Alex Khazanov has done Practice of the wild 8C (B+) in Magic Wood and goes to #7 in the ranking game. "One of my biggest struggles on a boulder. From almost doing it, to extending my trip and failing miserably 30 times on the upper crux shoulder move, I thinnly managed to keep it together and top one of my hardest and favorite boulders! 8B+ or 8C? I seriously dont know, and frankly, I dont care that much. I just know it was hard."

1. Laura Stöckler AUI 3 * 1 * 1 = 3 2. Iuliia Pantaleva RUS 1 * 2 * 5 = 10 3. Margo Hayes USA 5 * 3 * 3 = 45 The big sensation in female juniors was Claire Buhrfeid who won in both the Lead and Boulder event as well as being #4 in Speed, but just finished #5 in the Combined. The American did four runs below 9.50 in the Speed event and faced Aika Tajima, who normally does around 16 seconds in the Combined event. She was superior until she fell and then she could not recover mentally it seemed. Laura Stöckler on the other hand pleased her home crowd by performing better in all three disciplines in the Combined final. More pics at Austria Climbing.

1. Meichi Narasaki JPN 1 * 1 * 4 = 4 2. Yushiyuki Ogata JPN 2 * 2 * 1 = 4 3. Kai Lightner USA 3 * 3 * 3 = 9 Complete results Japan took another double victory followed by a bronze for USA in Junior male Combined. As all three guys, in fact, are very good Speed climbers performing in between 8.00 to 8.74 seconds, chances are high that some of them will also compete in Tokyo 2020. A highlight of the competition was when Ogata, in his normal yo-yo style, finished one boulder on his 11th attempt. Measuring how many attempts, i.e. training, he puts in when he does not top, as well as his senior WC results, he should already now be pointed out as a contender for a medal in Tokyo.

jan kares (43) has done another pullup world record, 583 reps in 30 minutes. Previously he has been a record holder for 30 min (236 reps), 6, 12 and 24 hours etc. New World Record today - 1 033 pullups in 60 min In 1998, he was #17 in a Lead World Cup but nowadays he is a bolting and onsighting fanatic. Since 2008, Jan has spent some 180 days bolting, paying for everything by himself, in Sardinia. That is what he does for all his vacations. His dream is that this area, close to Cala Gonone, will be one of the best and most famous climbing areas in Europe. The 42 year old has up until now done some 250 routes and he thinks it is possible to make 1 000. He will create a topo through Vertical-Life soon.

1. Semen Ovchinnikov RUS 2 * 2 * 3 = 12 (S * B * L) 2. Rei Kawamata JPN 3 * 1 * 6 = 18 3. Hidimassa Nishida JPN 6 * 4 * 1 = 24 Complete results Semen Ovchinnikov from Russia is the Combined winner in the Youth B after stellar performance in all three disciplines. The Japanese athletes got the three next positions. Interesting is that in the Boulder event, the worst results was four tops in six tries. Pictures and full report at Austria Climbing

In Lead and Boulder, the Japanese Youth B girls got all six medals and in the Combined event they did it again. The final finished by Natsuki and Ai topping out as they also did in the Lead final. 1. Tani Natsuki JPN 1 * 2 * 1.5 = 4.5 2. Mori Ai JPN 5 * 1 * 1.5 = 7.5 3. Ito Futaba JPN 2 * 3 * 3 = 18 Complete results Pictures and full report at Austria Climbing

Another great semifinal round where the two winners in the Youth A Boulder climbed the highest: Ashima Shiraishi and Filip Schenk. Complete results Interesting is that Japan who has dominated previously, did just get one through to the final. The live streaming continues tonight with the finals. 19:00-20:00 Lead Finals Youth A 20:30-21:30 Lead Finals Juniors

Adam Ondra has on his Instagram explained why he named his 9c, Silence. (c) Bernando Gimenez