NEWS

Seb Bouin FAโ€™s Vidra La Vida (9b/+)
Sebastien Bouin reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Vidra La Vida (9b/+) in Hvar. Already one month ago, he reported that he had done the first 9a pitch, Vidra, seven times but kept falling in the extension. (c) Thibaut Marot

โ€This is one of my proudest additionsโ€”without a doubt, in my personal top 5 9b/5.15b routes worldwide. The first section climbs around 8c+, leading into a crux that bumps it to 9a. Then comes a wild 360 crux, roughly 8A/V11 boulder. And to top it all off, thereโ€™s a final 8b+/c sectionโ€”I even fell there during a send attempt.โ€

At 32, Seb has alteady climbed 14 routes graded 9b, including seven first ascents. On top of that, heโ€™s completed seven 9b+ climbs and claimed the first ascent of DNA, the second-ever route graded 9c. In short, the French climber's redpoint rรฉsumรฉ rivals that of Adam Ondra.

Cristian Brenna, the well-known Italian climber and former competition star, has died in a tragic accident. He was hiking with a teammate from the Guardia di Finanzaโ€™s alpine rescue unit when he slipped on a forested trail on Monte Biaina and fell down a rocky slope.

Cristian was one of the top climbers in the 1990s and won a Lead World Cup event in 1998. He was known for his bold style, hard routes, and dedication to the climbing community. Over the years, he became a respected mountain guide, worked with the Italian climbing federation, and served on the alpine rescue team.

He is survived by his wife, Jana, and their two children, both of whom are among Italyโ€™s top youth climbers. Our heartfelt condolences go out to his family, friends, and the wider climbing community.

Jules Marchaland ticks Pornographie (9a)
Jules Marchaland, who was runner up in the French Nationals last month, has completed Pornographie (9a) in Cรฉรผse. In total, the 24-year-old has sent 19 routes 9a to 9b. (c) Julia Cassou

โ€4 days for the side proj of Ratsa [Vibration (9b)]. I struggled a lot more than I thought. One move at the very top cost me 6 falls. 2 minutes of climbing for 35 moves. I used my runner skills for this short power fingery route. This debate of grading is so shit because if you want a 9a you climb without kneebar. But for me itโ€™s just annoying to use kneepads in such a pure cliff. So for sure 9a without kneebar. 8c+ with. But today thatโ€™s the rule. Maybe I climb an 8c+ in an harder way. I donโ€™t care, itโ€™s such a cool route and a good effort.โ€

Jorge Diaz-Rullo flashed Pelotari (8c+) three weeks ago. โ€One of the best routes in this grade in Margalef, power-endurance style. My hardest flash ever.โ€

Dan Mirsky, 42, does Stocking Stuffer (9a)
Dan Mirsky, who the last three months previously has done two 9aโ€™s, has completed Stocking Stuffer (9a) in Rifle (CO). The picture is from Z-Nation (9a), which he did in March.

โ€ Sometimes a link up is more than the sum of its parts and when its parts are amazing boulder problems on two classic routes and another sick one to connect them, what you get is a pretty all time rig! Classic Rifle style: boulders, rests, knees, pump, and a satisfying "jump to the jug" finish. Super psyched to have put it together with the relative quickness (for me), even if I did fall at the end of the Stock Boys Crux a couple times...

Hard to say on the difficulty, as I think stylistically this one suited me quite well. I'll go with the proposed grade and be proud of my fastest ascent of a 9th level route, a solid spring campaign and 90th 5.14. Closing in on a hundy! Time to get serious about Cakes.โ€


Which routes were linked and how many sessions did you put in?
Stocking Stuffer connects Tom Foolery (8c) which I climbed in 2012 into the crux Stockboy's Revenge (8c) which I climbed around 2010. Whatโ€™s cool about SS is that You get to do the opening boulder of Tomfoolery which has some awesome "tufa" grips and is very resistance oriented, then the Stuffer (connection) section which climbs the underside of a big prow and feels like more like a compression boulder on granite, and then the crux of Stockboys which is quite technical with the knees, classic Rifle Style. The character of the route overall is quite pumpy because you get some fatigue from Tomfoolery, then the Stuffer section really adds more difficulty and pump and it makes doing the Stockboys crux quite challenging and ultimately the redpoint crux of the Route.

It took me a few days to learn all the beta (my memory must be getting worse because I basically had to learn both routes all over again), a few more days to make the connections and links to feel ready to try to redpoint and a few days getting very pumped in the Stockboys Crux and making subtle changes to improve the efficiency. In total I think it was around 10-12 sessions over 4 weeks. On The send I was still on the limit as I was finishing the Stockboys Crux and climbing into a good rest before the final outro boulder, which has some fun and fairly heroic pulls on good holds until you pull the final lip and exit the steepness.

Janja Garnbret onsights two 8cโ€™s
Janja Garnbret shared on Instagram that during a recent session in Osp/Misja Pec, she onsighted both Osapska poลกast L2 (8c) and Working class hero (8b+). [Due to broken holds, an upgrade to 8c have been suggested.] With these ascents, the 26-year-old Slovenian has onsighted a total of five 8c routes.

After nearly a decade of dominance on the competition circuit, Janja plans to compete in only three events in 2025 as she shifts her focus to outdoor climbing. Her next destination: Cรฉรผse.

Luke Zimmerman, who hasnโ€™t climbed anything harder than 8A in the past five years, has completed North Ridge (8B+) in Squamish.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind your PB?
V14 [8B+] was a grade that didnโ€™t even exist when I started climbing almost 30 years ago, and never something I thought was a realistic goal for me.

I was actually self-conscious talking about it. I felt like I had to explain to people I wasnโ€™t really expecting to send and that I was just enjoying the process of learning and making progress, which was true. I had decided that where Iโ€™m at in my climbing, I was motivated to try something with an upper limit beyond me, and I would have been satisfied putting in tons of effort and just making some big links.

The climb breaks down as 3 stacked v10 [7C+] boulder problems in a row, with a bad rest on a kneebar before the final one. Due to its style I was able to use a lot of tactics and find ways to eke out small improvements and continuously make progress, despite setbacks from injuries etc. 2 years ago, when I first started trying it, I would have sessions where I couldn't link more than a move or two together and it just seemed impossible. By just continuously showing up, putting the time in, as well as optimizing my training and nutrition, it started to seem possible.

50+ sessions later, all the work and preparation finally came together and I had that one go where everything went perfectly. Climbing is definitely a cool sport. It's incredible how much experience, tactics and most of all perseverance matter over just being young and strong.

Amandine Loury FAโ€™s 8c
Amandine Loury, with 16 routes 8c and beyond under her belt, has done the first ascent of Zen dans ta benz benz benz (8c) in Entrechaux. It was bolted by Jean Luc Jeunet and it took Amandine some seven days to complete.

Can you tell us more about the route?
Itโ€™s a short route very powerful in a 45 degrees overhang. The moves are very cool on tufas, crimp and two finger pocket. Itโ€™s a first ascent and I think it can be 8c. We will see with the other repetitions.

What is next?
The temperatures will be hot soon, so I donโ€™t know really. I have some 8b+/8c around home that I would like climbing. No really plans for the summer. It depends of the weather.

Kristรณf Modriรกn ticks Nova (8C)
Kristรณf Modriรกn, with just one 8B to his name, has repeated Jana Svecovaโ€™s Nova (8C) in Holstejn. The 19-year-old is from Hungary, a country with relatively few high-quality outdoor bouldering opportunities.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried it because Jana was in Budapest. We met her and asked how we can get to Moravsky Kras. She and Martin showed us the crag and I tried Nova, because I wanted to feel how hard an 8C is? I had 4 trips to Czech to climb the boulder.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was in the 7th grade, so almost 7 years ago. I am having a gap year now before university, to focus on climbing. The most important is that I love climbing on boards such as moonboard or any spray wall.

Nicolai Uลพnik, #5 in the World Championship in 2023, did the FA of Mount Doom (9A) three months ago. "In general, itโ€˜s very crimpy and intense. You have 8-9 moves 8B+/C intro into Hide and Sick, 8 moves or so without any rest, which makes it super hard to link. It is super tension and you need to be on point the whole time, cause any second you can slip or miss a hold slightly, which will affect your chances of doing it. "

โ€ฆ
66
โ€ฆ