NEWS

Iron Curtain 9a+ (b) by Seb Bouin

11 July 2022

Iron Curtain 9a+ (b) by Seb Bouin

Sebastien BOUIN has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra’s, from 2013, Iron Curtain (9b) in Flatanger. The 29-year-old has published the full story on Insta, saying that due to his use of kneepads his personal grade is 9a+. The French has previously done seven routes 9b to 9c. (c) Marco Müller

"This year, I decided to return to Flatanger, without any real fixed objectives. I’m leaving myself open, and I will try what inspires me. So I started with Iron Curtain. The rock is so perfect, and the line is so cool. It took me 14 tries to do it, and 5 climbing days. I used kneepads to send it. I think the line is easier with kneepads. You can do the crux a bit differently. It's still quite hard, but less demanding on the shoulders, and more of a conventional boulder problem. Adam proposed a 9b grade without kneepad. And I am quite sure of this grade if you are not using kneepads. Regarding the time and investment it took me, it could be more 9a+ using kneepads. This line is exceptional."


Ondra and Garnbret comment on their victories

11 July 2022

Ondra and Garnbret comment on their victories

Stasa Gejo, the Discovery+ commentator, made great interviews with the winners Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret. (c) Petr Chodura

Ondra: “I definitely needed a break after the Olympics, but now I feel it’s the time – I got hungry for competitions. I think I picked up the best Lead World Cup on the circuit which is Chamonix and it was a great decision – I enjoyed climbing here. I love climbing when it’s actually dark, that’s when the time is still here in Chamonix and when all the crowd behind your back is unbelievable.

I think the more complex the route, the better for me. I especially liked the pinchy section at the top of the overhang. Then I was kind of disappointed that it was just a pure crimp fest, but I was pretty happy that I could actually recover a little bit before the last crimps. The last dyno I was pretty sure from observation that I could just reach, but it was not possible.


Garnbret: “I felt flowy. Usually I feel more nervous when I know a lot of girls before me already topped, but this time I was super calm and relaxed. I just climbed with a little bit of caution because I knew that I needed to top the route, but it was easy! Right now I’m really excited to go back home to fall back into a routine a little bit, and then I’m excited for Briançon.


Garnbret and Ondra win in Chamonix

10 July 2022

Garnbret and Ondra win in Chamonix

Janja Garnbret topped all her four routes with ease in Chamonix and won based on countback over Laura Rogora, Chaehyun Seo and Jessica Pilz. (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

Among the men, Taisei Homma was first out and fell dynoing to the top. The dyno was done with a pogo swing with his left foot which later landed on a big volume at the same time trying to grab the top jug. Later, everyone fell at least ten moves lower before Adam Ondra cruised it until he tried a double dyno move to the top. Interestingly, Adam’s climbing time was 3.10 meanwhile Taisei had used two more minutes.

Last climber out was Sean Bailey but he fell like Luca Potocar and Yannick Flohe going to hold 30. Then the confusion started as he did not get his obvious 29+ and he was fifth in the official list. The award ceremony started without Bailey. Then some seconds later Bailey got his + and his bronze.


10 July 2022

Multiple Tops in the Chamonix qually and semi

Adam Ondra made his first 2022 World Cup in Chamonix and got three straight Tops in the qualification and semi rounds. Among the males, there were a total of eleven Tops in the quarterfinal and then also Sean Bailey, Luka Potocar and Satone Yoshida topped the semi. The latter two topped only one of the qualification routes. Alex Megos also topped but was only given 13 points as he accidentally put some weight on the quickdraw, while clipping, when his foot cut loose. The big sensation was that Colin Duffy was #20 and Jesse Grupper #35. Jesse topped one route but toe-hooked outside the route on the second. Complete results

Natalia Grossman and Janja Garnbret did also top all three routes, as also Brooke Raboutou did but the latter was given 37 due to being timed out. Third is the ranking is Natsuki Tanii, who topped the semi but only one of the qualification routes. Complete results The finals starts 8.30 pm.

It should be mentioned that time will be crucial, especially among the males in the finals as 2 + 4 have the same results going into the finals. In other words, if Janja or Natalia get the same scoring, the faster will be ranked higher.


EDITORIAL

10 July 2022

Great Euro Youth Championship in Augsburg

In the European Lead Champion in Augsburgin Germany, 231 teenagers from 28 countries participated. Switzerland was the only nation getting two golds but overall no country dominated. The team manager from Norway, Reino Horak comments, "I talked to several other coaches and everyone said it was a very good organized competition with excellent route setting. It is interesting to see that the medals are so evenly spread over so many nations. Personally, I especially enjoyed the big fight all the strong boys from Great Britain put on."

Last weekend Norway got one gold in Dornbirn but in Augsburg, it was pretty much only the countries in northern Europe that did not get any Top-6 positions. It should also be mentioned that Alex Totkova did not participate as she instead competed in the Chamonix World Cup.

Juniors (2003-2004): Jonas Utelli SUI - Liv Egli SUI
Youth A (2005-2006): Toby Roberts GBR - Alessia Mabboni ITA
Juniors (2007-2008): Jan Stipek CZE - Flora Oblasser AUT


No More Greener Grasses 8A+ by Allison Vest and Alex Johnson

9 July 2022

No More Greener Grasses 8A+ by Allison Vest and Alex Johnson

Allison Vest and Alex Johnson have done No More Greener Grasses (8A+) in Mt Evans. Alex has both sends on her Insta. The 33-year-old has won two World Cups back in 2008 and 2010 and she has now done 15 boulders 8A+ and harder. Allison did her first 8B+ in 2022 and she is currently #2 in the 8a ranking game.

Vest (pictured): "Sent right before the storm and with an already damp top out… spicy. Such a good one!"
Johnson (spotting): "Always been on the life list. 2nd try this trip, remember trying in like 2008 and not being able to do any moves lol. Feeling pretty fit."


WR 5.00 by Kiromal Katibin in Speed

EDITORIAL

8 July 2022

WR 5.00 by Kiromal Katibin in Speed

Kiromal Katibin set yet another Speed World Record by running up the 15 m wall in Chamonix in just 5.00 seconds. In order to make the final, 5.61 was needed. Complete results (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

Among the females, Lijuan Deng was the fastest with 6.74 and here 7.73 was needed to make the Top-16 finals. Complete results


Umetnost 9a by Matjaz Zorko

8 July 2022

Umetnost 9a by Matjaz Zorko

Matjaz Zorko has done Umetnost (9a) in Ter after some ten sessions. "I can say that all the lines in this sector are so beautiful especially this one of course. I’m really happy to send it right before I go to a longer vacation. I'm going for one month to France and Spain! There are still projects in this sector which may be even harder, so i’m psyched for the future!😊" (c) Rajko Zajc


Jungfrau Marathon 9a by Anak Verhoeven

6 July 2022

Jungfrau Marathon 9a by Anak Verhoeven

Anak Verhoeven reports on Insta that she has done Jungfrau Marathon 9a in Gimmelwald. (c) Jon Thornton - Peak Imagery

The Belgian was previously a very successful competition climber and when it comes to outdoors, she has done 14 routes 8c+/9a and harder. In other words, although she's just 26-years-old, she is one of the best female climbers in history.

Could you tell us a little bit more about climbing this route?
I first spent two days climbing with local climbers, discovering the route and working the moves. On my third climbing day I went for the redpoint. I fell twice at the crux move; every time feeling a little better. I climbed through the crux on my third redpoint try and topped the route.


EDITORIAL

6 July 2022

Acknowledging cheater stones and pad stacking ascents (feedback welcome)

When a first ascensionist opts to place a stone or build a pedestal in order to start a climb and get off the ground, the added dilemma is that often such starting platforms get higher over time and first moves get easier and in some cases get skipped altogether. There are also instances where platforms and cheater stones are implemented by others after the FA has taken place. Yes, this is arguably climbing minutiae but we're curious to know how you think this could best be taken into account and managed in order to maintain consistency. The same goes for pad stacking hard sit starts. If the first ascensionist or repeaters deviate from the norm, are we at a point where the climber should always feel compelled to acknowledge that deviation, no matter how small, in order to maintain integrity and sporting fairness? Comments welcome!