Facebook he reports, "WOW! What a week! Today was the last day of my @redbullswitzerland trip! I climbed 6 days straight, visited 3 totally different areas and climbed "Coup de grรขce" 9a my 3rd 9a this week! Couldn't have wished for any better last day of this trip!" Checking his page, you understand that is has been raining most of the time and that the other 9a's he did were Im Reich des Shogun and Speed Integral. Alex seems to have stepped up another level this year and now we can hope that he will try to make it to Tokyo 2020.

Total domination by Japan in Youth B
1. Futaba Ito JPN - Rei Kawamata JPN 2. Natsuki Tanii JPN - Semen Ovchinnikov RUS 3. Saki Kikuchi JPN - Ryoei Nukui Complete results Photos and a report can be found at the Austria Climbing website (Pic by M. Liebhaber)

Sep 2: 10:00 - 12:00 Boulder Semi, Juniors (M+F) Livestream-Link 14:30 - 16:45 Boulder Semi, Youth B (M+F) Livestream-Link 20:00 - 21:40 Boulder Finals Juniors(M+F) Livestream-Link

Schenk and Shiraishi Youth A World Champions
Filip Schenk from Italy won first the qualification and the semi. In the final he made four straight flashes winning the male category in a superior style. The very last move he did statically meanwhile all the others had to go very dynamically. (c) Eddie Fowke 1. Filip Schenk ITA - 4t4 4b4 2. Keita Dohi JPN - 4t11 4b6 3. Mizuki Tajima JPN - 3t5 4b6 1. Ashima Shiraishi USA - 4t7 4b7 2. Luiza Eleleva RUS - 3t5 3b4 3. Brooke Raboutou USA 3t9 4b10 Complete results Ashima Shiraishi was equally superior also first winning the qualification and semifinal rounds. Overall the route setting was great and although rain it was packed. A perfect start of the Youth World Championship Finals in Innsbruck. Read more at the YWCH website report

Livestreaming 20:00 (GMT +2) for Youth A finals
Austria Climbing has presented an article for the Youth A in preparation for the final tonight that will be livestreamed at 20:00 (GMT +2) From the complete results, we can see that Filip Schenk and Ashima Shiraishi won the semifinal. Laura Rogora, pictured by Eddie Fowke did also make it. The Combined Top-13 from the Youth A, will qualify for the Youth Olympics in Argentina next year and most likely, some of these youngsters will also compete in Tokyo 2020.

From the complete results for the juniors we can see that it was perfect route setting today. As for the senior males, Japan dominates with three guys Top-6. Kai Harada is the first in Innsbruck who has flashed all four boulders. Among the females, three from USA are in the Top-10. Read more about the qualifications at the YWCH website report

Livestreaming from Youth Worlds starts on Friday
Updated results for Youth B. Sep 1: 20:00 - 21:40 Boulder Finals Youth A (M+F) Livestream-Link Sep 2: 10:00 - 12:00 Boulder Semi, Juniors (M+F) Livestream-Link 14:30 - 16:45 Boulder Semi, Youth B (M+F) Livestream-Link 20:00 - 21:40 Boulder Finals Juniors(M+F) Livestream-Link You can follow the results live through a newly developed App by Tim Hatch. Apple and Google. More info on Austria Climbing and their Facebook. The picture from the Opening ceremony with all the 50 nations gathered was taken by Heiko Wilhelm.

Almost perfect boulders for the youngest girls - Japan dominates
After the way too hard route setting for Youth A yesterday, the problems for the Youth B were made a bit easier which turned out almost perfect for the girls. In one group, seven topped all four problems and only seven out of 43 did not make a single top. In the other group the #6 made two tops and 16 did not do any boulder but all but one did score zones. Complete results For the boys, the boulders were a bit too hard. In one group the #2 did just two tops, 30 out of 45 did not make any top and seven scored zero bonuses. In the second group, the results were much better spread and only ten did not score any top. More great pics by Eddie Fowke Something interesting is that among the males two Japanese boys won their respectively group and for the girls, the two best Japanes were runner up in their respectively group.

BoulderShare aplikacija
BoulderShare je nova aplikacija domaฤ‡ih korijena, nastala iz potrebe opisa smjerova u dvorani. Ova besplatna aplikacija vam omoguฤ‡uje da smartphoneom uslikate ploฤu na kojoj se nalazi smjer koji ste smislili te oznaฤite grifove na smjeru, te onda tu sliku lako poลกaljete prijatelju. Facebook stranica aplikacije Aplikacija u Google Play storeu U meฤ‘uvremenu su napravljene FB stranice za dvije penjaฤke dvorane u kojima se penjaฤi koriste aplikacijom, pa na FB stranicu mogu okaฤiti svoje smjerove ili pogledati ลกto su drugi smislili. Ako napravite grupu za neku drugu dvoranu, podijelite ju tu s drugima ili na FB stranici aplikacije. FB BoulderShare Lugarnica FB BoulderShare Fothia

Bad start of Youth Worlds in Innsbruck
The Youth World Championship in Innsbruck started today with Boulder for Youth A. In the male second group, Keita Dohi was the only one to do two boulders and 16 boys scored zero bonuses. In the first group it was a bit better and the twelve first did at least one boulder. Complete results Among the girls, the boulders were also too hard as Ashima Shiraishi and Sandra Lettner were the only ones with three tops. Anyhow, more than half just got a maximum of one top and 17 scored 0 bonus. What is truly remarkable is that this is the third Championship in a row where the boulders have been too hard for the youngsters. (c) Heiko Wilhelm In fact many coaches and youngsters were upset and actually some had problems to do the first move from the starting position. In many cases, guys who made it to the semifinal, did do many less moves and bonuses in comparison to lower ranked. 8a has previously suggested having two or even three bonuses in order to make comps more fair and fun. 8a has also suggested that the route setters should have guidance saying that at least half of the guys qualifying to the semifinal should do four boulders.