NEWS

Lara Trinkl does Magnolia rechts Stehstart (8A+)
Lara Trinkl, who the last month sent four 8Aโ€™s and placed #6 in the Austria National, has in one session, done Magnolia rechts Stehstart (8A+) in Mixnitz. The last month, she was #6 in the Austria Nationals.

Can you tell us more about the quick ascent?
The boulder is located at a very cool area nearby. When I saw it, I thought it wouldn't suit me at all. I actually wanted to try my project there, but it felt impossible that day. So instead I joined my friends who were already trying this boulder. I quickly found a beta that suited me and managed all the single moves pretty much straight away. A few tries later I managed to send it and I am extremely happy and excited about it.

Simone Tentori ticks Ephyra (8C+)
Simone Tentori, with seven 8Cโ€™s under his belt, has completed Ephyra (8C+) in Chironico. โ€I got emotional up there... Beyond psyched to have climbed this beast.โ€ (c) Siara Fabbri

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I start seriously trying Ephyra when Elias Iagnemma asked me to join him when he was trying in February. Before that I put my hands on the crux a couple of times with no success. Climbing with him got me really psyched and with his beta I could unlock all the moves for the first time. I perfected my way on the stand (sissyfuss 8A+) until I could do it on command all the time in a static way with the high foot. So for me it was all about the crux span move the the left pinch and piecing it together.

It was a really enjoyable process since each session I felt very relaxed and motivated just to be there trying hard. Even when I was really close I never felt the pressure to send. In the last few years I expose myself a lot on difficult boulders and I'm working hard on my mental approach and this was the perfect challange to prove that I'm going in the right direction. It was for sure my most memorable climbing moment and my hardest ascent so far.

Brooke Raboutou does Excalibur (9b+)
Brooke Raboutou has become the first woman to complete a 9b+ ascent by repeating Stefano Ghisolfiโ€™s Excalibur in Arco. The 23-year-old started projecting it during a trip in the end of last year and returned to Arco for her big project last month. Adam Ondra was the first to climb a 9b+ route in 2012, and before Brooke, only eight other climbers had achieved the same grade.(c) Crimp-Films

Brooke, who got the silver in the Paris Olympics, is also famous for her outstanding Boulder tick list including a handful 8B+โ€™, one 8C as well as one 8A+ flash.

Michele Reusa FAโ€™s Majin buu (9a)
Michele Reusa, who two years ago at age 16 did his first 9a, has done the FA of Majin buu (9a) in Falesia del ghรซddo.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
Majin buu does the whole first part of Saiyan (8c) and then turns left with a very hard block and a resistance part, a very beautiful route with spectacular movements bolted by my father Iuri Reusa. I have already started trying a new project, Super Saiyan (9a), which could probably be 9a+. It was freed by my brother and given 9a but in my opinion it could be harder than 9a comparing it also with other pitches of the grade.

Any competition plans for 2025?
I have prepared for the 2025 Coppa Italia Lead Senior circuit and the Italian Senior Championship. I hope to participate in some senior Europa Cup!

David Bermudez, 15, onsights five 8a+/b
David Bermudez Carbonell, with six 9aโ€™s under his belt, has during the last four weeks onsighted four 8a+โ€™ and Niรฑa mala (8b).

Can you tell us more about your focus on onsight?
Iโ€™ve always liked onsight climbing a lot, but in the past few months, Iโ€™ve been focusing on it in a different way because Iโ€™ve started traveling more to new areas with my climbing team, Sputnik Climbing. With the help of my trainers, Iโ€™ve managed to better visualize the routes from the ground and understand other important things to focus on.

In my opinion, onsight climbing is very important for developing skills that you canโ€™t work on when trying a route multiple times. Giving an onsight attempt with all your energy is much more interesting than a redpoint, but sometimes people donโ€™t find it appealing because onsight climbing pushes you out of your comfort zoneโ€”unlike redpointing, where youโ€™re allowed more tries. I also like redpoint climbing, but itโ€™s good to alternate it with onsight climbing.

Gonzalo Larrocha, 40, creates two new 9a variations
Gonzalo Larrocha, who sent Selecciรณn anal del fuego (9a+) in January [pictured], has done Grabando el pasado (9a) in Santa Linya and Brownie Chulo (9a) in Oliana.

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
Both routes are easier versions of the original Mercenaris del passat (8c+) [not repeated since 2007 due to broken hold] and Papichulo (9a+).

Grabando el pasado: Start with a route that I bolted and then go straight to the main boulder of Mercenaris. In my opinion it is one the most endurance demanding routes in the cave.

Brownie chulo: Start on the left side of Joe Blau and arrive to Papichulo just below the second boulder after the ledge. So you should climb the second a third boulder of Papi an the upper part of this route. The main reason to try this, is that I don't feel it is possible to do the original version. This is what weak people should do.

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France superior at Rome Euro Boulder Cup
France set a new benchmark at the European Boulder Cup in Rome, with their four male participating climbers sweeping the top four positions. On the womenโ€™s side, they added to their success by claiming both the gold and bronze medals. In the first stage of the Euro Cup held last month in Munich, four French men finished in the top six. The third event will take place in Brussel 3-4/5 and previous to that the Boulder World Cup kicks off in Keqiao, Japan on April 18. (c) IFSC

1. Leo Favet FRA 69.8 - Lily Abriat FRA 74.9
2. Antoine Girard FRA 69.6 - Stella Giacani ITA 69.6
3. Noe Moutault FRA 59.9 - Lucile Saurel FRA 59.8

The new point-based scoring system awards 25 points for reaching the top and 10 points for reaching the zone, with a deduction of 0.1 points for each attempt.

Radek Votocek does Kompletace (9a)
Radek Votocek, who did his first 9a last month, after having completed 14 8c+โ€™, has done Kompletace (9a) in Krkavka. โ€First ascent after the crimp broke in the boulder. Climbed directly, the original beta is no possible. Difficulty is roughly the same as Senzace.โ€

Senzace (9a) was Radekโ€™s first 9a, which he began attempting in 2020. Both of the 9a routes were originally established by Adam Ondra over a decade ago as 8c+, but were later upgraded after key holds broke.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the number of sessions needed?
Kompletace is a route that shares its crux section with Senzace. A few years ago, a fairly important hold broke off. Yesterday, the temperature dropped and the wind brought good conditions for a send, so Iโ€™m really happy that I managed to complete this tough route at Krkavka fairly quickly. ๐Ÿ˜Œ

After sending Senzace, I came back to the line about five times and gradually worked out a new, more direct beta. The difficulty matches the crux section of Senzace.

Jules Marchaland ticks Guรจre de bruit (9a)
Jules Marchaland, with five 9a+โ€™ under his belt, has repeated Seb Bouinโ€™s Guรจre de bruit (9a) in Claret. โ€Really good flash attempt [3 moves to the final jug] and then didnโ€™t check the last moves so fucked up the 2nd go and send first go next sesh. 2 really cool crimpy boulder with a good rest beetween. The direct line is Savage.โ€ (c) Yulen Calleja Ordiz

What is the plan for the upcoming weeks?
Iโ€™m trying the direct Line of this 9a, probably a hard 9a+. Then just enjoy climbing and go back on Ratstaman Vibrations [Megos 9b in Cรฉรผse].

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