Sam Weir, who had a personal 8A best until 2015, has during a night session done his first 8C, Topaz in RMNP. video "4th ascent. Yes! My first v15! First go tonight:) At first I thought it would go easy for me but after falling on the walk through after sticking the crux 10+ times I believe this warrants the 8c grade for how confident and precise you have to climb on the exit v11 boulder. The first time I set the toe hook I sent. Definitely my hardest to date and psyched for my europe trip and to start that new journey on Hypno!"

Matty Hong reports on Instagram that Margo Hayes has done Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. Seven months ago Margo became the first female to do a 9a+ by La Rambla and last month she was #3 in the Junior Combined World Championship. (c) Jan Novak Biographie was put up by Chris Sharma in 2001 and with a broken hold in the start, it is considered harder than originally. In total, Margo did the 14th ascent of the 30 meter long route. Here is the 8a interview after she did La Rambla where she among other things said that, "Most of my training is climbing. I do try to run 1-4 miles a few times a week. On top of that, I fit in some strength training and flexibility work where I can. My routine is always changing, but these things stay constant. When I have the opportunity, I jump on the trampoline and swing on the bars! This is my favorite type of cross training." Here are an interesting quote in a recent Cafe Kraft video: I think mentally we limit ourselves much more than physically. If you want push yourself and reach your full potential you have to focus on what's going on upstairs.

Kampfzone is the new multi-pitch by Beat Kammerlander graded, 8b+, 8c, 8a+, 7a, 7c. The 58 year old did bolt it ground up and it is located in Rätikon at 2 800 meter. Planet Mountain has all details and an interview with the legend.

Ett inlägg delat av Alex Puccio (@alex_puccio89) Sep 25, 2017 kl. 3:52 PDT

The strong Beto Rocasolano has done a few FA's in Peixcave, an amazing new granite cave in Madrid described by him as the 'spanish Wheel of Life". The problems (that look awesome in the video) are Anubis 8B, El Abismo de Noa 8B+ and Trinity 8C. "We named it Peixcave cause it was found by Alfonso Peso 'Peich' (devoloper of many bouldering crags in Spain) 3 years ago. The lines are pure endurance and all of them can be divided in 3 sections with a good ish rests in between as they have more than 50 moves. It was hard to grade it cause the climbing seems more like route climbing. Definitely it will be the Wheel of Life from Madrid."

Alex Puccio continues to deliver in Magic Wood by doing Pura Vida 8A+ and One Summer in Paradise 8B. "Felt as hard for me as Riverbed. Really nice crimps... except I REALLY dislike the end of this boulder! Fell off the last moves once today and then did it second attempt of the day. Second day trying it." (c) Joel Zerr During the last month, the 28 year old has won both Adidas Rock Star and Arco Rock Master as well as having done four boulders in between 8A+ and 8B+!

Here are the 8a current prediction for the Tokyo 2020. 1. Adam Ondra - Janja Garnbret 2. Jan Hojer - Claire Buhrfeind 3. Yushiyuki Ogata - Ashima Shiraishi 4. Stefano Ghisolfi - Margo Hayes 5. Jakob Schubert - Elena Kravsoskaia 6. Tomoa Narasaki - Jain Kim

Jenya Kazbekova, Youth World Champion in 2010 who was #8 in Chamonix (Lead) and #13 in Munich (Bouldering) this year, has done her first 8c+ Güllich in Crimea. (c) Ilia Karpenko "First time I tried it was ten days ago. This route was really hard for me, but it was my style of climbing. First part is vertical wall with very small crimps and after is overhang with few powerful moves. I think, I did it in 10 attempts. In October I'm going to China on two World cups and after also in Slovenia. I hope, that I will have a chance to go on rocks after the season of comps. I would also like to try the Olympic format." Her father Serik has won World Cups both in Lead and Bouldering and her mother Nataliya Perlova, has a silver and a bronze in Bouldering World Championships. Jenya did her first 8b+ when she was 13 years old so all together the Ukraine family is among the most successful climbing families in the world.

Cracking Cobra from Eddie Bauer on Vimeo.

Jan Hojer did not make it to the semi in Lead but with 7.38 in Speed, he was #12 and will compete in the final. This is the fastest time a Lead or Boulder specialist have done. Sean McColl who has competed in Speed for many years is normally doing it on 8.50 seconds. Jan's personal best before this comp was 8.40. Ashima Shiraishi was the second big name who tried it out and she was #19 out of 24 with 12.59. Here is the Speed Final where Jan climbs 17:45 and his Speed should put some pressure on other Lead and Boulder specialists. "I maybe climbed on the route 12-15 days. Usually about 4-6 tries each. I tried to copy Danyil's (Boldyrev, the 190 cm world record holder) beta and trained with him one day a couple of weeks ago. He analyzed my mistakes and although I had not much time to work on anything yet, I feel like I know a couple things about speed climbing now.I will start real speed training this winter I guess. In China i might compete but probably won't train speed again before that and focus more on lead training."