25 July 2018

9a FA by Loic Zehani (17)

Loic Zehani has made the FA of La fiesta del biceps 9a in Gargantua. This was the 17 year old's ninth 9a out of which the first one he did just 14 years old. This spring he also repeated his first 9a+. "La fiesta del biceps" is a very big overhanging route located in a big cave close to Avignon in south of France. Many route are manufactured but it's interesting for the gestural and very impressing 35 meters roof (or big overhang).The route is compose of three parts: the first part is a stamina part (8c) on pockets, sometimes without feet. After a rest on two good holds but in a roof you have a second part more bouldery in a big overhang. This is the "crux" in the sending. After another physical rest you have the last part (the easy one) but you are tired and I think it's possibly to fall. I think it's possibly 9a. It was bolted by Thomas Sandri and Alexandre Serres. Here is video of the send.โ€
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