In 2012, 55 year old Jean-Pierre Bouvier put up the FA of Fou Rire aller/retour in Fontainebleau as the second 9a boulder traverse in the world. "Aller/retour" means that you first traverse it from the left to right 8B and then combine it traversing from right to left, which in it's own is 8C. Historically such climbs have not been defined as boulders by the climbing community and there exist a separate traverse grading somewhere in between route and bouldering grading. In other words, the difficulty of Bouvier's challenge should be equivalent to a 9a+/9b route but for some reason the 55 year old's extraordinary "world record" achievement is not recognized in the climbing world. 8a has previously discuss the subject and said super long traverses or roofs could be defined as boulder routes. In fact, the 60+ mover The Wheel of Life put up by Dai Koyamada in 2004, was recognized as the first 8C+ boulder for some years although Dai had said, "This is not bouldering. When it comes to routes, Fred Rouhling put up Akira in 1995 as the first 9b in the world and although it was also done before the first 9a+, it has not gotten full recognition. The reason for this is probably because it issaid to be chipped and the difficulty is done as a bouldering roof traverse. Then Fred clicked in a rope to his harness and finished on easier terrain for two bolts. It is important to say that anybody could do any challenge they want and a 8C+ or 9b etc are super impressive no matter how it looks. However, when it comes to world class ascents of historical importance, it seems like the climbing community has tried to define what a route or a boulder are? If somebody put up a chipped and eliminated 60 moves roof as the first 9A+, should this be called the first 9A+ boulder in the world? Would not this be a bit mis-leading for the future generation defining what a quality boulder is about. The first female 8C boulder is said to be Ashima Shiraishi's Horizon which she did when she was 14 years old. Some do not agree saying it does not fit into the boulder definition as it is a 30 move endurance roof. Clearly Horizon is longer than many routes but personally I do think this line still fits in the boulder definition. What do you think? (c) Brett Lowell

Irina Kuzmenko has signed up with four 8A boulders including two the last week in Albarracin, El Astronave and Iker. The picture by Juliet Leonova is from Magic Woods where she did two 8A's last year. "I’m originally from Siberia. Climbing since 2008. Till 2014 was competing just in lead, then tried once a bouldering outside and fell in love. So since this time I compete at world cups in bouldering, but more motivated to climb outside For the future: I really would like to crush all limits and make my grade of climbing higher with every rock trip! In close future would like to done with 8B boulder, make it good on Nationals and feel free to climb around the world, explore new climbing areas!"

Charles Albert has opened the second 9A in the world, No Kpote Only in Fontainebleau. Later 8a published an article asking if this should be considered the hardest graded boulder in the world?, or more of a constructed problem as two traverse moves had been added to the more obvious (8C+?) sit start. Now Grimper confirms the polemics in an article where they say. "Knowing which is the most logical line is a debate that Charles had with other climbers who found the direct (a probable 8C+) more obvious."

Alex Honnold's documentory for Free Solo the 900 meters Freerider 7c, has been nominated for Best Documentary Feature at the 91st Academy Awards. The winner will be announced at the Academy Awards on February 24th. Photograph © 2018 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

Ethan Pringle, who has been one of leading climbers since he did Biography 9a+ in 2007, has done Kintsugi in Red Rocks on his fourth session, suggesting 8B+ as his personal grade. Based on his Insta story we asked if he could elaborate further in regards grading and what he likes the 8a - Time Comparison Grading theory, for which he agrees. "I think the amount of time it takes you to do something is pretty directly related to how hard it is, yep!" (c) Alex Arestei -Grades are a primarily a measuring stick for people's egos. Which is totally fine! There's nothing wrong with having an ego. We all have one. I think it's better to acknowledge that, than pretend it's not a thing. -Secondly, grades are a way to say: this is how hard this climb was for me, relative to climbs I've done in the past. Everyone can use them to help measure progress, and set goals, but pros can use them to communicate to fans of the sport, how hard they think a certain accomplishment was for them (rather than give people the move-by-move breakdown, or the whole story of their experience on a climb). Of course we humans like quantifying and ranking ourselves, each other, and our accomplishments, with numbers. But a number can't even come close to quantifying the very subjective experience on, and difficulty of, a rock climb. So, people shouldn't get too hung up on grades, because they are a shoddy, and vastly incomplete representation, at best. Even though I think grades are kinda dumb, I will attempt to comment on the grade of Kintsugi anyway. Because I too have an ego!!! I didn't really try the Nalle/Keenan beta, but it seems every bit as V15 as I can imagine. Nalle and Keenan know what V15 feels like, and I believe the boulder is that hard with the beta they used. But with the beta I used (the Nils ninja-toe catch), If I were to take just the crux, and lower it by eight feet, so would be right off the ground, I think the physical difficulty would be around V13. The fact that your ass is about 15 feet off he ground when you do the crux though, adds a huge physiological element that definitely raises the difficulty of the boulder. So, with the added element of the height, and the much easier intro moves, I think for me, the overall difficulty was in the 14 range. Even though I used easier beta, it's still one of the hardest climbs I've ever done. And definitely one of the best!!!

Andre Neres has done his third 9a by the FA of Filipinos in Meio Mango. (c) José Ferreira "One of the best and probably the hardest route i've done so far. Took me several sessions to figure out the beta. Bolted by Mike, I'm not sure about the grade, it's totally my style, harder than Estado Critico and way harder than Peixe Porco, i'll go for 9a, would be great to have other opinions. The route is around 18 meters, very explosive with a first crux that could be 8A boulder problem, followed by 2 more hard sequences, untill here it is around 8c/c+ and you get to a not so good rest, as you are on a 40 degree angle wall. After this you get to the last part, 15 hard and sustained moves where you can’t clip and should be around 8 by itself. It took me over 10 sessions to figure out the sequences and i’ve been trying it since i got back from Red River Gorge in November. Two months of hard work and many sessions on it, i was very lucky with the conditions. Meio Mango is easily one of the best unknown crags in Europe, it has 10 years of existence, it is a seacliff 45 min south from Lisbon on a place called Cabo Espichel, over 150 routes together with a new sector we are bolting called Atlântida. Plenty of easy and medium routes and a lot of potential for hard stuff. Breathtaking sunsets, no phone connection, no human constructions, dolphins cruising around frequently, it is a paradise by the sea. "

In the ranking game, you get almost three grades bonus for an onsight in comparison to a redpoint. The best onsight climber in the world is Adam Ondra and for him the three steps formula works almost perfectly, as it does also for many climbers. However, in general, the onsight level has not have the same progress as the repoints the last year. A good example of this is that Jakub Kovacik is #3 in the onsight game with 10 8a's, 4 8a+' and two 8b's. 8a has for many years said that everyone focusing on progress and especially juniors should take every opportunity to onsight, as Ondra did as a teenager. A good example of this is Jan Vopat (15) who is #6 in the onsight ranking game but only #37 overall. Among the female it is more or less the same story and her Martina Harnisch sticks out being a superior #1 in the onsight ranking game at the same time she is #8 overall.

1. Kyra Condie - Zach Galla 2. Brooke Raboutou - Nathaniel Coleman 3. Natalia Grossman - Sean Bailay 4. Ashima Shiraishi - Collin Duffy 5. Margo Hayes - Drew Ruana Kyra won actually all but Speed where she was #3 and should be put on the short list for one of the contenders for qualifying to Tokyo. Both Margo and Ashima suffer most from being like three second slower than best in Speed. Among the male, Zach's victory must be considered as big surprise as he was #9 and #16 in the Youth World's last year. The 18 year did below 6.84 in three rounds which is at the highest standard for the non-Speed specialists. Complete results

The best indicator to spot which routes and boulders are too soft for it's grade is to use statistics, i.e. the number of repeats and personal records. Here is a list of the most repated and almost all are actually subject of being down graded but the classical Action Directe which was put up as a 8c+/9a. It should be mentioned that the routes might be 9a now or in the future because of broken holds. 37 Era Vella 36 Estado Critico 26 Underground 25 Action Directe 20 La Fabela pa la Enmienda confirmed 19 Escltamasters 19 A Muerte 19 Seleccio Natural 17 La Cabane au Canada In practice, you can search the 8a data base for any hard core grade and you will find that almost all the most repeated are the ones also being subject for a down grade. Climbers are, logically, like water finding the easiest way to set a personal best :)