Hily Manon reports on Insta that she has done the 50 meter endurance master piece Era Vella in just four days. Previously she had done a couple of 8c' and one month ago she was #2 in the France Bouldering Championships. Last year she was #11 in one Boulder World Cup. "I trained for boulders comp last year and this year to but I have no time to do the Boulder WC in 2018. I will do the french lead nationals in two weeks and I hope to do make the selection for the World Cup. I have always had good endurance and now I have more strength so I thought, why not try something harder? Margalef is 100 % my style so I choose this route because of the beauty and the compatibility with me! The three difficulties are all my style; resistance, boulder sections and open hand in pockets. About the grade I do not know, I have done some 8c's but I can say it was not so much harder for me personally. I am just 154 cm and with my little fingers what seems 8b for me in Margalef can be graded 8c here. I have no idea of the 8c+/9a difficulty and what is my level today. Grades are delicate because of climbing difference between everyone." Chris Sharma put it up in 2010 and it quickly became the most repeated 9a in the world and in 8a data base, everyone has given it three stars. It has previously been done 30 times out of which five female ascents. Some of the latest repeaters have called it 8c+ and this is also the grade in the latest updated topo.

Sylwia Buczek has done her second 8c in Frankenjura, Intercooler which she started to work on last summer. (c) Hannes Kutza " I climbed the line on 29 April very early in the morning, it was a good weather and I had a very positive mindset, I just wanted to climb the best as I can. Also I was motivated by the fact that the next day is my birthday. I climbed the line in my first go. Climbing on the limit is that what I like and it was always extremely motivating for me. So very likely I will search for next hard project :) I would really like to check how hard would be the next grade for me, I'm very curious so probably I will check something around 8c+."

Cathy Wagner has done The human pad in Monistrol d'Allier which actually is the third 8a+ during the last two weeks for the 52 year old. In total Cathy has done 141 routes graded 8a+ out of which the first one more than 20 years ago. She started climbing in 1985 being 21 years old. The amazing thing is that the last 12 months have been her best ever with 16 routes 8a+ to 8b.

Jernej Kruder, #1 and #2 in the two first Boulder World Cups 2018, has done the 55 meter long Water World in Osp/Misja Pec. "with my new first crux beta, not so hard I guess." Interesting is that this monster endurance session was his last preparation for the next two Boulder World Cups in China. As a matter of a fact, Kruder says he has not have had one single indoor session since he returned from Moscow!

Anna Liina Laitinen reports on her Insta that her boyfriend Matty Hong has done Fight or Flight. As can be seen by the picture by Francois Lebleau there is a long flight down if you miss that last jug. Matty has previously done three 9a+' and he is also a professional photographer taking great pictures of his climbing world class friends like when Margo Hayes did La Rambla 9a+.

ADVERTORIAL - From 25 to 27 May the sixth edition of the Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place all around the Three Peaks. For three days, there will be climbing, celebrations and discussions at the cross-language and cross-border sports and cultural event. Over time Dolorock has become one of the largest sports climbing events in Europe. Come and be part of it! On Friday, 25/5 at 9:00 pm there will be a drive-in cinema at the Dobbiaco indoor climbing centre. On Saturday, 27/5 it’s time for the Dolorock Red Point Fight. This climbing contest takes place in the climbing crags in Val di Landro. The five best climbed routes per participant are included in the ranking. The rankings are (for each, women and men): professional, amateur (mean value), youth and 50+. At 7:30 pm: awards ceremony with many non-cash prizes. Afterwards celebrations and dancing continue with the group “Cindy & the Rock History”, Zlagboard contest and food and drinks. (free camping). For the perfect start to Sunday a climber’s brunch is served in the Dolorock marquee. At 11:00 am "Yoga with Karin" and “Massage techniques for climbers" and Gamatzn Kids Climbing". ©Rainer Eder

Jonathan Guadalcazar has done his second 9a, Ataxia in Crevillent where he previously has set up four 8c+' "A big marathon trough the lip of the roofs. Climbs Supernova and then from the anchor it is a five routes combo. Hard to grade, it is pretty bouldery with bad rests. To me it seems logical to grade this (9a). It is the 8c+ of Supernova adding an 8b+. A great route really."

Martin Schidlowski has done his first 9a, Kraftplatzl in Berglsteiner See. "it took me 15 sessions, the fist one being in march last year. In winter I focused on power endurance (the route only has 25 moves) and finger strength training. When perseverance, dedication and hard work finally pay off! Got lucky with the conditions after many frustrating tries. Thanks to all my friends for belaying me, especially Valerie for the positive attitude on the sending day! My next plan is to finish my mountain guide education and to find more time for alpine climbing and mountaineering. I will rather focus on longer routes during the summer months instead of starting a new hard project."

Akira Waku started climbing 12 years ago being 35 years. There were no climbing gym in the neighborhood so he decided to build one. His physical background was close to nothing. "I was doing athletics competition in my school days. After that some road bike since I was 30 years old. Climbing training is mainly muscle training and campus board training. I devise my own training and practice it. I do not have coaches, trainers, etc and I do not even go there." In the video Akira does Babel in Shiobara put up as an 8C/+ by Dai Koyamada in 2007 as an 8C/+ and it has been confirmed as an 8C by the four repeaters.

Isabelle Faus has done her fourth 8A+ the last month, Ain't no Heaven for a Thug in RMNP. In total, the 25 year old has done 45 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ and she is #2 in the 8A ranking game. (c) Chad Greedy