NEWS

Pongoose: Most advanced and expensive on the market
The Pongoose is the most advanced and expensive (97 Euro excluding shipping) clip stick out there. Beside putting up the quickdraws and also putting in the rope it can actually retrieve quickdraws as well as attach a brush and a camera on it. The collapsed length is just 720 mm and you can clip it in to your harness if you need it higher up. The extended length is 2.85 m. The big question is of course if it is worth it in comparison to a free natural version or the less advanced and expensive stick clip on the market? Having tested it, we can say that it is marginally better then the others on the market. You will probably save some time putting up and down quick draws but it is also personal which clip stick works best. Have you never used a clip stick but plans to buy one, this should be your best option. On the other hand, if you already have one and have learnt it's tricks, the benefits does not seem to be so big beside the "plastic" ones often get destroyed pretty fast.

14 5.14's (8b+ to 8c+) by Connor Herson (14)
Connor Herson is a multi-discipline climber doing it all from big wall trad climbing to competitions. At the same time he has been focusing multiple ascents instead of just some few hard redpoints projects. "In August last year, right after I sent my second 5.14 (8b+), my friend Hobbs and I joked about climbing 14 5.14's before turning 15. I didn't take it seriously at all, but later that trip I sent two more, and it seemed like it could happen. If I averaged one a month, it would be possible. However, between August and December, I was focused on competitions so I didn't even get to try any. After that, I ticked four more in between December and March, and then came my trip to the Red. Beforehand, I thought that if I climbed well, I might be able to pull of two, but I surpassed my expectations by sending Lucifer (8c+), Southern Smoke, and Omaha Beach! I rode the psyche through the rest of April and the beginning of May, and, as well as doing the Nose and Halfdome each in a day, I managed to pull off this goal at a local sport crag called Jailhouse! Looking forward to the future, I think I would like to send one or two more 5.14's before turning 15 in July because one (God's Own Stone) I did while I was 13 so instead of 14 5.14's before turning 15, I could make it 14 5.14's while I am 14 years old, which sounds pretty cool. Beyond that, I am going to be focusing on competitions over the summer, but I'll be doing some climbing in Yosemite beforehand. (c) Andrea Laue - Lolita 5.14a at Jailhouse Rock

The first female 9a is today considered to be Josune Bereziartu's Bain de Sang from 2000 although also 8c+ have been forwarded. In fact, looking at the female 9a advent statistics, most are today thought to be closer to 8c+/9a. 9a: Josune Bereziartu - Bain de Sang 2000 9a+: Margo Hayes - La Rambla 2017 9b: Angela Eiter - La Planta de Shiva 2017 8c+/9a Statistics (out of which 9a's and harder) 8: Anak Verhoeven (4) 4: Angela Eiter (3), Josune Bereziartu (2), Laura Rogara (1)

Jonathan Siegrist comments Jumbo Love 9b
Jonathan Siegrist started to work on Jumbo Love in 2016. Last week he did the Chris Sharma 9b after an intense month with eleven sessions, after some 45 tries in total. In order to reach the 80 meter route you need to drive 10 miles on a bad dirt route and climb a 7c+ intro route. (c) Cameron Maier - Bear cam Media "I chose Jumbo Love because I am incredibly motivated by the history and the allure of such a wild and remote route. The logistics are a serious consideration for this route because of itโ€™s environment, the access road is very serious and rugged and the hike is steep and strenuous in the desert heat. It felt impossible for me to climb well on the route for more than one day in a row. Also I really felt like my conditions window was pretty small so waiting for the right days was important. For these reasons alone I was only able to try the route on about 11 days over the entire month. Patience is always a key factor in any hard project but for this it felt even more important than usual. It takes around 2.5 hours from my house to the base of the cliff, especially because I hike really slowly! I changed my training considerably for this climb because for the most part the holds are actually good, itโ€™s just the movement is massive throughout. As a shorter climber (167 cm) I worked extra hard over the winter to try and train with huge moves and become a little more dynamic, and mostly dropped my focus on finger strength. Next I am planning my escape from the brutal Las Vegas summer to Canada!"

8C (B+) by Sam Weir
Sam Weir started climbing in 2012 and within a year he reached 8A. Last year the 27 year old did his first 8C and now he has done The Ice Knife 8C (B+) in Guanella Pass. "Amazing consistent compression climbing with some tricky toe hooks and small feet. Really extended in the arms. Probably not possible if you have a smaller reach than me? Took me 3 days but I have been training in the gym and climbing on Hypnotized Minds which is much harder. Feels to be the same grade as paint it black 8C, low end. Video"

9a by Barbara Zangerl
Barbara Zangerl has done Cedric Lachat's Speed Integrale 9a in Voralpsee, which was a 10 m extension to Beat Kammerlander's Speed 8c+. It took Babsi some 15 days and the sending day was amazing. "What a day!!!!โ€”at 7 a.m. I finished my nightshift at the hospital; right after we drove to Voralpsee; without any expectations. Energy was pretty low in the morning, but somehow the day ended with this crazy fight through this big route! On my last try of the day-> I DID IT!!!" Jacopo Larcher Interesting she did it the first time also doing Speed 8c+. "The extension is powerful on slopy pockets ...not easy to climb that with pumped forearms." Ten years ago, the 163 cm Austrian was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which had her to stop bouldering. Today, including trad FA up to 8c and several 8c+' in sport as well as world class multi-pitches and big walls up to 8b+ on El Cap, she is the best female multi-discipline climber. "I love all disciplines. I couldn't focus just on one all over the year. Next is Canada is a trip to Canada for June and July. Excited to go there for my first time. Always fun to see new places."

90 year anniversary for La Sportiva
ADVERTORIAL - La Sportiva celebrates its 90th anniversary with a reboot of its climbing line: there are 5 classic models involved in the modernization operation with more modern designs and aesthetic solutions in line with the times. Make way then for the new versions of Miura, Futura, Cobra, Katana and Solution!