NEWS

Extrema Cura 8c by Pietro Bassotto (55)
Pietro Bassotto reports on Insta that he has done Extrema Cura in Gravere as his first 8c. Kind of impressive being 55 years old, video. Pietro started to climb more than 30 years ago and in 1989 he was #13 in a Speed World Cup. In 2010, being 47 years old, he did his first 8b+. In the last six months he has done four 8A's and two 8A+'. Lately, he has also done his first 8a onsight. When it comes to comps, nowadays he prefers boulders and last year he won la Tout ร€ Blocs Tab among the veterans. "The reasons for my improvement are basically three: 1. I climb more in comparison to when had small children. 2. I am always very motivated. I am lucky to have a son "Davide" who climbs on 8c+/9a and 8B/+. He pushes me, especially when we train and climb together. 3. I only train the maximum strength to have the stimulus always high. I do pull-ups, I train on the wall of my house and I do Boulder outdoors.

Based on a poll with 300+ unique votes, who will win in Meiringen? 24 % Adam Ondra 18 % Tomoa Narasaki 16 % Jernej Kruder 12 % Jongwon Chon 07 % Jakob Schubert 06 % Alex Megos 15 % Others

Coup De Grรขce 9a by Sean Bailey
Sean Bailey reports on Insta that he has done Coup De Grรขce 9a. "All time dream line." (c) Keenan Takahashi In Meiringen, Sean was #59 and the next weekend he is competing in Speed and Boulder in Moscow.

Janja Garnbret was the only one to do all five boulders and in the other group Kyra Kondie won. Jessica Pilz was #21 and other big name missing the Top-20 semifinal were; Brooke Raboutou #29, Margo Hayes #37 and Ashima Shiraishi #70. Complete results

Ondra superior in the 9a+ stats
99boulders have updated their 9a+ stats and the graph shows how superior Adam Ondra is. In total, their are some 80 male and three female who have done at least one 9a+ or harder. Interestingly, you can then almost divide by four per each grade to get to one 9c in the top of the pyramid. Further more, this factor of 4 continues also on the 9a grade with some 350 guys having done at least one 9a. The most popular 9a+' are La Rambla with 26 ascents, followed by Papichulo 19 and Biographie 17.

The Story... 8C by Leon Fraunholz (18) and Giani Clement
Leon Fraunholz and Giani Clement have both done their first 8C, The story of 2 worlds Cresciao. (c)Felix Hoffman and (c) Hannes Kutza Leon: "Last year I have finished school and since then I am travelling around with my van. In case of that time is not a limited factor while projecting, thats the main reason why I took the decision to try something harder. Since I stopped competing I put my focus on rockclimbing. From that point on I am trying to climb outdoors as much as possible. Giani and I tried Story very often together so it was extra special that we have sent it in the same session, congrats again Giani!" Giani: "I tried the Dagger jan/Feb 2018 and scored after 10 sessions on it at the end of February 2018. In December 2019 I ventured to the sitstart. It took me 12 sessions to link the start moves into the dagger and in total about 35 sessions within 4 months to complete it. I tried the Boulder especially with my friend Martin Keller. Together we worked out the Boulder and motivated each other."

Three Degrees of Separation 9a (+) by Lucien Martinez
Lucien Martinez has made the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's Three Degrees of Separation 9a+ at Cรฉรผse. The name relates to three extreme dynos linking the route. Video of Lucien working the dynos. (c) Jan Novak

Two 8A's by Katie Lamb
Katie Lamb, who recently was #3 in the USA Lead Nationals, has done three 7C+' and two 8A's in Joe's Valley, Prince Of Thieves and Pagan Poetry. (c) Kai Webler "I pushed my personal bar higher by learning the "climb free" mentality from my friends in Joe's Valley last week. To climb free means to let go of expectations, release your inhibitions, attack with calm and with fury, and hold to dreams. To train I use the Moonboard and campus board (speed exercise and pull exercise) 5 times a week, and always am practicing to "climb free". I also use the Mr. Stairmaster machine to strengthen my legs and mind. Climbing free even on the endless stairs!"

Primitivo Stand 8B by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus, who previously has done three 8B+', has done her 19th 8B, Primitivo Stand in Valle Bavona in just two sessions. Isa is the 8A ranking leader. "Amazing line, was hard for me, super psyched. " (c) Hannes Kutza "Iโ€™m not sure whatโ€™s next, back to Colorado in a week. For now Iโ€™m just enjoying my time off, trying hard when I get super psyched on something. But Iโ€™m excited for the alpine season at home and then Africa!"

SINGING ROCK upgraded sport climbing harness ONYX
SINGING ROCK upgraded their collection of sport harnesses. New harness ONYX undertook some changes like thinner webbing, smaller buckles, more durable materials and new color of outer fabric. On all harnesses more durable material is used to reinforce and increase lifetime of tie-in points and it was added rear haul loop with a load capacity 30 kg. The webbing on the leg loops was reduced from 20 to 16 mm extending in the padding of the leg loop to 40 mm. This ensures maximum comfort due to the force distribution over a larger area. Thinner webbing is complemented by a new, narrower Rock & Lock patented stainless steel buckle. Ergonomic construction and flat profile of ONYX harness combines maximum comfort, low weight (335 g) and unlimited movement. The braided gear loops are shaped to facilitate handling and to provide enough space for climbing gear needed at sport crag. ONYX harness is high-end climbing harness for sport routes or wherever you want to climb light.