Sungsu Lee, who climbed eight 8C’s and harder boulders last year after retiring from competitions, has sent Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor, twice. He repeated the climb because during his first send, his long T-shirt touched the pad after he had left the ground but before making the first move. He posted a video on Instagram, commenting, ”I know this is technically a dab*…what do you guys think? (c) Henrik Asklöf

”I had a feeling it might be an issue, so I went back two days later and did it again without the shirt. Judging from the comments on my post, some people are already calling it a dab, so I’m glad I redid it. I wanted a clean send for myself too.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I decided to go for Burden and did about 10 sessions on the replica beforehand, which helped me get a pretty good feel for the moves. I actually sent the real Burden on my 9th session, but when I reviewed the footage back at the accommodation, I thought it might cause some controversy. So I went back on my 10th session and sent it again without a T-shirt. I wanted a perfect, clean send.

* A dab typically happens when a boulderer cuts loose and their feet unintentionally touch the pad or a spotter. Even if the touch is minimal and the climber is securely holding a jug, such ascents are considered invalid.

David Fitzgerald, with one 8C+ under his belt, reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Last Line of Defence (8C+) in Yosemite (CA), which adds a low start to The Shield (8A). The 30-year-old started climbing at age 18, and within six months, he had done his first 7C; three years later, in 2016, he did his first 8B+, which was also the year he checked the low start project for the first time. (c) Zoe Canin

"This Winter, after all these years, I finally dug in. Instant obsession. I quickly found myself locking antlers with the crux feature, a pair of narrow, tendonitis-inducing pinches. The two hardest moves are centered around this feature: an intense toe hook release and a spectre-esque move out left. Pull too hard and I’d often end up in a heap on the ground, knuckles gushing. Over the season, I learned to work with the feature and not against it, to move around it and not through it. A timeless Valley lesson.

Back in March, I managed to break through into the stand, only to tragically wet-fire off the topout crimps after a badly-timed downpour. Limped away with a bruised heel/ego, but thankfully nothing worse. It then held its ground for another 6 sessions until I eventually wore it down; the extra fight making it feel all the more memorable. Feels like the most complex section of rock I’ve ever linked and best thing I’ve ever climbed!"

Timo Užnik, who has won five Euro Youth Cups, has flashed Stairway to heaven Level 2 (8B) in Kamniska Bistrica. He got the beta from his big brother, Nicolai Užnik, who flashed it one month ago. Nicolai, who was #5 in the World Championship and did the FA of Mount Doom (9A) in March, has now added a lower start, Stairway to hell (8C).

”(One move intro) first move is the crux and one of the hardest single moves I’ve done! Something between 8C and 8C+, not sure if it‘s enough for the + though. 8C/+ maybe ? Hard to grade since I don‘t have much experience on limestone and it’s always tricky estimating the grade of single moves… time will tell! awesome line. Thanks to Urh and co. for preparing everything!!”

In the video, they make the FA of Airbag (8B+) and Nicolai comments, "Five star line!! Took a while brushing the pretty high topout and figuring out the moves - around 8B+! Fun day + brotherly send train with Timo ;)"

How come you are not doing the World Cups this year?
After last season, I decided that this year I‘m gonna skip a few comps to have time again for outdoor projects and finally be mentally fully ready for the competitions. I will be competing again soon, though, with the World Cup in Prague, Bern and Innsbruck coming up next month!

Michaela Kiersch, who three weeks ago did a pumpy 8c+ route, has sent The Knowing (8B) in Magic Wood.

” It’s not often that I get to stand on top of a DREAM boulder! This boulder is one of the most beautiful, impressive, and striking lines in Magic Wood (and anywhere).

The crux consists of a highly technical heel hook sequence culminating in a big jump leftwards. From here, you have to hold it together on a committing and tall top out with big moves between good crimps.

I spent one session working the moves on a rope, and on the next sesh I warmed up by doing the top a few times (also on a rope) and was able to execute the full line on my first try from the ground! Truly perfect in every way (and ideal because I was not really planning to fall after the crux haha).”

William Bosi, with four 9A’s under his belt, has made the first ascent of the long-standing project Realm of Tor’ment (9A) at Raven Tor. (c) Band of Birds

”I’m incredibly happy and psyched to finally put this project down! This has probably been my longest boulder project to date, taking double-digit sessions and work over a couple of years. The send went perfectly for me. I climbed the bottom section well and just stuck the crux move. I was about as close as I could have been to failing on the last move, too.

The line starts on a perfect left-hand tufa pinch and a right-hand split crimp. From here, you have four steady but very engaged moves that lead to two pockets. This is where the crux sequence starts: a hard bump into a sharp right-hand undercut, then a high-tension foot walk. From here, you do the hardest move, which is a big dynamic left-hand slap to a bad small flat edge. I think this move alone is around a one-move 8B+/V14. Finally, you commit to another big slap up with the right hand to a good flake to finish.

Arriving at a proposed grade has been haunting me on this project ever since I started working on the boulder. Finding an accurate grade on short, punchy boulders is so difficult as the eventual grade is so dependent upon perfect beta and suiting the style and preference of the climber. However, drawing upon my own experience, I can say that it is a step above 8C+ boulders of a similar style and sits as a low-end 9A boulder. However, I welcome the thoughts of other climbers who get on this excellent problem.”

Tommy Caldwell, famous for establishing the 32 pitches The Dawn Wall (9a) in 2015, reports on Instagram that he has redpointed Empath (9a+) in Tahoe (CA). (c) Corey Rich

”With the way I used my trad-dad skills to get it done—it’s probably more like 8c.”

This was the 46-year-old’s first hard sport route since 2003 when he did the FA of Flex Luthor (9a+). Together with Alex Honnold and Sonnie Trotter, he has a race getting back to the 9a grade. ”I think the new race is for one of us to climb an old-school, indisputably 9a route.”

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has flashed Pelotari (8c+) in Margalef. ”One of the best route in this grade in Margalef, power-endurance style. My hardest flash ever.” (c) Jaume Cebolla Vincent

The Spaniard, with four 9b+’ under his belt, has also done the FA of Larga vida al rey (8c+). ”So happy to have the honor to do the first ascent of this awesome project, I think could be around 8c+/9a in comparison with the other routes in the same wall. Name dedicated to the king Iker Pou who bolted the route.”

These ascents were his first difficult routes since sending a 9b in December, as he had been focused on his major project, Café Colombia. Altogether, he has now invested over 200 sessions in the climb over several years, achieving some promising high points last month.

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has flashed Neil Gresham’s trad route Lexicon E11 (8b+ R) at Pavey Ark. The British E-grade is designed to assess the difficulty and the danger of onsighting a traditional climbing route. There exist one E12 and a handful E11’s. At the higher end of the scale, accurately evaluating these factors becomes challenging, so a French sport grade is often included for additional clarity. When an "R" is added, it indicates a significant Risk of injury. For example, falling at the final 7C boulder crux near the top of Lexicon could result in a 25-meter fall, with the potential to hit the wall hard. (c) Petr Chodura.

Jonathan Siegrist, who last month sent his seventh 9b, has done The Big Wish (9a) in Utah Hills. ”Had a blast climbing this thing! Felt a tad bit harder and more involved than either Big Claw or Big Head. The 'Big' extension really delivers.. the pump.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Since getting back from Italy I was keen to keep some of my shape from that trip - ideally holding on to as much as I could until I leave for Wyoming at the end of May! I knew that the various routes in the Fynn cave would be great training for this summer so I went out there this past week for 2 days and had a blast on the resistant style in there. I am a huge fan of 'training' on sub-limit routes outside. On Thursday I climbed the second ascent of 'Big Wish' 9a and also Big Head (8c+). Next I will try to get some of my many lingering projects up at 5G cleaned up and see if I can climb something more before I leave.

Naile Meignan, European Champion last year, won the Boulder World Cup in Curitiba just 0.1 points ahead of Oriane Bertone. “It feels amazing to win in my first competition of the year. I wasn’t expecting to be this good, but for sure it feels great. I was a bit tense on the first boulder, but then I felt more confident and was able to flash the following three problems. I will compete in Salt Lake City now, and it would be great to win another medal there!”

The 21-year-old made her first headline at age 9, when she sent her first 8a. Progressing one grade per year, she sent her first 8b+ being 12 years old.