NEWS

21 July 2018

Briancon Finals

8A+ (B) by Anna Liina Laitinen
Anna Liina Laitinen reports on Insta that she has done Daniel Woodsโ€™ Fragile Steps 8A+ (B) in Rocklands. (c) Jess Talley Previously, Anna has done several 8c+โ€™ as well as 8b onsight. โ€This year I wanted to go somewhere where I havenโ€™t been before and Rocklands is a good place to go on a summer time and it was a new one for me. I also wanna get more powerrrrr :) I learned alot on this trip and everything Iโ€™ve learned will help me on sport climbing. Iโ€™d also love to do trad this year and get better as a climber in general, challenge myself in a different levels etc!!!โ€

Exciting end of the semi in Briancon
Kind of a slow semi until Anak Verhoeven was timed out and pulled down as she was getting ready for dynoing to the top. Then, suddenly, a heavy rain storm started as Janja Garnbret and Romain Desgranges started to climb and luckily they both made it to the finals as the wall begun to get wet from above. If the rain storm would have come just some minuters earlier, the whole semi might have been cancelled. (c) Eddie Fowke Noteworthy is that 50 % of the female finalists come from Slovenia and Domen Skofic is leading among the male. It should also be mentioned that most of the best Japanese and Jain Kim from Korea did not participate due to the Asian cup coming up. Nevertheless, Japan did have seven guys into the semi. Complete results

8a+ flash and much more by Oriane Bertone (13)
Oriane Bertone has during the last two weeks done ten routes 8a to 8b including four flashes where La Ballade dโ€™abdallah 8a+ in St Leger sticks out. Previously the 13 year old has done two 8B boulders, being 11 years old, and one 8B+ being 12.

Cathy Wagner has done her 15th 8b, Requiem in Prรฉcipice de Corbiรจre. The almost 53 year old did her first 8b being 35 years old and as a matter of fact, during the last year she has done three 8b's and 16 routes 8a+, meaning she has her best year ever. In total, Cathy has done 670 routes 8a and harder, out of which possibly a third second go. "Really unexpected to do this outstanding king line! A massive overhang offering climbing at its best:perfect rock, two hard sections, a technical wall at the end and knee bars to make it possible to control this beast! What a great day shared with a lot of friendly climbers! Super contente!!"

19 July 2018

Kyparissi

As a preparation for the Olympic Games qualification, IFSC has changed the Overall ranking. Only athletes that have participated in at least two events per discipline are included in the ranking. In other words, in the below ranking, Tomoa Narasaki's score of 8 is based on 1 * 1 * 2 * 4 * 1 *1 (Boulder/Lead/Speed). His best result is Speed is #31 but as none of the 30 higher ranked have participated in also Lead and Boulder, he is the #1 ranked in Speed. Noteworthy is that 9 out of the Top-8*2 come from Japan. 1. Tomoa Narasaki 8 - Miho Nonaka 24 2. Jakob Schubert 192 - Akiyo Noguchi 120 3. Kokoro Fujii 270 - Iuliia Pantaleeva 3 528 4. Yoshiyuki Ogata 960 - Mei Kotake 8 064 5. Jernej Kruder 9 504 - Petra Klingler 8 600 6. Kai Harada 10 800 - Futaba Ito 15 360 7. Yufei Pan 21546 - Jain Kim 16 016 8. Keita Dohi 45 696 - Elena Krasovskaia 17576 Complete results "11.7.8 Only competitors who compete in a minimum of 2 (two) World Cup competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) in the current season shall be given an Overall World Cup Ranking. When a competitor participates to more than 2 (two) competitions in a discipline than the best 2 (two) results in that discipline shall be selected. 11.7.9 The Overall World Cup Ranking shall be calculated as follows: i. Each eligible competitor shall be awarded โ€œRanking Pointsโ€ for each completed competition equal to the relative ranking calculated by ranking in ascending order (i.e. lower values are better) only competitors satisfying Article 11.7.8. ii. A Ranking Point Total shall be calculated for each relevant competitor by multiplying together the Ranking Points awarded for each eligible competition. iii. Each relevant competitor shall be ranked in ascending order of the Ranking Point Total calculated for each competitor (i.e. lower values are better)."