20 February 2019
Piotr Schab towards the top with 3 rest days a week
Piotr Schab did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) when he was 16 years old and his first 9a+, Papichulo when he was 19 years old. In 2018, he did four 9a+' and last week he did one more, La Rambla. (c) Pablo Benedito
"The biggest goal of the year is to climb a 9b. Iโd love to go back to Fight or Flight. Now itโs time to train again and the plan is to make a month long Catalan trip again in April. Hopefully Iโll be ready to try hard then and the conditions will make the efforts possible. If not Iโll switch again to my favorite style, onsighting and quick redpoints. There are still a lot of routes in a 9a/+ range that are waiting to be climbed. 8c+ onsight is a second big challenge that I look forward to achieve this year.
So please tell us something about training?
This winter I used to do 7 sessions in 4 days a week (3 gym training's included). 21 hours a week, super intense. Now itโll be different - less volume, more intensity so I hope to take a step further.
Do you really mean three rest days a week?
Yes - Neither climbing nor gym 3 days a week. While youโre doing Raw power sessions in a gym I think itโs more efficient. Iโm quite satisfied with the results - in 14 days in Spain I could climb hard 2 days in a row followed by one rest day and it does not happen that often for me.
Piotr finished off his Catalan trip by quickly doing 20 aรฑos despuรฉs 9a and Sin acido clorhidrico 8c+. "They are both are pretty manufactured but the moves and lines create a nice challenge."
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