NEWS

Piotr Schab towards the top with 3 rest days a week
Piotr Schab did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) when he was 16 years old and his first 9a+, Papichulo when he was 19 years old. In 2018, he did four 9a+' and last week he did one more, La Rambla. (c) Pablo Benedito "The biggest goal of the year is to climb a 9b. Iโ€™d love to go back to Fight or Flight. Now itโ€™s time to train again and the plan is to make a month long Catalan trip again in April. Hopefully Iโ€™ll be ready to try hard then and the conditions will make the efforts possible. If not Iโ€™ll switch again to my favorite style, onsighting and quick redpoints. There are still a lot of routes in a 9a/+ range that are waiting to be climbed. 8c+ onsight is a second big challenge that I look forward to achieve this year. So please tell us something about training? This winter I used to do 7 sessions in 4 days a week (3 gym training's included). 21 hours a week, super intense. Now itโ€™ll be different - less volume, more intensity so I hope to take a step further. Do you really mean three rest days a week? Yes - Neither climbing nor gym 3 days a week. While youโ€™re doing Raw power sessions in a gym I think itโ€™s more efficient. Iโ€™m quite satisfied with the results - in 14 days in Spain I could climb hard 2 days in a row followed by one rest day and it does not happen that often for me. Piotr finished off his Catalan trip by quickly doing 20 aรฑos despuรฉs 9a and Sin acido clorhidrico 8c+. "They are both are pretty manufactured but the moves and lines create a nice challenge."

Read more about the Honnold Foundation that Alex has run for ten years in order to, "PROMOTING SOLAR ENERGY FOR A MORE EQUITABLE WORLD".

8c+/9a by Iker Pou
19 February 2019

8c+/9a by Iker Pou

Iker Pou reports on Instagram that has repeated Xavi Gonzรกlez' route Santaropa 8c+/9a in Majorca. ยฉPedro Bover "Taking advantage of spring temperatures and good conditions, I get to get "SANTAROPA" 8c + / 9a in #Mallorca. First repetition, after the strong climber from Mallorca Xavi Gonzรกlez."

Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+ by Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
Tina Johnsen Hafsaas continues to deliver in Hueco Tanks and five days ago she did the classic Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+. Yesterday, during the Hueco Rock Rodeo, she did Dark Ages 8A. In the Combined ranking, the Norweigian is #3. Thilo Schrรถter The winners of Hueco Rock Rodeo 2019 were Michalea Kirsch and Keenan Takahashi. Report to follow.

Rock & Ice have published an open letter - Chipping and Manufacturing Climbs in Ten Sleep Canyon Needs to Stop. The original letter is mainly pointing out one guy who last week come clean and said he had stopped chipping almost a year ago. This is how he finished a post in a Facebook thread. "I also in no way am trying to discount what I have done. Regardless of what was done previously in the canyon, I have crossed lines when bolting some of my routes. I own this 100% and have paid for those choices, am now paying for them, and will no doubt pay more in the future for them." I have been in contact with the guys writing the open letter and asked the question why they run the - Stop the chipping campaign, when it was stopped almost a year ago? As I did not get any answer, is there anybody who knows what this really is about, as also R & I picked it up?

Michaela Kiersch wins in Hueco Rock Rodeo with 5 8A and >
Michaela Kiersch, #1 in the Lead ranking game, won the Hueco Rock Rodeo by doing five boulders 8A and harder during one day. Highlights were two 8A+'; Barefoot on Sacred Ground and Tequila Sunrise. Once they are logged, she will advance to #5 in the Boulder ranking game. Merrickales 1. Michaela Kirsch 6 870 - Keenan Takahashi 7 290 2. Alex Puccio 6 630 - Sam Davis 7 050 3. Paige Claasen 5 910 - Thilo Schrรถter 6 990 Complete results

Memory is Parallax 8B+ by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus reports on Insta that she has done Memory is Parallax 8B+ in RMNP which is a 3-star line where the crux revolves around two knee drops. Isabelle is the new #1 in the ranking game and she will be #45 among the males ones it has been recorded. In the history of 8a, only Alec Puccio has had a higher female score but with one more 8B+ by Isa, she is the #1 All Time. "I tried really hard and found the right beta, it took probably ten sessions maybe more. The key was this new foot sequence I found, makes one move a bit harder but sets me up really well for the ending. Finding that beta definitely made it all click together. In a month I go to Swiss and then Africa this summer again. I wanna try hard and have fun!"