NEWS

Isabelle Faus did Delusion of Grandeur 8B in Chironico last spring, commenting it might have been one of her best day of climbing. "Wow! So psyched, super classic boulder. Not my style at all....slopers.. really big crux move that is my full extension. Top out is high and committing and satisfying... I was scared on the slab! Not usually a FFA type of girl... but I think I'm the first girl to do this, and its one of the most classic boulders in Ticino so thats kinda cool. Went up and the electric ant (the new start) right after! Probably one of my best days of climbing!" Mellow has now released the uncut video.

Vertical-Life wins another two awards at ISPO
ISPO Munich: "The leading trade fair for sports professionals!" have for many years given out awards to the best innovations in the Outdoor industry. In the sport climbing segment, only Vertical-Life won awards in 2019 through their Training-Log and Smart Quickdraw. (The links and the motivations from the jury is not yet released.) ISPO runs 3/2 - 6/2 and there will for the first time be a special Indoor Climbing Hub with many lectures and on Sunday at 17.00, Vertical-Life host a party. In 2014, Vertical-Life got their first award for their Zlagboard and last year they won prices for their Smart scorecard and Rock Selfie. In total, they have now received nine trade fair awards.

2019 is a unique year in competition climbing due to the Olympic selection. The Top-7 in the Combined WCH will qualify to Tokyo and then the Top-20 in the Overall Combined WC ranking will fight over 6 spots in a special event. The Overall Combined is based on the two best results in each discipline which are multiplied. In practice this means that, most probably, the best athletes will be selective which comps to go for. As soon as they have qualified through the WCH or are sure to qualify to the special event they will skips some comps and instead focus on training. Add to that that the Japan Combined Championship, which will decide who will compete in the WCH, will be in late May. Here is a list which comps most probably will have the weakest starting list. Possibly it could be strategic for the guys just below the best to skip some comps and instead focus on the three listed below, beside the WCH and the special event. 7/6 Vail USA Bouldering 19/10 Xiamen China Lead/Speed 26/10 Inzai Japan Lead 11-22/8 Japan World Championship 28/11 - 1/12 Toulouse France The consequence of this is also that, most probably, it will be easier than ever to win or get a good result in especially the Lead World Cup 2019. The reasons for this are that the best will not do all WCs and also that they will not be optimized for Lead in 2019 as most of the best will train all three disciplines simultaneously. It might be that it will be more or less the same situation in 2020 as most of the best will focus training all three disciplines and skip some World Cups. Later, either climbing will have medals in three disciplines or we will be out of the Olympics and then it will be much harder to win the World Cup for sure. Add to that the trend of increasing domination from Japan who just might have five in Top-10 in all categories but Speed in the future.

UIAA wants help to identifying the world's corrission areas. In the reference map it seems the crags to look out for in Europe forms a belt from southern Portugal, via several Mediterranean island to Turkey. Outside Europe, Railay and Yangshou are two famous corrosion areas.

Cathy Wagner, famous for having done 705 routes 8a and harder since 1994, has done Octographe 8b in Russan. Only during the last 12 months, the 53 year old has done 63 routes 8a and harder and she would have been #2 in the Age and Gender bonus ranking, it she would have participated. "A terrific climbing day! Sending a perfect route - very steep on (still) super dry tufas with a demanding final section. I think it's better when you're both tall and good at 'knee-baring'! Many thanks for cheering me on and congratulating me, that was really kind of you! Needed 3 days."

From Dirt Grows... 8C by Christof Rauch
Christof Rauch, who the last year has done 150 boulders 8A and harder, has done his eight 8C, From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico. (c) David Pilaj "Finally! Should have done it on the last day of my New Years trip but messed it up 6 times at the mantle. Tried it 2 times a few years back but couldnโ€™t do this nasty mantle. This year it felt much better and I managed to send it on my 5 sessions of the year. Such an iconic line established by the master Dave Graham! More than happy to put it down!" Interesting is that Christof works full time as an engine-building technician and electrician in a waterplant. Chatting on Facebook with him 23.12 asking for pictures and comments he said he had to go to sleep as he had to wake up 05.45. Here are some comments we have gotten earlier. - I would say that my secret is my nearly endless motivation and that I'm not afraid about driving far for some new boulders. ;-) After my work I go climbing outside or train in a little gym once or twice a week. Almost every weekend I go climbing outdoors.