NEWS

8b+ trad by Zangerl and Larcher
Barbara Zangerl reports on Insta that she and Jacopo Larcher have repeated the Path 8b+ R at Lake Lousie. R added to the grade means long run-out and risk for injury. (c) Jacopo Larcher Barbara was some ten years ago one of the best female boulderers including the first female 8B, Pura Vida. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her to stop bouldering. Including several world class multipitches up to 8b+, trad up to 8c and sport up to 9a, the 30 year old must be considered the best female multi-discipline climber in the world.

Jernej Kruder leads the Boulder World Cup 2018. Interesting is that his success did come after he started focusing on mainly sport climbing outdoors. In the profile video from Cรฉรผse, he explains more.

New website and topo for Maltatal
The world famous bouldering and sport climbing destination Maltatal, in the south of Austria, has a great website now. Climbing guidebook author and main developer Gerhard Schaar has put up maltatal.rocks in order to inform about the whole area. The website is available in all major languages! 8a has made a short interview with Gerhard Schaar. In the picture, Gerhard Schaar, Hochsteg ยฉ Rainer Eder.

In 2005, Tommy Caldwell did open Magic Mushroom 8b+ on El Cap. Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher did the first repeat of it in 2017 after spending eleven days on the 900 meter wall. Here is Babsi's story focusing on the adventure and partnership with Jacopo.

IFSC reports, "Vertical-Life, a leading provider of business software for the climbing industry, has recently been commissioned by the IFSC to develop the new membership database and competition result software."

Mallorca insights
25 July 2018

Mallorca insights

Gery Petrova has published a detailed article about climbing in Mallorca. "Iโ€™ve been diving deeper into the rock climbing lifestyle of Mallorca for more than 2 years now. Every month I discover something new and exciting not only about the rock but also about my inner journey and the people I share it with. I have a lot of friends from abroad who have merged with the local scene and canโ€™t imagine living outside of this paradise for rock junkies who canโ€™t live away from the beach. Every day is made special by the unique gifts the island has in store for us. This article was inspired by the need to share this knowledge and experience."

Loic Zehani has made the FA of La fiesta del biceps 9a in Gargantua. This was the 17 year old's ninth 9a out of which the first one he did just 14 years old. This spring he also repeated his first 9a+. "La fiesta del biceps" is a very big overhanging route located in a big cave close to Avignon in south of France. Many route are manufactured but it's interesting for the gestural and very impressing 35 meters roof (or big overhang).The route is compose of three parts: the first part is a stamina part (8c) on pockets, sometimes without feet. After a rest on two good holds but in a roof you have a second part more bouldery in a big overhang. This is the "crux" in the sending. After another physical rest you have the last part (the easy one) but you are tired and I think it's possibly to fall. I think it's possibly 9a. It was bolted by Thomas Sandri and Alexandre Serres. Here is video of the send.โ€

9a+ FA by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra finishes of his Canada trip by doing the FA of Sacrifice 9a+ in Echo Canyon. โ€Nice project to the right of Honor and Glory, bolted by Evan Hau. Hard kneebar boulderproblem into pumpy climbing.โ€ (c) Petr Pavlicek Bernartwood On Insta Adam explains the sname of the route. "As much as it is fun to climb on established routes, we should give a credit to everyone who makes the "sacrifice" to bolt and clean the routes for all of us!"

8B again by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus, who previously has done two 8B+โ€™, has done her 14th 8B, Doppelgรคnger Poltergeist in RMNP, in just four sessions. James Lucas โ€Did all the moves the first day and fell on the end on the 2nd, then the boulder started being wet. Ending up doing it while it was soaked just cause I was so psyched, and i tired super super hard to make sure I finished it! Psyched to step my game up more! Great power endurance boulder tho! Definitely a hard 8b, excited to feel good coming to Africa :)"

Mikel Linacisoro and Julija Kruder win the Psicoblock Masters
Spanish youth champion Mikel Linacisoro and Julija Kruder won the Psicoblock Masters in A Coruรฑa, Spain, during the Street Stunts festival. Nacho Sรกnchez set the superb routes where the fastest climber of each round was the winner. The final rounds were super exciting due to the rain and the wet top holds. Mikel won the comp just one hold further than psicobloc legend Chris Sharma. The comp format was brilliant and a completly success despite the rain in front of 3.000 spectators. In the picture venezuelan Francis Guillรฉn learning to fly on the training session before the comp. ยฉTalo Martรญn 1-Mikel Linacisoro ESP - Julija Kruder SLO 2-Chris Sharma USA - Svana Bjarnason FRA 3-Jernej Kruder SLO - Fanny Gibert FRA