David Mason has during the last month done Last Wave Goodbye (8B+) in Peak District and The Boss (8B+) in Yarncliff. Amazingly, just 14 months after undergoing ACL surgery due to a skiing accident, the 39-year-old is hitting his peak. David boasts one of the flattest grade pyramids ever recorded, with over 600 boulders graded 8A and above—yet only four at 8B+. (c) Dave Parry

How was it possible to recover from the surgery so fast?
Recovery wise I still don’t think I’m fully recovered as I don’t yet have full flexion, and full extension without activation is only just returning. From a climbing perspective I very rarely notice this but I’m yet to fall off something of a decent height or totally out of control. The actual rehab was a lot of hard work and very tedious especially in the first few months. I was doing physio 3-4 times a day for the first 2-3 months. As the intensity increased it dropped to once a day, then 3 times a week and now I try to do 1 leg session a week with mobility work a further 2-3 times. I started climbing around 4 months post surgery just on our board, which is very low and then a month or so later started to put some outside climbing in. As my confidence increased I tried a larger variety of moves etc. Climbing itself is great rehab as we need to put force through our legs in a variety of contorted positions.

How does a typical climbing week look like for you?
I typically try to climb 3 times, if I can get a fourth session in then I will. These sessions will be a mixture of inside and outside predominantly focussed on strength or projecting and then 1 session focused on bouldering fitness. I try to do 2-3 exercises of upper body conditioning 3 times a week, 1 leg session a week and then some form of finger board or pick-ups work 1-2 times. If I get all this in then I’m pleased but invariably I end up dropping the odd session.

Why does your grade pyramid appear so unusually flat?
Before Mina [Leslie-Wujastyk] and I had children we were lucky enough to be able to travel a lot and I always wanted to be able to go to an area and climb as many different styles as possible. This meant I focussed on being the most all-around boulderer I could be rather than honing my skills in one small niche area. My training also focussed around having good capacity so I could climb multiple problems in a day and lots of days on, rather than projecting at the very top of my ability. This has meant I have climbed a huge amount of boulders at around 80-95% of my max but very little in that last 5%. I think when I was younger this was good for my ego, I loved ’ticking’ problems and coming back from a day without having done something I found hard mentally. I’d love to have had my current outlook and mental capacity for failure when I was younger as it means I would have really been able to explore what was possible for me but I’m also really proud of my ticklist and all-around ability (except on slabs!).

How would you explain your recent peak performance, managing to send two 8B+ boulders within a single month?
Regardless of these 2 boulders I’ve actually had the best winter season of my life. I’ve climbed more hard boulders on the gritstone than I have ever done previously. I think there are a few reasons for this. Firstly, being a father of two means I don’t have as much time as I used to and so sessions have to be much more efficient and focussed. Instead of big day trips to do something below my top level I’ve focussed on quick hits close to home on problems that require me to be better technically, mentally and physically. I don’t have much “mileage” to do around the Peak as I’ve done a lot so I’ve been forced to work on problems in that top 5% of my ability. I also have a local project that will require me to be the best I can be in order to do it and that has kept me motivated. It’s long but the moves are also hard (for me) so a lot of my outdoor bouldering has focussed on problems that will help me build towards to this. My legs are stronger and so I can do moves I previously couldn’t or take weight off my fingers by using my legs more. I’m basically a bit stronger but also better at climbing.

Lastly, I’m much stronger mentally. I’m ok with not ticking for longer periods if it’s building towards me being better. I want to be a better climber and I think this requires us not to always be climbing problems quickly, although that challenge can be included. Becoming a father has helped my mental game so much - I love climbing as much as ever, if not more, but at the end of the day Isaac and Lily don’t care whether I’ve sent my project or not, they just want to play and learn, and this really helps me to be more relaxed, most of the time ;).

Sorato Anraku, the overall Boulder World Cup champion for the past two years, kicked off 2025 with a victory in the season's first competition. ”I had a good time at this comp. I really enjoyed the problems. I liked M4 because I haven’t won recently because I’m not always sending the last boulder, this time I could though, so I am happy.” Complete results.

Dylan Chuat, with 23 routes 9a or 9a+ under his belt, has done L'isola che non c'è (9a) in Amden. The picture is from Dylan’s flash of Gnice (8b+). ”Superb hybrid route with the S!! I came here a year ago after a trip to Pic Saint Loup—I fell at the top back then, probably wasn’t in my best shape. We came back today, and I sent it on my first go from the ground, right after figuring out the beta! Such a cool effort, and the sensations were even crazier knowing I was almost sure I wouldn’t fall during my try! (of course without a kneepad, We respect the first ascents 🙏🏼😉)”

What do you mean by ”hybrid route”?
It is half boulder, half sport climb. Basically, I start with a boulder problem—an 8A to be exact—and once I reach the middle, my belayer clips the rope to my harness so I can continue. It’s an amazing route in a stunning location, first opened by the legend Fred Nicole.

Annie Sanders (17), the winner of the final Boulder World Cup in 2024, kicked off the 2025 season with a victory in Keqiao, topping one boulder and earning 54.7 points. Complete results.

Chabi Velilla Sánchez has done Pozo verde power (9a) in Pozo verde. It was bolted by Toño Blasco in 2023, with the first ascent by Enrique Beltrán.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It's a very bouldering style route, about 18 meters long, and around 15 of those are roof climbing. I’ve been projecting another 9a in Foz de Zafrané for the last 4 months, and this one went down in about 13 goes. I’m feeling super strong this year.

This route means a lot to me because it’s in one of my local crags, right on the border between Zaragoza and Guadalajara.

What is coming up next?
I want to keep working on 8th-grade routes to improve my onsight climbing.

Janja Garnbret, who has been a dominant force in competition climbing over the past decade, announced on Instagram that she will compete in only three events in 2025, choosing instead to dedicate more time to rock climbing.

”After years full of amazing competitions and especially the olympic year itself which was physically and mentally demanding, I’ve decided to do it a bit differently this year.”

Lara Trinkl, who the last six weeks has done five 8A’s and her first 8A+, has sent Nail the Rail (8A+) in Zillertal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was originally trying Pit Bull 8A to the right of this boulder and it went ok, but I couldn't send it yet. Just as we were about to leave I thought I could give Nail the Rail a try and it was just fully my style and suited me really well. Even though the topout was scary I actually managed to send it in my first go from the start after checking the moves a few times.

How can you best explain your great progress lately?
Honestly, I have just been climbing a lot outdoors in the last few months. :)

Andrea Kümin, currently six months and eleven 8A’s into a road trip with David Firnenburg, has done Moonwalk (8A+) at Vesterøya. ”Moonwalk is a stunning and technical line right on the coastline of Vesterøya, Sandefjord. A tall, water-washed boulder, split by a single diagonal crack. The holds are round slopers and subtle crimps, with barely any footholds outside the crack – forcing creative movement and tricky heelhooks. The first crux comes right at the start. A polished sloper for the left hand that slopes the wrong way and nearly drove me mad. After a lot of experimenting, I finally found a technical heelhook that worked – but only if I shifted my weight with precision. The middle section is easier, but the real crux when coming from the bottom is the final long move to the top.

The first seven tries were all close – but I wasn’t making progress. My arms were getting tired. But David’s motto: “Stick with it when it’s that close.” So giving up wasn’t an option. Repeating the same beta wasn’t either. I could do the last move in isolation, but from the ground it was too risky and too physical when already tired. We worked out a new solution – a high heelhook on a rounded edge. Still sketchy and super technical, but if it holds, I can block the last move statically. In try 8, the heelhook slipped. I was tired but didn’t want to give up just yet. Attempt 9: the movements felt smooth and automatic, but my arms were cooked after 90+ moves on this problem this day. Somehow I managed to place the heelhook, shift my weight slowly, lock off, and trace my fingertips along the edge to the saving sloper. Completely exhausted, I pulled over the top – and couldn’t believe it. Mega! Sticking with it paid off!”

David has logged over 75 boulders graded 8A and above on the road trip, including 12 flashes—two of which were 8B’s in just the past two weeks. They're now putting together an overview of the best areas and standout boulders from their journey through Scandinavia.

Blå blomster ss (8B) in Moss. ”Oh, wow, that was short and intense. Toe hook sticked, toe stayed, just hit the crimp right, could hold the tension and pull through the lock-off. Thanks to Andrea to demonstrate the moves of the stand start in beforehand. Hard to grade this climb if you only had one try. Did just everything work perfectly? Would it have taken me a whole session after failing the flash try? I was close to fall but it somehow didn’t feel like a proper 8B to me, more like an 8A+ compared to other 8B climbs I’ve done in Sweden on the same type of rock right before coming here. Though, Thilo who did the FA is known for making solid grades. Whatever! Great climb during a fun little session with Andrea. Unfortunately, this place is just next to a road and there is trash everywhere. Norway has definitely more beautiful places to offer😆”

Din Dean (8B) in Tokerud. ”Wow, another flash. One of the great lines on this crag. Was close to miss the pocket but somehow sticked it. Kept it together with some hesitation and imprecise placements here and there. Like Blå Blomster I think it‘s soft for the grade, at least for my size. Maybe 8A+.”

Loic Zehani, who previously has done 17 FA’s 9a+ or 9b, has made the FA of La Sainte Poule (9a+) in Sainte-Baume. The picture is from his FA of Harder Better Faster Stronger (9b) from last autumn.

”Nice line where everything happens in the first part. A dozen moves ( not the most beautiful ! ) that lead to a very nice and tricky boulder section ( about 8A over 3 moves ) , then after a rest (not good) another nice boulder section wich works the shoulders well ! The second part , much less harder, is very beautiful . Bolted by my father with "la Poule" 's points , thanks to him.”

Alex Megos, who just put up the hardest route in Buoux, Le Grand Saccage (9a+/b), has on the same trip onsighted Dévers Sévère (8c+) and Finement con (8b+). (c) Jan Virt

The German climber is renowned for achieving the world’s first 9a onsight and has onsighted around 20 routes graded 8c or harder. This places him second only to Adam Ondra, who has onsighted approximately 100 routes at 8c and above.

Can you tell us more about the onsights, full control or any epic moves?
Dévers Sévère was only close at the very top. I couldn't properly see the holds and almost fell 😅. I did a 360 campus in the beginning of the route. It's a horizontal roof and I actually think my 360 campus was the best method 👌🏼

The 8b+ I did onsight was very straight forward pulling on pockets. It was very much my style.

How come you think there has not been any onsight progress over the last ten years?
I think Adam is the only one who really got into the onsight game. He focused a lot on it and really prepared for some hard onsights. Most people don't do that and have not done it. It will maybe come in the future, but at the moment the projecting game is much more in fashion. I think it's a matter of people not wanting to invest to much time and energy into only one try. If it's goes wrong it's over. There is no second try. So you need to be a) a very strong and intuitive climber and b) you need to be willing to invest time.