22 January 2019

Filipinos 9a FA by André Neres

Andre Neres has done his third 9a by the FA of Filipinos in Meio Mango. (c) José Ferreira "One of the best and probably the hardest route i've done so far. Took me several sessions to figure out the beta. Bolted by Mike, I'm not sure about the grade, it's totally my style, harder than Estado Critico and way harder than Peixe Porco, i'll go for 9a, would be great to have other opinions. The route is around 18 meters, very explosive with a first crux that could be 8A boulder problem, followed by 2 more hard sequences, untill here it is around 8c/c+ and you get to a not so good rest, as you are on a 40 degree angle wall. After this you get to the last part, 15 hard and sustained moves where you can’t clip and should be around 8 by itself. It took me over 10 sessions to figure out the sequences and i’ve been trying it since i got back from Red River Gorge in November. Two months of hard work and many sessions on it, i was very lucky with the conditions. Meio Mango is easily one of the best unknown crags in Europe, it has 10 years of existence, it is a seacliff 45 min south from Lisbon on a place called Cabo Espichel, over 150 routes together with a new sector we are bolting called Atlântida. Plenty of easy and medium routes and a lot of potential for hard stuff. Breathtaking sunsets, no phone connection, no human constructions, dolphins cruising around frequently, it is a paradise by the sea. "
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