At the Asian Beach Games in China, Yicheng Zhao shattered Sam Watson’s Speed World Record, lowering it from 4.64 to 4.58 seconds. The 16-year-old, already a three-time Youth World Champion, was competing in his first senior-level event at the Asian Games. Here is his incredible record-breaking run.

Lorenzo Bassi, with eight 8B’s under his belt, has done the first ascent of Shiba Inu sit (8C) in Göscheneralp. ”The war is over! 10 sessions for this incredible line! FIRST 8C! After sacrifices and suffering, I managed to take home what has been my best ascent ever. Special thanks to Diego, Mario, and everyone who was there. “It was my moment.” And yes, for those who doubted… I finished the Nutella 😛”

Can you tell us more about the process behind the FA and skipping the 8B+ grade?
The story of this boulder started in a very natural way. I wasn’t looking for a specific grade, but for a line that would truly motivate me. When I first saw it in Göschenen (in Switzerland), it was immediate: aesthetic, logical, and with movements that demand absolute precision. From that moment, it became a long-term project.

I had already climbed the stand version, a solid 8B, back in early 2025, so returning in 2026 was more about reactivating those movements and rebuilding confidence. The real challenge was linking everything from the sit start: building the first section, stabilizing the foot switch, and arriving at the crux in the right position. The crux is a single move around 8A, very intense but also extremely dependent on body alignment. For a long time, it wasn’t about strength, but precision, being just a few millimeters off meant falling.

The process was not linear. There were moments of big progress, but also forced breaks due to weather, snow, and especially skin management. Interestingly, those breaks turned out to be essential: they allowed me to recover and come back each time fresher, both physically and mentally.

Over time I realized that on a boulder like this, it’s not about trying a lot, but about trying well. I reduced the number of attempts and focused on quality. When the crux became almost automatic as a single move, I knew the boulder was ready to be sent, it was just a matter of putting everything together in one clean run.

The day I sent it was quite special. I didn’t feel in perfect shape: little sleep, average sensations. But maybe that helped me climb without pressure. I only took a few attempts, and on one of them everything aligned: precise feet, perfect tension, no hesitation on the crux. And suddenly, I was topping out.

As for “skipping” 8B+, it wasn’t really planned. In recent years I’ve focused more on specific training and the quality of projects rather than following a linear grade progression. I was probably lucky to find a boulder that suited my style very well: powerful, precise, and very dependent on body tension. I also came from a very solid training period, so the level was already there. I don’t really see it as “skipping a grade”, but rather as the result of a process: when everything aligns; training, experience, conditions, and mindset, the grade becomes a consequence

Maël Musson, who last year sent six 9a’s, has made the first repeat of Mathieu Bouyoud’s Deep Spot (9a+) in La Balme de Yenne. (c) Arthur Delicque

”Incredible! What a pleasure to finally send this mega route 11 years after Mathieu! This route is exceptionally impressive: 55–60 meters long, including 30 meters of overhanging wall at 50°. Very few people have tried it, and yet it deserves to be climbed much more. I spent 9 sessions on this route, 6 of them just figuring out how to dial it in. Huge congratulations again to Mathieu for having had the vision back then.”

Pierre Shankland, who did his first two 9a’s last year, has done Sever The Wicked Hand (9a) in Frankenjura. (c) Pierre Minaret

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I first came to try Sever the Wicked Hand last November, but the conditions were absolutely horrible. It rained for ten days straight and was freezing cold. I still managed to try the route a few times, falling on the chain of Battle Cat (8c) (which shares the same ending) because the final crack was completely wet.

I came back last month for a short trip and got on it again with Sven Lempereur. We both put in some good tries, falling a few times in the long endurance section at the very end. Yesterday was my first session of my third trip, and I sent it first go ! I felt way stronger on the middle crux (a fingery 7c+/8a boulder problem) and fought all the way to the anchor.

Super happy with this send! The route is probably in the low 9a range, or hard 8c+. The trip isn’t over yet, I’m planning to try the right exit Style boys (9a) as well as Action Directe (9a) with Ludo Delmotte.

Matthew Mendes, who two weeks ago flashed Dandelion Mind (8B/+), has repeated Will Bosi’s Trance (8C) in Peak District.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The process on Trance was much shorter than I was expecting only taking 3 sessions after sending Bewilderness (8B+) . Though, in these sessions I had very little attempts due to issues with skin and some holds being wet. In the end I only had a total of about 5 send attempts on the boulder before I ended up sending. I also got very unlucky on an earlier attempt falling on the last move due to tape sliding off my finger tip.

Victor Guillermin, who last year won the gold in the European Youth Championship, has sent Era Vella (9a) in Margalef on his second attempt, giving it a personal 8c+ grade. Until 2018 it was the most repeated 9a in the world but then it lost it’s popularity possibly due to being downgraded. Later a foothold broke which made it a popular 9a again.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It was my first time in the Catedral sector, and I went there with a friend with the goal of flashing Era Vella. Unfortunately, I hadn’t prepared enough. I had only watched a few videos (which weren’t complete), so it was quite hard to understand the holds and the moves, especially since there are many different betas on this route. My friend tried to explain the moves to me, but we climb very differently, so I couldn’t really use her beta, especially with my fat fingers.

I gave it a flash attempt, but climbed the beginning quite poorly, making unnecessary moves and hesitating. I definitely should have prepared better. Still, I kept going, knowing that if I reached the jug after the crux, I could get a good rest and then go all in for the upper part. I made it to the crux but fell on the dynamic move to catch the “potato,” already pretty pumped. I should have kept pushing mentally, even in that state!

After that, I checked the rest of the route. An hour later, I felt ready for another go. I knew I could do it on my second try, but I struggled to remember the beta from the ground, every move felt similar, and I had no clear idea where to place my feet. Still, I went all in, and it didn’t feel that hard. I was climbing well and had some margin. There were just a couple of dynamic moves after the crux where I really had to dig deep to stay focused, all the way to the top!

I’m incredibly happy to have climbed such a legendary line by Chris Sharma on my second go. Without a doubt, one of the best routes of the grade! It also shows me that with better preparation, a 9a flash could be possible. Now, focus on the upcoming World Cup season, and then the big goal this fall: Stoking the Fire in Santa Linya, which I was super close to sending!

What are your thoughts behind your 8c+ suggestion?
I think the route suits me well physically because it’s a mix of rest and crux sections. If you’re powerful enough, you can skip quite a few holds. However, having bigger fingers can make it a bit harder. That’s why 8c+ feels accurate, or even 8c+/9a for bigger climbers.

Camilla Bonnell, who did her first 8b at age nine, has sent God's Own Stone (8b+) in Red River Gorge (KY). The 11-year-old had attempted the route on various trips in the past. Just two weeks prior to sending, she had fallen on the first move coming out of the notable crux. "I was so excited to get on God's Own today. We warmed up on the route "Supafly". Then went over to the Gold Coast and got on "God's Own". I tried it for my second attempt, and was able to get through the crux and send it!" (c) Nate Firestorm Foster

Can you tell us more about her climbing background?
[Her father Dan answered our follow up questions]. Camilla originally came from a non-climbing family. So, when she was 4-years-old and asked to go rock climbing, we had to find a local gym (as we do not have access to outdoor climbing near our home). Camilla became more interested in climbing after top-roping for the first time at age 7. Within a couple of months, she was learning to lead and soon after that we decided it would be fun to climb outdoors. That’s when we started making the 7.5 hour weekend drives (one-way) to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. By age 8 she was climbing 5.12/7b. She had a notable ascent of Ultraperm (5.13d/8b) at age 9. Soon after, we began learning route development under the mentorship of Jared Hancock.

Over the last 2 years Camilla has focused on ticking numerous 5.13s in the Red River Gorge, as well as other sport climbing and bouldering trips. She has dedicated time to route development and making first ascents as well over this time.

When not climbing outdoors, Camilla enjoys competing. She’s had success competing in the USA Climbing Youth Series where she has won a number of championship events, as well as occasional open comps. Outside of climbing, Camilla stays active playing futsal and competing in cross country. She finds rest enjoying a good book!

How does a normal climbing week look like?
A typical week of training, when not traveling, consists of about 4 gym sessions as well as “off-the-wall” training most days. Depending on the time of year, gym sessions might focus on training endurance by running laps on a lead wall, or power on a training board or spray wall. Sessions focused on comp movement are always part of the weekly routine.

Elisa Lauretano, who sent her first 8B in July, has completed Fortunadrago (8B) in Varazze. ”First “hard” block after the injury… It feels like a dream to be back climbing like before! Definitely not the perfect season to do it with over 20 degrees, but in the end it worked. Super happy 😊”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
Last July, due to a silly accident, I almost completely tore my right arm’s biceps. Three months of forced rest were followed by a long rehab, with physiotherapists predicting it would take at least a year to return to my previous level.

Since January, when I finally came back to the rock, the feelings have been surprisingly positive. As the weeks went by, my confidence grew along with the difficulty of the lines I was tackling. That’s how the idea of trying one of the most iconic boulders in Varazze was born: Fortunadrago (8B), a historic line fred by Christian Core. Despite the rising temperatures, I felt good on the moves right from the start. After a couple of sessions working the sequences and figuring out the right beta, I incredibly found myself on top of the boulder. Sending this line felt like a personal vindication and the perfect culmination of my recovery journey.

Was the accident climbing related?
I was swimming behind the SUP, my boyfriend dove from it and its fin hit my arm 🥲

Mattéo Soulé has repeated Wolfgang Gullich’s Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. It was put up in 1991 as the first 9a in the world and has been repeated at least 33 times. The 19-year-old has previously done six routes 9a and beyond.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
This route had always made me dream because it is a part of the history of rockclimbing, and i really like the one and two finger pocket. I decided to try it this year with my friend Justin and we came for 2 weeks with this project. Unfortunately he got hurt and couldn’t continue trying with me. At my first climb i did all the movement expect the first that i didn’t try and on the next one i flashed this one. After that i directly put try where i fell halfway the route.

After all the other attempts I was just falling for this random movement. Then I made a hole in my skin at the first movement and I stopped trying it a little and focused on the end. Until sending from the second movement. The next day I put on a cold test because I felt good and I fell again at the same movement. I then put back a test but and I managed to pass the movement that caused me a problem and after that I forced more than I needed but it allowed me to fight and get to the top. It wasn’t my best attempt because I lost my feet several times but I felt super good and relaxed. I was so happy when I got to the top and even now I have trouble realizing.

Luca Bacer, with two 9a’s under his belt, has completed Halupca 1979 (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec. Uncut video on Youtube.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I was feeling in good shape, so a few weeks ago I decided to give this route a more serious go after some sporadic attempts over the past years. Good conditions allowed me to put in some solid tries and send it before summer. It felt easier than the other 9a’s I’ve climbed, but still harder than the 8c+ routes I’ve tried.