5 May 2018

Era Vella 8c+ (9a) by Hily Manon

Hily Manon reports on Insta that she has done the 50 meter endurance master piece Era Vella in just four days. Previously she had done a couple of 8c' and one month ago she was #2 in the France Bouldering Championships. Last year she was #11 in one Boulder World Cup. "I trained for boulders comp last year and this year to but I have no time to do the Boulder WC in 2018. I will do the french lead nationals in two weeks and I hope to do make the selection for the World Cup. I have always had good endurance and now I have more strength so I thought, why not try something harder? Margalef is 100 % my style so I choose this route because of the beauty and the compatibility with me! The three difficulties are all my style; resistance, boulder sections and open hand in pockets. About the grade I do not know, I have done some 8c's but I can say it was not so much harder for me personally. I am just 154 cm and with my little fingers what seems 8b for me in Margalef can be graded 8c here. I have no idea of the 8c+/9a difficulty and what is my level today. Grades are delicate because of climbing difference between everyone." Chris Sharma put it up in 2010 and it quickly became the most repeated 9a in the world and in 8a data base, everyone has given it three stars. It has previously been done 30 times out of which five female ascents. Some of the latest repeaters have called it 8c+ and this is also the grade in the latest updated topo.
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