Janja Garnbret got her 13th World Cup victory in Arco. In the last 15 Lead and Bouldering World Cups she has entered, her worst result is bronze and she has won ten. Among the male, Jakob Schubert got his 19th Lead victory. The route setting was not at it's best as the best male just came two thirds of the route and for the female, time was an issue. At the same time, it should be mentioned that the route setting was perfect in both the qually and the semi. 1. Jakob Schubert - Janja Garnbret 2. Stefano Ghisolfi - Jessica Pilz 3. Domen Skofic - Anak Verhoeven 4. Adam Ondra - Claire Buhrfeind 5. Shuta Tanaka - Helene Janicot Complete results On the picture (c) Eddie Fowke, Claire Buhrfeind (19), who with 8.90 is the fastest speed climber of the non-speed specialists. In 2018, she has also been #18 in bouldering. The other #4, Adam Ondra, did just come back from one month rock climbing trip in Canada and did use the comp as his first preparation for the World Championship in Innsbruck in September.

1. Jakob Schubert 335 - Janja Garnbret 380 2. Stefano Ghislofi 286 - Jessica Pilz 340 3. Alex Megos 230 - Anak Verhoeven 181 4. Domen Skofic 228 - Manon Hily 167 5. Romian Desgranges 201 - Ashima Shiraishi 159 Complete results

Double tops from Janja Garnbret, Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert in Arco Lead qualifications. Max Rudigier had some interesting results ending dead last on his first route as he slipped from hold #1 but as he topped his second route, he made it to the semifinal Top-26. Complete results Semifinal on Saturday 12.00 and Finals starts 19.45 with the female. (c) Eddie Fowke capturing Hannah Schubert who was #4.

Jernej Kruder leads the Boulder World Cup 2018. Interesting is that his success did come after he started focusing on mainly sport climbing outdoors. In the profile video from Céüse, he explains more.

Barbara Zangerl reports on Insta that she and Jacopo Larcher have repeated the Path 8b+ R at Lake Lousie. R added to the grade means long run-out and risk for injury. (c) Jacopo Larcher Barbara was some ten years ago one of the best female boulderers including the first female 8B, Pura Vida. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her to stop bouldering. Including several world class multipitches up to 8b+, trad up to 8c and sport up to 9a, the 30 year old must be considered the best female multi-discipline climber in the world.

The world famous bouldering and sport climbing destination Maltatal, in the south of Austria, has a great website now. Climbing guidebook author and main developer Gerhard Schaar has put up maltatal.rocks in order to inform about the whole area. The website is available in all major languages! 8a has made a short interview with Gerhard Schaar. In the picture, Gerhard Schaar, Hochsteg © Rainer Eder.

In 2005, Tommy Caldwell did open Magic Mushroom 8b+ on El Cap. Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher did the first repeat of it in 2017 after spending eleven days on the 900 meter wall. Here is Babsi's story focusing on the adventure and partnership with Jacopo.

Gery Petrova has published a detailed article about climbing in Mallorca. "I’ve been diving deeper into the rock climbing lifestyle of Mallorca for more than 2 years now. Every month I discover something new and exciting not only about the rock but also about my inner journey and the people I share it with. I have a lot of friends from abroad who have merged with the local scene and can’t imagine living outside of this paradise for rock junkies who can’t live away from the beach. Every day is made special by the unique gifts the island has in store for us. This article was inspired by the need to share this knowledge and experience."

Loic Zehani has made the FA of La fiesta del biceps 9a in Gargantua. This was the 17 year old's ninth 9a out of which the first one he did just 14 years old. This spring he also repeated his first 9a+. "La fiesta del biceps" is a very big overhanging route located in a big cave close to Avignon in south of France. Many route are manufactured but it's interesting for the gestural and very impressing 35 meters roof (or big overhang).The route is compose of three parts: the first part is a stamina part (8c) on pockets, sometimes without feet. After a rest on two good holds but in a roof you have a second part more bouldery in a big overhang. This is the "crux" in the sending. After another physical rest you have the last part (the easy one) but you are tired and I think it's possibly to fall. I think it's possibly 9a. It was bolted by Thomas Sandri and Alexandre Serres. Here is video of the send.”

IFSC reports, "Vertical-Life, a leading provider of business software for the climbing industry, has recently been commissioned by the IFSC to develop the new membership database and competition result software."